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4/27/2013 7:37 AM  #1


The Quest for new spindles and rack and pinion steering

 
The spindles on my Mustang 1965 V8 were worn out. This came up when installing a new disk brake kit SSBC A120-20.  Spindles are difficult to find and, as I learned from Mustang Steve, they also differs every two/three years and for L6 and V8. So there are spindles for Mustang, 1965/66, 1967/69 en 1970/73, Granada type. Every later period they got a stronger arm.

(photo from  Day Scovel)
http://mustangforums.com/forum/classic-mustangs-tech/333165-tie-rod-ends.html
 

 

My worn out spindles.
 
 

Also a conversion from L6 to V8 needs other, stronger spindles. I found out at the Mustang forum that there is a company CSRP who offers new spindles for different Mustangs. They offer also complete discbrake kits.
 
Dennis from CSRP  www.discbrakeswap.com :
We offer a set that is a reproduction of the Ford service replacement part that was offered after 1970 for use on 65-66 Mustang. It is essentially a 70-73 type spindle except that it has the correct steering and suspension geometry for the 65-66 application. The spindle kit includes the steering knuckle set itself (also called spindle or stub), a set of outer tie rods, and a set of bearings and races. The tie rods are included since the knuckles have a different mount hole size for the tie rods; they are like 70-73 type. The bearings are includes because the knuckle has the larger stub like that on 70-73. The races are included so that the applicable rotor can be retrofitted to work with the larger bearings. There are two outer tie rod sets available, one for manual and the other for power steering applications. See the attachment for a photo of the knuckles.
The cost is $299 + S&H.



So I had a lot of email exchange with Dennis to be sure that these are the right spindles and also could combined (in  the future) with a rack and pinion steering.

 
 
For the time being I will use the bushings of Mustang Steve (TRB-65GR) which will fill in the hole in the spindle arm, so that my old outer end will fit the beefier spindle arm.

TRB-65GR bushings of Mustang Steve
 

Meantime I was still looking for the right rack and pinion steering for my car. After visiting several Mustang fora I came to the conclusion to choose for a Flaming River rack and pinion steering. So again I had a lot of mail with Dennis (CSRP), Mustang Steve Wilkes and Flaming River. Dennis and Steve had a lot of knowledge  and helped me a lot. I was still doubting between the Flaming River rack for standard spindles FR300-65HRNC and Granada spindles FR300KTHRNC. They could differ a lot in sizes, connections. The strange thing was also that the FR300-65HRNC was for standard Mustang spindles. But what standard. There is no standard, every two/three years Ford changed the spindle size. So I had again a lot of email with Flaming River. But nothing what really clears my problem.
So finally during a chat at their website I spoke different guys and found one who could tell me the difference between the two racks. The only difference is that the Granada rack was supplied with outer tie rod ends FR-1603, and the standard not!  The ‘standard’ rack was just connected to the existing sleeve, attached to the outer ends.  So the decision was made and the Granada rack FR300KTHRNC was ordered. That rack should connect the FR-1603 to the CSRP spindles, which accepts the "Granada" tie rod's mount stud.
 



The CSRP 6573 spindles installed. (with the old sleeve and tie rods)


 


The Flaming River cradle with the cut out at the passenger’s side for fit in the headers.

 

During the installation we found out that the headers at the passenger’s side touched the cradle. A little cut out was made to fit. Also there was a gap of 6 mm (1/4 inch) between the cradle and the framerail. A iron plate was made and filled the gap.
 

The iron plate filling up the gap between the framerails and the cradle.






There was also enough space between the Cobra oil pan and the rack.
 
 


The headers give just enough room to connect the u-joint and the double-D.




The FR 1603 outer end, that turns directly on the tie rod thread.
(the yellow tape indicates where the thread ends)















Old situation





New situation with rack and pinion


 

The steering shaft needed to be adjusted too. A few months ago the old hydraulic powersteering was replaced by  an electric powersteering (http://www.ezpowersteering.nl/). After contacting EZ Powersteering  they offered to replace the round steering shaft with a double-D shaft, as a service. But Peter of Katella made the modifications by himself so that the u-joint fits to the shaft.
 



The electric power motor at top with at right the connection to the steering wheel.
Beneath it the column unmodified.
 




The column was shortened and got also a ‘collar’ for stronger floor mount, and got painted.
 


 

The steering shaft (at the bottom right) that connects to the old steering house.
Right top the SSBC dual bowl master cylinder and  (black painted)  booster.
 



The end of the steering shaft was modified into a double-D.
 


 

The rings supplied with the rack (at right) bent when tightening. So stronger rings were used.




Without the header installed.




The shaft installed. (the SSBC brake cylinder, booster need to be installed yet)




The column and shaft were cut off shortly, so that the angle was not sharp and two u-joints were doing the steering job instead of three. There is only 1 mm (0,04 inch) space between  the bearing at the end of the column and the u-joint.


 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So the bottom line is that the CSRP 6573 spindles work together flawless with the Flaming River Rack and Pinion FR300KTHRNC for Granada spindles. This rack is supplied with FR 1603 outer ends that fits on Granada spindles. The other Flaming River racks for standard spindles are supplied without these outer ends. So these racks must be connected to the old outer  ends with the old sleeve.
 
