TKO – that is my philosophy also, and like you indicated, I also wasn’t 100% successful.
RTM – you’ve taken on a huge project and it seems to be going quite well.  One can always leave the pathway (like the wiring for an electric fan in the future) for future projects. 

boss347convertible wrote:

That looks identical to my radiator fan set up. The thermostat and controller are identical, but I cannot tell if the fans are made by Spal. My setup has Spal fans and has been in use for at least 17 years. The fans are loud and start and run simultaneously, resulting in a high amp start up and the fans draw a lot of running amps. I am told the new Spal brushless fans have a soft start feature. 

I don't like the temperature probe as it passes through the radiator fins between the tubes. I am going to weld two bungs into the radiator and run two thermostats at different temperatures to mitigate the high start up load and fan noise.

For reference, I used a four row champion radiator for 14 years that developed a pinhole leak (free to a good home). I then installed a Champion three row radiator that does the job; however, my seat of the pants tells me that the fans are running for a longer period of time with the three row radiator.

I took power from the starter (trunk mounted battery), so when hot, my fans would run with the key off. If I restart the car with a hot radiator the fans will run, sometimes making starting difficult. The relays switch off of ground from the thermostat, so I wired a switch to interrupt the thermostat ground to the relay.

For other cars, I have had success treasure hunting at independent Volvo, Ford, Chevy, etc. repair shops. The modern cars have modules that frequently fail, and on many, the modules are not sold independently, leaving a perfectly good shroud, fans and wiring, often with fuses. Sometimes I get them free or pay about $50 for a unit.  Almost all of the units use Spal fans and I have found these oem units to be quieter than my set up. The factory connectors matched the connectors available from Spal-no splicing wires. 
Good luck.
 

I found that Autocoolguy makes one of the best fan contolers out there. Has no prob or relays and  releys on the out going side of the radiator for temp control. Has worked the best for me in my built 65 with AC, stock size 2 core 1" tubes and a 16" black magic ele fan.
 

Cab4word67 wrote:

boss347convertible wrote:

That looks identical to my radiator fan set up. The thermostat and controller are identical, but I cannot tell if the fans are made by Spal. My setup has Spal fans and has been in use for at least 17 years. The fans are loud and start and run simultaneously, resulting in a high amp start up and the fans draw a lot of running amps. I am told the new Spal brushless fans have a soft start feature. 

I don't like the temperature probe as it passes through the radiator fins between the tubes. I am going to weld two bungs into the radiator and run two thermostats at different temperatures to mitigate the high start up load and fan noise.

For reference, I used a four row champion radiator for 14 years that developed a pinhole leak (free to a good home). I then installed a Champion three row radiator that does the job; however, my seat of the pants tells me that the fans are running for a longer period of time with the three row radiator.

I took power from the starter (trunk mounted battery), so when hot, my fans would run with the key off. If I restart the car with a hot radiator the fans will run, sometimes making starting difficult. The relays switch off of ground from the thermostat, so I wired a switch to interrupt the thermostat ground to the relay.

For other cars, I have had success treasure hunting at independent Volvo, Ford, Chevy, etc. repair shops. The modern cars have modules that frequently fail, and on many, the modules are not sold independently, leaving a perfectly good shroud, fans and wiring, often with fuses. Sometimes I get them free or pay about $50 for a unit.  Almost all of the units use Spal fans and I have found these oem units to be quieter than my set up. The factory connectors matched the connectors available from Spal-no splicing wires. 
Good luck.
 

I found that Autocoolguy makes one of the best fan contolers out there. Has no prob or relays and  releys on the out going side of the radiator for temp control. Has worked the best for me in my built 65 with AC, stock size 2 core 1" tubes and a 16" black magic ele fan.
 

Thanks for the reference. I looked at the website and like the system. I like the soft start, thermostat, fail safe mode, ignition switch on, and simplicity of the system. Previously, my concerns centered around a fan control module failing (my system is fused/relays-simply ground the relays in case of failure), but it appears the Autocoolguy system is built to handle the heat and amperage. I will order/install a unit and hope that it proves to be durable and reliable.

