John, I also have no experience with them .... the one thing I do know, is that the adjustment is a critical part of the setup. Probably for that reason.
If you don't mind the risk of an extra R&R, I'd be very tempted to put it back together, adjust, and try it out.
I'm sure someone with more experience will let you know.

I hope you can get it to Glen Rose .... I'd really like to see it. My 67 390 coupe was Lime Gold originally and will be again.
Also hope that Gary's new 67 390 coupe can make it.
 

I don't know anything about those things but if it comes apart it would be easiest to fix that seal. If not you will need to get a couple of picks (coat hanger pieces) to straighten it out. Look for any nicks tears or gouges. If there are any don't waste your time with it.

I'm interested what MDL has to say.  I had installed a complete setup from them, trans, clutch, flywheel and external slave.  I never liked the clutch it would have a slight chatter at times.

Also had a disengagement problem.  Had to preload the clutch too much.  Well had the clutch 4 yrs, maybe 2-3k miles.  Well found out they had problems when they spec'd the 69-70 master.  They found it needed a .75 bore instead of a .70.

I ended up replacing the clutch with a Centerforce II.  Found out they are not very fond of Centerforce, they claim a hydraulic throwout bearing can interfere with the weights.

I will have to say working with there tech I wasn't exactly happy the way things were handled.   I ended up emailing the owner and will say he handled things above and beyond.  He refunded me the clutch and replaced the master with the new spec'd ons after 4 yrs.

Last edited by Grabber Blu (9/01/2018 12:08 PM)

Rufus68 wrote:

I see you're running a Centerforce pressure plate.  Last November I installed a Centerforce pressure plate in my Jeep Liberty with the hope that it would have a softer pedal force for my wife.  2 months ago I was dropping that transmission again because of a noise from the throwout bearing.  To my surprise that throwout bearing had disintegrated. The diaphragm fingers on that relatively new pressure plate were badly worn so I put in a complete new clutch set.  And I did not put back a Centerforce one.  YMMV

 

Rufus, did it provide the softer pedal you were looking for?
 

What I have learned from this past weekend. The balance of the drive shaft is good.It was a drop off and pick up of the tires at Discount. The two front tires came back with marks for having the balance adjusted. Don’t know how far out of whack they were.  I posted earlier about the one weight on the Centerforce clutch that was hanging just a bit lower than the others. What I didn’t realize till I was about to unbolt the clutch was the ring of weights was off center of the fingers. I was amazed how little force it would take to move the circle of weights around. I would think they should be able to center themselves once the motor started.  Untitled
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MDL shipped the throw out bearing seal kit and a spacer to me that arrived on Thursday. The clutch was sitting on the front porch Friday morning. I ordered a Tilton bearing seal install tool from Summit. It’s the things I don’t know that bit me in the back side. There is a difference in Next day air and Next day Saturday. I missed that with Summit. The bearing and seal tool arrived this morning!! The brother-in-law came over to help put it all back together. Installing the new seal wasn’t too bad. Used air pressure like they said to get the old one out. I took one of the plastic To Go bowls and cut it up to have a collar to slide into the bearing housing. Like the process Dairy Queen and McDonalds uses to make you ice cream treats and keep the sides of the cup clean. Greased the seal up with the supplied lube and used a cut down portion of a paint stick to work it into the grove. Held it in place with the paint stick and worked the plastic back out. The orange wiper ring popped right in.

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There was plenty of thread overlap for adjusting the height of the bearing that the spacer from MDL was not needed with the new McCleod. 

The new mufflers went on too.  

The hardest part of all this was getting the clutch bled. I had pushed all the fluid out master cylinder last week in the parking lot as I kept pushing in the pedal to see if it would heal itself. Using a mighty vac pump from the bottom, I was getting all kinds of air out. What I was not getting was a pedal building pressure. The rear end was sitting lower than the front, so I jacked the back up to be above the front in an effort to release any trapped air.In the end, I held the clutch pedal to the floor with a piece of 2x4. Kept pulling fluid and air out the bottom till it cleared up. Then made sure the reservoir was full and let the clutch pedal up. It sucked the level down in the reservoir. Continuing this process was how I finally got it bled out.With the McCleod, I have a softer pedal than I did with the Centerforce.   

Time for a test drive…… its much improved, but there is still a vibration in the 50 to 75 range. Did not drive faster than that. I think what I was feeling the most was a tire slightly out of balance. The continued vibration is not constant, it changes in amplitude, if that’s the right word. If you put it on a scale from 1 to 10 with 1 being no vibes, then is cycles between 5 and 10. Since I’m driving it to Glenrose on Thursday for the Bash and to get some miles behind me, I drove to to work today. It’s sitting in the rain for the first time in decades.  

 This weeks home work:Drive line angles. My attempt on Saturday failed. One of the guys from another forum posted an app from Tremec for your phone that will calculate a pass or fail reading. Cal it the idiot’s guide to angles. Mine passed 3 out of 4 tries, I guess it’s OK for now. The throw out bearing looks to be in the same position after a 100 miles of driving. I pulled the cross member back out several times for more grinding, its not touching the transmission at the moment. On a test drive, the resonating vibration is greatly reduced, but not gone. Driving 70-80 is not an issue.  I will pull it again today and see if there is any signs of rubbing.  Pulled the wet front carpet section due to a leaking windshield and attempted to seal windshield. Still have to take a look at the back glass.  

The windshield wipers quit last night in mid travel. Turned them off and they eventually parked. Will be looking for a new wiper motor to take with us.

Michael H. wrote:

Check out this post and go to the 3rd from last post.  After chasing a vibration problem for years a $35 counterweight is what finally cured my vibration problems.
http://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=7427
 

 
Thanks for the link. I got the same advice from Steve and Glen too for the dampener. Steve was also kind enough to send me a link to one on eBay yesterday. It should be delivered to the house on Monday.

I did pull the cross member out again a few times on Wednesday. I was still seeing signs of it rubbing the transmission. Each time I did some grinding, I would touch up the paint. Made it easy to see where it was rubbing. There is just a hint of the vibration left that I hope the dampner will get ride of.

Drive it to the Bash today in a Caravan with John Warley, Coupe Daddy, Steve and Glen Buzek, and Daze. It did great in the 60 to 85 range that we ran.