 
 
All the credits for installing and figuring out for the best solutions to Peter Onken from Katella Classics ( http://www.katella.nl)
 
Thanks to:
(Mustang) Steve Wilkes                    http://mustangsteve.com/
Dennis from CSRP                            http://www.discbrakeswap.com/
Roger Reijngoud                               http://www.ezpowersteering.nl/
 

Last edited by RonNL (4/27/2013 7:47 AM)

 

4/27/2013 9:52 AM  #2


Re: The Quest for new spindles and rack and pinion steering

I noticed in your pic #7 & #17 that the tie rods pitch back at ah pretty severe angle ,Is this normal?


It's hard to type "funny"
 

4/27/2013 10:13 AM  #3


Re: The Quest for new spindles and rack and pinion steering

On these pictures below the spindles are connected to the tie rods. Perhaps this view is better.




Last edited by RonNL (4/27/2013 10:43 AM)

     Thread Starter
 

4/28/2013 8:04 PM  #4


Re: The Quest for new spindles and rack and pinion steering

Nice fab/installation job!.

BUT, I see the tie rods are not parallel to the lower control arm.  That will give you bump steer.  How much will only be decided when you drive it.


Original owner - 351w,T-5, 4whl disks, power R&P
 

4/28/2013 8:05 PM  #5


Re: The Quest for new spindles and rack and pinion steering

Nice fab/installation job!.

BUT, I see the tie rods are not parallel to the lower control arm.  That will give you bump steer.  How much will only be decided when you drive it.


Original owner - 351w,T-5, 4whl disks, power R&P
 

4/29/2013 10:12 AM  #6


Re: The Quest for new spindles and rack and pinion steering

What might be the consequences of bumpsteering. Can it cause any harm to the tie rods, r&p steering?
The car wasn't used for months, and as I read somewhere, Cooper tires don't like that. As I drove I could feel that there was some bumping, also on flat roads. The bumping became less, after driving a lot of miles.

What can I do to elimate the bumpsteering. Are there kits for these problems?

I shall make this week some new photo's and will try this at a higher point so that the angle of view is better to see if it's still bad.

     Thread Starter
 

4/29/2013 1:26 PM  #7


Re: The Quest for new spindles and rack and pinion steering

Most of us who have installed r&p steering have done partly to reduce bumpsteer common in our old Mustangs.

Bumpsteer happens when the tire turns in or out when the wheel hits a bump or groove in the street.  That in-out movement makes the car dart back and forth. disconcerting and possibly dangerous.  Normally, the tie rod should be parallel to the lca.  That minimizes bump steer.

Your tie rods appear to be at quite an angle.  Have you driven it this way?  What will happen in a bump where the tire goes up 2-3"?  I'm looking particularly at the first  image.

There are bump steer kits out there.  Flaming River may even sell one.  Basically, the kit lowers the tie rod to get it parallel to the lca.   But try this out before buying one.

Here is my set up.  Manual TCP r&p.  It is a different design, but the same rule holds.  Sorry about the poor shot and all the dirt.  I drive my car a lot and do not even worry about doing a little two-tracking.


Original owner - 351w,T-5, 4whl disks, power R&P
 

4/29/2013 1:47 PM  #8


Re: The Quest for new spindles and rack and pinion steering

Nice write up and nice work, thanks for sharing. Bumpsteer has nothing to do with the tires maybe having flat spots from sitting in the same posistion for a long time, which sounds like what you were feeling on the drive you describe. Bumpsteer is simply an unwanted change of toe-in/out as the suspension travels up/down as a result of the relational geometry of the spindle arc and outer tie-rod end arc throughout the range of travel. This results in the car 'steering itself' regardless of your input. Unmodified stock Mustang suspension has bumpsteer issues. Just looking at your pics there's really no way to say whether you have a bump steer issue or not. I've read that the Flaming River R&P has had bumpsteer issues in the past but also that these may have been rectified in design revisions - the only way to know for sure is to measure the bumpsteer with a simple gauge that you can make or buy.

There's a pretty good article on bumpsteer here: http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/suspension/mufp_0611_bumpsteer_explained/viewall.html

And one here; http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/bump

Baer Trackers are good option for a bumpsteer correction kit if you determine you have a bumpsteer issue.

Here's an example of a bumpsteer guage from Longacre Racing and also the Baer Trackers on the same page.

http://streetortrack.com/Bump-Steer-Gauge-pr-22695.html

Googling will find you how-to's on making your own gauge out of simple materials.

Last edited by McStang (4/29/2013 2:18 PM)


(Pinto!)
 

5/01/2013 9:05 AM  #9


Re: The Quest for new spindles and rack and pinion steering

Here are some pictures of the tierods and arms from a more horizontal view. I took some with the wheels straight, to the right and to the left.
The car is not lowered, only new spindles and a rack and pinion steering.
(Magnum 500 wheel 14x7  Cooper Cobra 235/60xR14)

What's your opninion about the angle of the tie rods and the lower control arm.
Does it need a correction?

Last edited by RonNL (5/01/2013 9:12 AM)

     Thread Starter
 

12/20/2013 8:34 AM  #10


Re: The Quest for new spindles and rack and pinion steering

I did experienced sometimes bumpsteer. The next thing was done to solve this issue on my car.
http://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=2049

     Thread Starter
 

Board footera


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