I need to remove the cover from the belt tensioner to see how much more clearance I can gain.  I might have to use a fan blade or look into a single electric fan.  I should measure things for a mechanical fan too, it may not clear everything.   lol

TKOPerformance wrote:

I run a SPAL 30102082.  I find it hard to believe there's something it wouldn't keep cool.  I've driven my car on days when it was 100 degrees and it ran 205 even in stop and go traffic.  Regular copper/brass radiator and stock replacement style water pump with a 180 degree t-stat.  I made an aluminum shroud for it that is only about 1.5" deep. 

 
That fan has a thickness of 3.75.  As long as it tapers down as you move to the outside edge then it should clear my tensioner.

TKOPerformance wrote:

Max thickness is at the motor (right in front of the water pump pulley).  The motor sticks out about 3/4" and is about 4" in diameter.  Then the fan tapers from 3" down to 2" at the outside edges.  I also mounted mine dead center, which you don't necessarily have to do.  If tweaking it to one side or the other (or up or down) gains clearance I don't think it would make a difference as far as cooling goes.

 
I’m being lazy but are there pre made aluminum shrouds that fit the 24 inch radiator and a single fan?

RTM wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

Max thickness is at the motor (right in front of the water pump pulley).  The motor sticks out about 3/4" and is about 4" in diameter.  Then the fan tapers from 3" down to 2" at the outside edges.  I also mounted mine dead center, which you don't necessarily have to do.  If tweaking it to one side or the other (or up or down) gains clearance I don't think it would make a difference as far as cooling goes.

 
I’m being lazy but are there pre made aluminum shrouds that fit the 24 inch radiator and a single fan?

Didn't look to be honest.  It took me maybe an hour to make one using some 1/8" aluminum plate and aluminum angle pop riveted together.  Uses factory mounting points. 
 

boss347convertible wrote:

Cab4word67 wrote:

boss347convertible wrote:

That looks identical to my radiator fan set up. The thermostat and controller are identical, but I cannot tell if the fans are made by Spal. My setup has Spal fans and has been in use for at least 17 years. The fans are loud and start and run simultaneously, resulting in a high amp start up and the fans draw a lot of running amps. I am told the new Spal brushless fans have a soft start feature. 

I don't like the temperature probe as it passes through the radiator fins between the tubes. I am going to weld two bungs into the radiator and run two thermostats at different temperatures to mitigate the high start up load and fan noise.

For reference, I used a four row champion radiator for 14 years that developed a pinhole leak (free to a good home). I then installed a Champion three row radiator that does the job; however, my seat of the pants tells me that the fans are running for a longer period of time with the three row radiator.

I took power from the starter (trunk mounted battery), so when hot, my fans would run with the key off. If I restart the car with a hot radiator the fans will run, sometimes making starting difficult. The relays switch off of ground from the thermostat, so I wired a switch to interrupt the thermostat ground to the relay.

For other cars, I have had success treasure hunting at independent Volvo, Ford, Chevy, etc. repair shops. The modern cars have modules that frequently fail, and on many, the modules are not sold independently, leaving a perfectly good shroud, fans and wiring, often with fuses. Sometimes I get them free or pay about $50 for a unit.  Almost all of the units use Spal fans and I have found these oem units to be quieter than my set up. The factory connectors matched the connectors available from Spal-no splicing wires. 
Good luck.
 

I found that Autocoolguy makes one of the best fan contolers out there. Has no prob or relays and  releys on the out going side of the radiator for temp control. Has worked the best for me in my built 65 with AC, stock size 2 core 1" tubes and a 16" black magic ele fan.
 

I spoke with Darryl at Autocoolguy and he is 25 minutes from me. Darryl invited me to pick up a controller, so that is what I will do. He listened to me explain my cooling/battery systems and was very helpful. I was concerned that I would have the same issue on starting: fans running while engaging the starter. Darryl said he hasn't had any complaints or comments on that issue and I think I figured out why.

