I've tried to clock it many times but it really only wants to go on in one spot. Also. When I have the pitman arm off, the steering wheel turns 5 revolutions lock to lock.  When it's on it turns about 2.5 to the right and one to left off center. I'll keep trying to get the pitman on in a different position I guess.

You have to put the box in the middle (2.5 turns from lock) remove and straighten the steering wheel.

Then adjust tie rods to point wheels straight ahead

Larry

www pic, not my car

I had the EXACT same problem as you.  Pitman arm only goes on one way.  I have my pitman arm below the center link.  I eventually came to the conclusion that there was something wrong with the internals in my box because when the box was centered, there was NO way I could adjust the tie rods to get the spindles both pointing straight, and if I adjusted my tie rods to get the wheels pointing straight with the pitman arm connected to the center link, I was no where near centered on the box travel so my left & right turning radius' were vastly different.  I could hit the steering stop on one side, and the box would not travel far enough so the spindle could hit the steering stop the other side.  I don't have headers, so that was not my issue.  

I drove the car 2 years with the goofy turning radius issues.  This summer the box started binding so I pulled it.  UPS delivered my rebuilt box back to me yesterday from Chockostang (thanks JKB).  I'll give you an update in about a week......  I'm out of town this weekend, or I would be driving it tomorrow.

Last edited by TimC (9/30/2016 8:17 AM)

MS wrote:

I noticed you have the Hedman long tube headers designed for a 351W in a 65/66.  Those headers have a flaw in their design, in that they do not clear the pitman arm.  There is an easy solution, most easily accomplished if the exhaust system is NOT bolted up to the headers.  With the headers bolted to the engine, grab the frame rail of the car with both hands and place a foot on the header collector.  Push the header collector until it moves inward 1/2" to 3/4", or whatever it takes to clear the pitman arm at full steering lock.  That will take care of the header issue.

For the steering, that may or may not fully correct the problem, but it will at least let the steering have full possible travel.

If still off, you need to readjust the tie rods.  Go back to the starting point is easiest to describe, but you might find a shorter path to accomplish the same thing.  With the outer tie rods disconnected, rotate the steering wheel full lock to lock and then note where half way between those points is located and place the steering wheel in that position.
Without moving the steering wheel (which may or may not appear to be pointing straight ahead), position both front wheels where they are parallel and pointing straight forward.  Adjust the tie rods, evenly within their adjusting sleeves, so they slide right in without moving the spindles.  THEN go in and remove the steering wheel and center it.  Then head to the alignment shop, reminding them to get the steering wheel perfectly straight ahead.

Your right with the head mans. That front pipe is exactly in the wrong spot. I will try the suggestion on moving it. And let you know the results.
 

That seemed to work pretty good. I think it will work. I did trim the stop and with the 5ft pry bar was able to get that pipe bent enough for the spindle to come against the stop about the time the pitman arm contacts the header. I think I will try to get a bit more out of it thought.  Moved it about 1/2 inch.  Thank you for the tips!

TimC wrote:

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I'd like to see a view like that of a power steering car!