FYI FORD MustangSteve's Ford Mustang Forum / Work in progress

**Posted by Brents65** 10/08/2018 11:35 AM

It is viper blue metallic pearl. It really pops under the garage light. I can’t wait to see it in the sun!

josh-kebob wrote:
Nice.....what color blue is that?

**Posted by Brents65** 10/12/2018 6:30 PM

At long last my 65 is painted! I have to wait for it to be sanded and buffed out. I am very happy with how it turned out so far.

Last edited by Brents65 (3/04/2019 3:11 AM)

**Posted by MS** 10/12/2018 9:02 PM

Significant progress!!

**Posted by Brents65** 12/27/2018 4:01 PM

Trunk painted, battery box and gas tank in.

**Posted by Brents65** 12/27/2018 4:03 PM

Took the 9” out and had it narrowed. Took 1.75” per side off so I can get 10” wide rims with a standard back space.

Last edited by Brents65 (12/27/2018 5:29 PM)

**Posted by Brents65** 8/13/2019 4:36 PM

making some progress. Sequential tail lights in bumper etc.

**Posted by Brents65** 8/13/2019 4:43 PM

got the engine in for the last time...(I hope).

**Posted by Bolted to Floor** 8/13/2019 10:10 PM

It’s looking like a hot rod. Keep up the good work.

**Posted by Nos681** 4/17/2020 11:16 PM

Brent,

Could you add pictures of tubs and details?
Nice color too.

**Posted by Hakan** 4/18/2020 10:04 AM

**Posted by Brents65** 8/20/2020 7:47 PM

Nos681 wrote:
Brent,

Could you add pictures of tubs and details?
Nice color too.

Pretty bad picture but you get the idea. Drill out all of the spot welds holding the rear seat back to the wheel housing. Drill out all of the spot welds holding the inner wheel housing in. If you want to do this cheap cut a piece of sheet metal 2” wide and about 48” long...(I believe 48”..measure your wheel housing). You will need to remove the trunk spring rods and drill out the spot welds for the trunk lid hinges where the are welded to the housing and remove the trunk lid. Using a zip wheel or a body saw cut the inner wheel housing just to the inside of the seam. Remove it from the car. Try not to cause too much damage because you will be reusing it. Fitting the pieces back in takes a lot of hammer an grinderwork. On the rear frame rail roll the outer edge down. I know most would frown on this but you will be welding the housing back to it so it should be plenty strong. Tack weld the 48” piece or sheet metal in slowly! Fit the liner wheel housing back in place. It is going to be a pain so take your time and line it up as best you can. Hammer and dolly as you tack weld moving around so you don’t put too much heat in any one spot. Keep doing this until you are satisfied they are secure. Next, the front inner bottom of the wheel housing needs to be pie cut and widened. It pinches in on the front inner edge of the rear tire. You will want to remove the rear diff bump stop and relocate that inboard some. Another step is to relocate your leaf springs. I bought a crites kit. It moves the springs inboard 2.5” if I remember right. After this go back through and weld your seat back into place. You will need to trim some metal off the trunk lid hinge bracket and weld that back on. Use plenty of 3m seam sealer to keep the smoke out. A few companies sell the premodern inner wheel housing with the modifications already done. I probably would go that way if I were doing it again. I hope this helps you in some way. Sorry I didn’t respond sooner.i almost never get on this site anymore. Good luck!

**Posted by Brents65** 8/20/2020 7:49 PM

Brents65 wrote:
Nos681 wrote:
Brent,

Could you add pictures of tubs and details?
Nice color too.

Pretty bad picture but you get the idea. Drill out all of the spot welds holding the rear seat back to the wheel housing. Drill out all of the spot welds holding the inner wheel housing in. If you want to do this cheap cut a piece of sheet metal 2” wide and about 48” long...(I believe 48”..measure your wheel housing). You will need to remove the trunk spring rods and drill out the spot welds for the trunk lid hinges where the are welded to the housing and remove the trunk lid. Using a zip wheel or a body saw cut the inner wheel housing just to the inside of the seam. Remove it from the car. Try not to cause too much damage because you will be reusing it. Fitting the pieces back in takes a lot of hammer an grinderwork. On the rear frame rail roll the outer edge down. I know most would frown on this but you will be welding the housing back to it so it should be plenty strong. Tack weld the 48” piece or sheet metal in slowly! Fit the liner wheel housing back in place. It is going to be a pain so take your time and line it up as best you can. Hammer and dolly as you tack weld moving around so you don’t put too much heat in any one spot. Keep doing this until you are satisfied they are secure. Next, the front inner bottom of the wheel housing needs to be pie cut and widened. It pinches in on the front inner edge of the rear tire. You will want to remove the rear diff bump stop and relocate that inboard some. Another step is to relocate your leaf springs. I bought a crites kit. It moves the springs inboard 2.5” if I remember right. After this go back through and weld your seat back into place. You will need to trim some metal off the trunk lid hinge bracket and weld that back on. Use plenty of 3m seam sealer to keep the smoke out. A few companies sell the premodern inner wheel housing with the modifications already done. I probably would go that way if I were doing it again. I hope this helps you in some way. Sorry I didn’t respond sooner.i almost never get on this site anymore. Good luck!