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Hi guys ,
this t5 swap in my car is becoming a neverending story .
As my driveshaft was too old with little u joints i decided to buy new with right slip yoke and correct u joint.
today i set it up and i cant reallize how can work with so short distance from end of slip yoke and transmission.
wheels are totally extended and travel will be short when i will lift down.
more and more when the rear will bounce and require 1 inch of freeplay
i cant understand if i got to short an axle that is made for t5 swap ...
this pics was taken with suspended wheels ----------------- suggestion welcome !
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I think that looks fine. I've always been told as long as you had at least 1 inch of free play you were ok, and it looks like you have 1.5 inches of free play.
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Michael H. wrote:
I think that looks fine. I've always been told as long as you had at least 1 inch of free play you were ok, and it looks like you have 1.5 inches of free play.
when car will sit down distance will be short and more when bouncing .
when i try without rear spring and differential at max top the slip will go in much more than 1.5 inch
hope will gone right , in other case i will broke the tail trans
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When I had my shaft shorten the guy that did it told me to measure the distance between the yokes with the car on the wheels then add 3/4". That's what I did and it works fine. Look at it this way, if anything yours might be to long, so you can shorten it if need be. Better than being to short.
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BillyC wrote:
When I had my shaft shorten the guy that did it told me to measure the distance between the yokes with the car on the wheels then add 3/4". That's what I did and it works fine. Look at it this way, if anything yours might be to long, so you can shorten it if need be. Better than being to short.
I agree. With the weight of the car on the rear tires I have slightly less than 1 inch of clearance and mine is fine.
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Do you have the engine in yet?
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Rudi wrote:
Do you have the engine in yet?
Yes , the engine is in . .
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BillyC wrote:
When I had my shaft shorten the guy that did it told me to measure the distance between the yokes with the car on the wheels then add 3/4". That's what I did and it works fine. Look at it this way, if anything yours might be to long, so you can shorten it if need be. Better than being to short.
CORRECTION! I meant he I'd to subtract 3/4" from the yoke to yoke measurement. Sorry.
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IF the weight of the car was on the rear wheels, that gap looks about right.
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From what I have researched, I found that with loaded suspension at most you would need is 3/4", unless you have very soft suspension or are driving the vehicle extremely hard.
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