| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
Offline
Hi all and happy new year from italy !
month ago i asked some suggestion about calipers for my 66 fastback disc/drum and later i follow tips and bought a new set of oem calipers . I prefer stay on new instead of refurbished to avoid any kind of issue.
well ...
after set it , purge, and fix the wheel comes blocked....calipers are larger than oem and grind( a lot) inside of rims -
The rims are 14 inch styled steel and with old calipers i had no issue .
I believe no one has this problem because you can easy go with 15 17 or bigger size , ( not me ) i cant .
there is more or less 0.3 inch of difference from old to new .
Seems the only way to use it is to place a shim or spacer between wheel and seat.
i cant grind a rim , and i cant grind a caliper.....
What do you think about it ?
any suggestion is welcome
bye !
Offline
When I put a set of Shelby ten spokes on my 68 with o/e front disks I had to grind some off of the calipers and use a 1/8” wheel spacer. The rims also had to have a portion of unmachined surface to be turned off.
Alessandro, I would not be too concerned if you have to use a thin spacer, and if needed relieve some of the interference from the caliber as long as there is enough material there.
Offline
Thanks Rudi , yes you are right , take some measure and realized that 1\4 is necessary spacer needed..
I think was some ready to fit , but i have changed also disc so .... Some adapters are a must !
Thanks !
Offline
If you decide to grind on the calipers a bit, take a 1/8” drill bit and drill 1/16” deep holes in several locations where you want to grind. Then grind until the holes barely disappear. That is about the only way to measure how deep you are grinding.
I am quite surprised your calipers are different. Where did you buy them. That seems totally unacceptable that a replacement caliper won’t clear OEM wheels.
Offline
MS wrote:
I am quite surprised your calipers are different. Where did you buy them. That seems totally unacceptable that a replacement caliper won’t clear OEM wheels.
I thought this too. Are they Kelsey Hayes (oem) or Kelsey Hayes knockoffs? I know SSBC sells K/H clone
calipers and they fit well with 14" Magnums
Offline
My SSBC calipers cleared OEM 14" steel wheels just fine. They are a 4 piston KH style I believe (though not OEM).
I wouldn't hesitate to use MS's suggestion for grinding the calipers.
Might be worth asking the supplier about it though. I have to agree that a replacement caliper should fit OEM wheels because that's the application for which the calipers were made.
BTW, your English is getting quite good!
Offline
Hi all ,
So this is the story i bought from cj pony parts , and in this days i talk a lot with ( matt) and send some email with pictures of job , like these one is very clear the gap and the angle is making between caliper an disc,
So a spacer is absolutely needed in 1/4 .
Cj pony was absolutely perfect correct and refounds me for whole amount incl shipping !
and are not nuts!
i dont know which calipers are the old ones but dont grind , instead of this new that for clear are wider .
My rims are styled steel 14x 5.5 ( not sure about 5,5) .
The bad thing to be on the other side of ocean is expensive shipping and tax
the good thing is to deal with american people that first think to solve the problem and have a satisfied client . all company i deal with had respect and sometimes like this have a refounds
( that i will use for spacers and bolt )
I will keep great america with my GGGGG .!!!! Hahahah!!!
thanks ! ciao !
Offline
the caliper story is neverending .....
i bought the spacers for all the wheels and more problem are coming out now with the stud that becoming shorter....
now nuts are only 6 thread turn and dont give me enough safe , especially on rear !
that means a new set of stud and bolt for all the wheels.
Now the restoration is going like this " i fix 1 thing and 2 more comes out wrong ! "
But is not finish yet ! the new calipers are bleeding everywhere ,and pics shows from the bolt that keeps caliper toghether , oil is going to rust all that.
Now old and new calipers are at brake shop trying to get one pair good to be used -
i could be unlucky with these couple but like other problems i can see that spare parts quality sometimes is not what i expected .
bye !
Offline
I am sorry for all the trouble you are having with your calipers. That sure looks like a mess, and well below your quality of work on the rest of the car.
My 65GT had some stuck pistons a couple of years ago. I bought replacement calipers from Dennis at CSRP. Outstanding service, and the calipers fit perfect inside my original 14" styled steel wheels. No leaks, no muss, no fuss.
