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I have damaged the cardboard backing panels where those annoying spring clips go and wondered what you guys have done in a similar situation. I am sure I am not the only one who has the busted up backboard around where the clips go?
The upholstery is good, so I am not sure what you guys do? I guess you can somehow glue it or maybe gaffa tape it?
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You could try reinforcing the area with a layer of fiberglass cloth saturated in resin or epoxy. Make a couple small holes (like 3-16"-1/4" around the repair area to aid adhesion (don't go deep enough to go through the vinyl obviously).
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TKOPerformance wrote:
You could try reinforcing the area with a layer of fiberglass cloth saturated in resin or epoxy. Make a couple small holes (like 3-16"-1/4" around the repair area to aid adhesion (don't go deep enough to go through the vinyl obviously).
Thanks, but I have never played with fiberglass. I would feel a bit out of my league doing this, so I wonder if there is another option?
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Polyester resin can be messy but if you apply some crazy glue on fibre glass cloth to the area and quickly compress between two layers of waxed paper to flatten it, that should get a solid surface that will be durable. You can then file the hole back to its original shape.
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Fiberglass is just a composite; a resin and a material. Anything that can be saturated will work as a material, and anything that will saturate and harden will work as a resin. I've got chunks of leftover composite made from phenolic (canvas and phenyl resin), aramid (Kevlar and I think polyester resin), and a few more. I do some construction work for a company that manufactures stuff from it. Very cool stuff. Some of it is several times stronger than steel, yet lighter than aluminum.
Fiberglass resin is quite easy to work with, though gloves, ventilation, and throw away mixing containers & applicators are a must. For something like this I just apply it with a $0.30 chip brush from Home Depot. The brush allows me to jam it into the fabric to saturate it. Mix in either a cheapie graduated cup (also from Home Depot in the paint aisle), or good resins come with pumps for the hardener and resin (impossible to screw up the mix). Those resins are expensive though, typically sold at good marine stores (West System was something I used A LOT back in the day). They also have about a 20 minute pot life and when they harden they get hot and sometimes expand under the right conditions. Not necessary for something like this, but for repairing boats, jet skis, etc. nothing is better.
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Thanks guys. I am still a bit hesitant about fibreglass, but I will look into it some more. YouTube probably has videos on it.
These backing boards have been a pain for the 25 years that I have owned older vehicles. I wish someone would make the interior panels with a plastic back board.
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I used a hot glue gun and some clamps. Put some plastic rap over the area so it doesn’t stick to the clamp. I used a piece if plywood to enlarge the clamping surface. Of course you’ll need to be extra cautious when you remove the panel the next time.
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FIberglassing is easy. For this application I recommend using cloth, not mat, as cloth will retain it shape and is easier to work for a beginner. Just go the auto parts store and get one of those kits (again the version w/ the cloth). Rough up the surface using some 80 grit. Pre-cut all the cloth pieces so they overlap the damaged sections 1/2" or so all around. Pre-glue any hanging, broken pieces of the original backing board back into place using 5 minute epoxy. Mix up the resin and hardener. Spread some of the resin on the damaged area and then apply the first layer of cloth. Spread a little more resin to the same area and then apply the second piece. You want the cloth saturated so it becomes transparent, but you don't want a lot of extra resin floating up the cloth - less is more here. Optionally cover the repaired area w/ wax paper and a light weight to smooth out the area. Peel off the wax paper in 30 minutes or so, when the resin is mostly cured.
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I'll second the cloth over mat. Mat is really for structural repairs anyway. Cloth is easier to work with. Mat is what the average guy can use to add strength to a repair because we don't have access to a chopped strand gun. Fiberglas is neat stuff, worth learning how to do.
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Drill holes thru the panel and the door and screw it!
Didn't the 64.5/65 Mustangs have screws instead of those darn clips?
I have about 12(I think) stainless screws around the panel screwed to the door.
Workz super!
6sal6
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Ok, I will have to look into the fiberglass. Thanks for the run through on this. Those clips are a real pain. I try to be careful and they usually just tear out the cardboard in chunks It would happen on my other car too.
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6sally6 wrote:
Drill holes thru the panel and the door and screw it!
Didn't the 64.5/65 Mustangs have screws instead of those darn clips?
I have about 12(I think) stainless screws around the panel screwed to the door.
Workz super!
6sal6
Not that I know of. They were the horrible clips.
Do you have a picture of your set up? I am curious about 12 screws and how this would look.
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Yeah, those clips suck. Beauty washer and countersunk screws would have looked good and been MUCH better. Ironically I've yet to have issues with the plastic tree type door panel fasteners used now. I suppose progress is a good thing every once in a while...
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TKOPerformance wrote:
Yeah, those clips suck. Beauty washer and countersunk screws would have looked good and been MUCH better. Ironically I've yet to have issues with the plastic tree type door panel fasteners used now. I suppose progress is a good thing every once in a while...
The thing is the metal clips were way over engineered but it was what they had to work with at the time. They simply are too strong and that results in damage to the panel when it is removed. I've repaired mine with a hot glue gun and it's worked for me but the plastic clips used on newer cars would work great because when you remove them the clip, which is just strong enough, gets damaged instead of the panel.
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I liked the super magnet method of retention posted a while ago.
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I researched them did the magnet way. Used a set of door panel that looked good still but the clips had broken through. It works like a dream. Works so well my neighbor who runs a Hot Rod upholstery shop started using on some of his work. Taking the door panels off is very easy now.
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Here's a link to Mochaman's magnetic door panel retention mod... very cool idea.
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Mochaman wrote:
I researched them did the magnet way. Used a set of door panel that looked good still but the clips had broken through. It works like a dream. Works so well my neighbor who runs a Hot Rod upholstery shop started using on some of his work. Taking the door panels off is very easy now.
I like this idea, what size magnets did you use,and where did you purchase them?
Online!
These are the magnets I used after reading Machoman's how to article. Bought them from Amazon and they work like a charm.
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This magnet method looks interesting. Thanks for posting! Does anyone else have feedback on this method? The original clips are the pits.
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I think its sound. I saw something about the SEMA show a few years back where they were picking the top ten cars brought by various builders and I remember seeing one that used magnets for all the interior panels.
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It works great for me. Panels come off without any issues. Go right back on. My neighbor wishes he knew about this years ago on his hot rod builds.
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I'm getting ready to redo the doors in my car, tired of the crappy roll up windows and general appearance (I actually never painted the metal part of the inside of the doors; its still original paint and showing its age). So the door panels are coming off already anyway. I'm going to do the magnets instead of the clips.
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rpm wrote:
These are the magnets I used after reading Machoman's how to article. Bought them from Amazon and they work like a charm.
rpm - thank you ... another project to accomplish!
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