Yeah, we're probably going to quote it both ways since the grading could put the gravel on par with the asphalt.  Plus chips in my nice new paint job...

In my experience with my last house, asphalt is lower maintenance but not no maintenance.  So there is some cost there, albeit less than gravel.  We're also needing to do some financial engineering and weighing of upfront costs of everything else we want to do, versus costs later down the line.  Essentially, the way the income streams, construction loan sizes, and budgets are working out, we have a finite amount to do the project with.  So $10k now takes directly away from the house or garage.  Whereas higher maintenance fees of several $k throughout the following years is a slightly different account.

We're in  North Carolina, so snow is not much concern.  The lot is wooded, so leaves are the bigger hassle.

Driveway might be approx. 700' - 900'.  So the total cost difference between the two surfaces shakes out to be a pretty large number.    

  

I suppose it all depends on how your particular Mustang is equipped...

How bout....See-Mint?!! I understand money-wise it and A$$-Fault is about equal in price!
6s6

Last edited by 6sally6 (3/22/2018 9:47 PM)

I have gravel at my shop across town and it is a fairly low grade less than 4 %. My biggest problem with it is the water washing it down the hill. I had the road department regrade the shoulder at the top and that helped a lot, but still the water washes the fines down the hill and I have to redistribute every so often. I can't imagine what 10% would be like. I don't have any problem getting up it even in the Mustang or Corvette but keeping it looking decent is a chore.

Ha!  If that was my rig I'd wouldn't be worrying about much.  

TKO - thanks for the tidbits and info.  I may take you up on that offer to run some things by you if I get into a quandary or get suspicious of something.  And definitely going to look into 3 floors as opposed to 2.  Right now the plan is to try and make some areas easily expandable, like the workshop (although don't worry - there will be a workshop.  We are contractually obligated to have one due to an agreement with our architect.  Of course I won't put up much of a fight about that - "No, honey, see we HAVE to have space for a separate painting and varnishing area.  It's in the contract.  Just like the welding hood.").  I have seen some techniques in Africa and Central America where they leave a few feet or rebar sticking out of the top floor so they can add on later on.  Not quite the extent we were looking at, but maybe leave a junction box and duct work to be easily tapped into at the outside wall. Similar with the bedroom side of the house so we can change what might initially be a 2-bedroom into a 4-bedroom.  Anything else structural akin to the rebar sticking out that will make life easier when it comes time? Like maybe some different way to finish off the joists or other structural tie-ins on the outside wall that would be expanded upon?


Good thoughts and observations by all on this.  Nice to have.  My parents' drive is 12 deg. and is barely workable without 4WD.  So maybe around 5 deg, max from that and what others have said.  I'd love to just go asphalt, but the cost difference could easily be $20k.....  A bit Appalachian, but maybe we could look into doing asphalt for the more problem sections that you all have flagged like steeper hills and area prone to washout.  Not ideal, but if it saves $10k that could otherwise be put into the house or filling up that new workshop space... 


(don't take that as a dig against hill folk, my parents live in the foothills and I have respect for them.  It's more of a comment on how they can find creative ways to extend their budget and prioritize and those ways don't always come out to be fit for the front of Homes and Gardens but work just great)

 

Definitely run any plumbing, electric, or ductwork to areas for future expansion.  If the HVAC is too far from the unit a stand alone mini split system (Mitsubishi, etc.) is an option.  They are super efficient.  BUT, they will add about $3,500 to the cost of that future addition. 

Also definitely think through the structural elements.  If you're adding space in the attic, be sure the bottom chord of the trusses are rated for use as a floor.  Its an easy conversation with the truss designer, and its not going to add much in terms of cost now, but it will save a lot of cost down the road.  Typically you will see the bottom chord go from a 2x4 to a 2x6 or 2x8 to properly carry a floor load.  Thinking through future access to that space is also wise.  Spiral staircases are small in footprint, but really hard to move things up.  Setting it up so you can stack another staircase atop the 1st to 2nd floor staircase is a great way to do it. 

If its a basement where you can finish it later make sure the HVAC guys route the ductwork as tight to the joists as possible, and make sure the electric and plumbing is run through the joists instead of fastened to the bottom so you can fasten drywall directly to the underside of the joists without having to fur down or move a bunch of stuff.  I'd also suggest using 9' walls for the basement.  That extra 1' isn't going to add a ton of cost, but it will buy you a lot of head height when you go to finish it off.  An 8' ceiling with a 10" or 12" duct underneath it turns into a 7' ceiling, but with a 9' ceiling you still have 8' under the ductwork.  If the electric panel is in the basement make sure there are a couple unused spaces in it for future use.  If not running a small sub panel down there during construction is a good idea, or at least 2-4 circuits for future use.  If planning on a future basement bathroom be sure to get the plumbing for drains under the slab now.  Having to saw cut the floor later makes a mess and is expensive, or you end up going to an upflush toilet, which just never really looks right (and there's maintenance on the grinder pump).

Some broad strokes, but anything you need just let me know.