Offline
Finding longer studs for factory style disc brake hubs may be a problem, They are a special shouldered stud that presses into the rotor from the back side. Unlike any other studs I have seen. If you find some, be sure to post the source and part number.
I think your long term happiness would improve to simply get the correct calipers.
Offline
Supposedly, ARP 100-7707 are early ford disc brake studs. Shoulder doesn't look the same.... might still work.
Offline
The knurl length is perfect, but the length under head looks long. I don't think the 3" length is the same, but don't know if will hurt anything. Thanks 50vert.
Edit:
The knurl length on the link to Jegs says it is .800, the ARP site says the knurl length is 1.00. The pic on the ARP sure doesn't look like oem.
Last edited by rpm (1/12/2018 11:50 PM)
Offline
MS wrote:
Finding longer studs for factory style disc brake hubs may be a problem, They are a special shouldered stud that presses into the rotor from the back side. Unlike any other studs I have seen. If you find some, be sure to post the source and part number.
I think your long term happiness would improve to simply get the correct calipers.
Yes i am on your side !
Also if i find right studs , this means more job ... And now that is quite at the end i am Little disturbed to dismantle again .
I hope that brake shop could refurbish the old ones so i can use them without spacers .
Or maybe a different shape of rims with more offset ....
Next week i will know .
Offline
From the photo you can see the difference between oem rotor on the right and aftermarket rotor on the left. The oem rotor is two piece with the parts swaged together. They cannot be separated that I know of.
The top stud is for aftermarket rotors and the other two fit oem rotors. They are not compatible. It took me a long time to find those long studs. I do not remember where I got them. That photo was taken in 2006.
Last edited by lowercasesteve (1/13/2018 3:12 PM)
Offline
That does look a lot like the ARP stud. Thanks Steve
Alessandro, I agree with you and the other Steve on the front brakes ....rebuild your original calipers.
On the rear, get longer studs. What sort of brakes are on the rear?
Offline
50vert wrote:
That does look a lot like the ARP stud. Thanks Steve
Alessandro, I agree with you and the other Steve on the front brakes ....rebuild your original calipers.
On the rear, get longer studs. What sort of brakes are on the rear?
I agree. Rebuild them.
My experience with them is that the main cause of a sticking piston is that the neoprene sealing rings glue themselves to the bore thru heat. Getting them out is a bear. My first pair took over 6 hours! After that I rebuilt them at the very first sign of brake pull. Then it is easy. I finally got a second pair so I could swap them with little or no down time. Just make sure you get a brake piston puller. Eastwood may still sell them.
Offline
50vert wrote:
That does look a lot like the ARP stud. Thanks Steve
Alessandro, I agree with you and the other Steve on the front brakes ....rebuild your original calipers.
On the rear, get longer studs. What sort of brakes are on the rear?
I got drum on rear so much job should be done on axle .
If the shop can rebuild the old ones i dont need any spacers and i will be fine !
Lesson learned !
Offline
lowercasesteve wrote:
50vert wrote:
That does look a lot like the ARP stud. Thanks Steve
Alessandro, I agree with you and the other Steve on the front brakes ....rebuild your original calipers.
On the rear, get longer studs. What sort of brakes are on the rear?I agree. Rebuild them.
My experience with them is that the main cause of a sticking piston is that the neoprene sealing rings glue themselves to the bore thru heat. Getting them out is a bear. My first pair took over 6 hours! After that I rebuilt them at the very first sign of brake pull. Then it is easy. I finally got a second pair so I could swap them with little or no down time. Just make sure you get a brake piston puller. Eastwood may still sell them.
Strange this thing . I never had problems to leave piston from calipers . I always use compress air and woodstick . Pop up in seconds!
Offline
the reply from the brake shop after refurbish the old calipers was " the new calipers were not well surfaced to keep the pressure and were full of debrits inside ."
they used the new pistons gasket and seal to replace , and pressure tested .
now they are in place with no shim and no stud problems .
now the feelin with new pads and drum shoe is that " the car is not braking .... it's slowing "
bye
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |