Adjusting clutch arm pivot

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Posted by 1fststang
1/03/2019 7:45 PM
#1

I am getting ready to install my engine and trans.

My transmission is a tko 600 and using the quick time bell housing.

Any info on how to properly adjust the clutch pivot bolt?  This is the pivot bolt the clutch arm attached to in the bell housing.

thanks for any info. by the way my car was an auto so I don't have an old one to measure.

 
Posted by TKOPerformance
1/04/2019 9:13 AM
#2

What bellhousing and clutch setup are you using? 

 
Posted by josh-kebob
1/04/2019 2:56 PM
#3

The OP states it's a quicktime bell housing......

 
Posted by 1fststang
1/04/2019 3:00 PM
#4

Yes its one of the nice new quick time bell housings and the clutch is a McCleod diaphragm style clutch(part# 75207).

 
Posted by TKOPerformance
1/04/2019 4:27 PM
#5

I would adjust it so that the clutch fork is sitting 90 degrees (perpendicular) off the center of the engine/transmission.  The throwout bearing should be in light contact with the fingers on the pressure plate.  You do not want the TO bearing to compress the p. plate fingers at all though, or you risk the clutch slipping and wearing out prematurely.  BUT, you also do not want any space between the TO bearing and the fingers, or your pedal height will likely be all wrong, and you may not get complete clutch disengagement even with the pedal on the floor. 

 
Posted by Huskinhano
1/05/2019 9:43 AM
#6

I’m basically going to say the exact same as TKO except I would say have the linkage at 90* at mid stroke. The movement of the Z bar vs movement of the clutch linkage is not linear. It operates in a sine wave, the more that angle changes from 90*, the more the rate the Z bar rotates vs movement of the linkage. Try to keep both ends similar just as you would U joints and I think you’ll end up with a smooth operation. On my 66 I used rod ends on my linkage too. You can think of this in terms of a piston, connecting rod and crankshaft. At TDC or slightly past it takes a lot of force on the piston to move the crank X amount of degrees. At half way down where the piston and connecting rod are 90*, it takes a lot less effort to move the crank the same X degrees but more travel.


I'm not a complete idiot.....pieces are missing. Tom
 
Posted by MS
1/05/2019 11:41 PM
#7

Need to know if using cable (PULL type linkage) or MECAHICAL (PUSH linkage)  Setup is totally different for each.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 
Posted by 1fststang
1/06/2019 7:24 AM
#8

I'm using the modern driveline hydraulic clutch set up. The one that uses a regular throw out bearing not the hydraulic throw out bearing style.
 

 
Posted by MS
1/07/2019 10:42 PM
#9

1fststang wrote:

I'm using the modern driveline hydraulic clutch set up. The one that uses a regular throw out bearing not the hydraulic throw out bearing style.
 

 
Ok, is that the push version or pull (pushes from rear) version?


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 
Posted by 1fststang
1/08/2019 7:12 AM
#10

its the push version. I believe this is the one I got.

 


 
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