My thermostat probe is near the bottom of the radiator and registers the radiator temperature at that point. When the car is hot and turned off, on restart, the radiator fluid stays hot enough to trigger the fans for at least 30 minutes. Darryl's thermostat registers from the temperature of the upper radiator hose, which, when the engine is not running, typically has no radiator fluid at that point and should have less heat transfer to the thermostat.

At any rate, I will report my results in a couple of weeks.

    Mine does the same.  Usually as soon as I take off the fans turn off from the air coming through the radiator while driving.   
 

I just used a cardboard template on the radiator to get the size and mount locations.  Found center of that, measured the diameter of the electric fan, used the old nail, string, pencil trick to draw that circle, made sure the fan fit that hole, transferred the template to 1/8" aluminum sheet, and cut it out (jigsaw for the hole).  For the sides I used 1.5"x1.5" aluminum angle cut to length, clamped, drilled, and pop riveted the angles and panel together.  Then some more angle to pick up the mounting points on the radiator (4 feet basically with 2 rivets each).  Then I primed and painted it semi-gloss black.  Its functional simplicity at its best.  I didn't want it to be a focal point of my engine bay.  I wanted it to blend in. 

boss347convertible wrote:

Cab4word67 wrote:

boss347convertible wrote:

That looks identical to my radiator fan set up. The thermostat and controller are identical, but I cannot tell if the fans are made by Spal. My setup has Spal fans and has been in use for at least 17 years. The fans are loud and start and run simultaneously, resulting in a high amp start up and the fans draw a lot of running amps. I am told the new Spal brushless fans have a soft start feature. 

I don't like the temperature probe as it passes through the radiator fins between the tubes. I am going to weld two bungs into the radiator and run two thermostats at different temperatures to mitigate the high start up load and fan noise.

For reference, I used a four row champion radiator for 14 years that developed a pinhole leak (free to a good home). I then installed a Champion three row radiator that does the job; however, my seat of the pants tells me that the fans are running for a longer period of time with the three row radiator.

I took power from the starter (trunk mounted battery), so when hot, my fans would run with the key off. If I restart the car with a hot radiator the fans will run, sometimes making starting difficult. The relays switch off of ground from the thermostat, so I wired a switch to interrupt the thermostat ground to the relay.

For other cars, I have had success treasure hunting at independent Volvo, Ford, Chevy, etc. repair shops. The modern cars have modules that frequently fail, and on many, the modules are not sold independently, leaving a perfectly good shroud, fans and wiring, often with fuses. Sometimes I get them free or pay about $50 for a unit.  Almost all of the units use Spal fans and I have found these oem units to be quieter than my set up. The factory connectors matched the connectors available from Spal-no splicing wires. 
Good luck.
 

I found that Autocoolguy makes one of the best fan contolers out there. Has no prob or relays and  releys on the out going side of the radiator for temp control. Has worked the best for me in my built 65 with AC, stock size 2 core 1" tubes and a 16" black magic ele fan.
 

Thanks for the reference. I looked at the website and like the system. I like the soft start, thermostat, fail safe mode, ignition switch on, and simplicity of the system. Previously, my concerns centered around a fan control module failing (my system is fused/relays-simply ground the relays in case of failure), but it appears the Autocoolguy system is built to handle the heat and amperage. I will order/install a unit and hope that it proves to be durable and reliable.

Im using the 85amp one, it was set up so you can run 2 fans but you gust tie the 2 post together. I got mine from one of us guys here on this forum many a year back because he got rid of his car I belive. I really like it. One thing I notice is cooling has a lot to do with what fan you have. I had a Derilie and had to run my controler at max cool but with my Black Magic sprial twistie formed blade fan I am 2 clicks off max. And thats 80 degs with AC on.
 

Bob, can't seem to get it to post images.  If you want, PM me your email and I'll email them.  Images were too big, I resized them and all the posted was incoherent text. 
 

Last edited by TKOPerformance (4/28/2024 5:35 AM)

I would imagine you could mount the sensor either location so long as the setting is correct.  The upper hose comes out of the engine, so you aren't seeing the effect of the radiator on reducing coolant temp, as you would on the bottom hose.  However, your temperature gauge typically reads engine coolant temperature near the t-stat, so this probably makes sense.