I've searched but have not found the answer I am looking for and that is can, I install a cobra hydroboost with a Mustang Steve T5 cable conversion?  I bought a used 418 351W stroker and I do not know the specs of the cam.  I would like to just run a vacuum booster but I'm afraid I will not have enough vacuum.  I've tried reaching out to the company that built the engine but they have not returned any of my calls.  What paperwork I have says it's a lopey idle.  

I have the rear 03 cobra brakes but still need to buy the front cobra brakes.  Since I'm using the front and rear cobra brakes.   I figured why not use the HB from the same car and then.  I would 't have to worry about the vacuum.  I still need to purchase the MS brake brackets.

I have the cowl panels removed for replacement and figured now would be a good time to work on the cable conversion and the hydroboost installation.  Still need to buy everything.

 

When I put in the 351w, the stock 289 rad was still in.  I was able to take it to a radiator shop and they moved the opening to the other side.  It worked fine awaiting the new, bigger radiator to be installed.  That works well enough thru the cool days only.

Contact the radiator manufacturer on their construction as some do place baffles internally.  Whether you go PS or DS lower hose, the result will be substantially better than the narrow stocker in the 66.  I have/had a supplemental install thread in the tips and tricks.  I went with the big block radiator which has DS outlet and is thicker than the small block radiators.  There were a cascading series of changes I had to make but it all works now.  All the pictures in the thread are lost to tiny pics.  If you would like the pictures, send me a message with your email address and I'll send them to you.

Welcome to FYIFORD.

The 69 has the lower hose on passenger side. The 70 has it on the driver side. THAT IS PRETTY MUCH THE ONLY DIFFERENCE in the two radiators.

I have a 1970 style 24” Griffin in my 66 and the lower hose is on the driver side.  Your option on a 289 to get the lower hose on the driver side is to convert to a 70 water pump, but that also requires different alternator, power steering and AC brackets, balancer markings, pulleys and timing pointer. In some cases, timing cover is different. Pulley offeet is typically different, and you may have to custom fit some stuff together.  You can get creative to make something work.  If you only have an alternator alone, the 70 water pump swap is fairly easy.  Let us know exactly what you have and we can better advise.  Pics always help.

Some early radiators having both hoses on the same side have a diverter fin in the upper tank that forces water coming in through the upper hose connection over to the opposite side of the tank before it circulates downward to the core.  Not sure if the 69 Griffin version has that feature or not.

I'll rent something fun.  It would be an 8hr drive each way for me.  If I had a spare day to make the trip down and up I'd drive it, but its going to be tight as it is.

Alright! 
What car are you bringing?

The joys of testing newly installed equipment. Gotta love it.

I don't think I'll ever use another Autocr*p radio. Retrosound is a better choice.
My 67 is a radio delete car, and staying that way.
For the vert, I think I'm gunna use one of these conversions on an original radio.
http://garytayman.com/stereo.htm
Just gotta find an original to replace the one I gave away when I fitted the Autocr*p.
Does anyone have a spare? Dead or alive.

IME all of the stuff designed to "custom fit" classics is junk.  Its niche market stuff made overseas that neither sounds good initially nor lasts very long.  If you want quality, dependable sound you have to figure out how to adapt universal stuff to your classic, because the real deal manufacturers just don't build stuff that custom fits anything.  In a '67-'68 its easy enough to just modify the opening in an aftermarket radio bezel to fit a standard DIN sized chassis.  Its trickier in a '65-'66.  You don't want to butcher the dash, but there's other ways.  A custom console with a spot for a head unit for example.

I'm also going to advise using an external amp.  The problem is that the amps inside the radio have to work WAY too hard and they burn out.  I've yet to have an external amp built by a decent manufacturer fail.  Its certainly a bit more work to add one, but its that whole, "How often would you like to do this?" deal.  Personally, when I do a sound system for one of my vehicles I never plan on touching it ever again. 

You probably would think the system in my '67 is overkill, and for some it probably is.  For me its just right.  JBL front components (mids in the kick panels, tweets on the A pillars, x-overs under the dash; all custom mounts), JBL 6x9s in the rear (custom modified aftermarket trap door), Rockford Fosgate 4 channel amp with an x-over and output running to a second Rockford Fosgate amp driving a single JBL 10" sub in the trunk.  Alpine in dash CD head unit.  It took a good deal of work, but it sounds great, and having used quality components I know it will last. 

Yes sir.  Planning on Thursday and Friday at the least.  I'll stay Saturday if I don't have to coach a baseball game, but I won't have that schedule for a little while yet. 

6 years ago when I did the refresh of my 67 Coupe I installed a Custom Autosound USA-230 radio. The front speaker is a Custom Autosound 140W max dual coil that bolted in place of the original speaker in the dash. The rears are some Chinese POS's and are 4 Ohm 200W max units. Speakers are wired directly to the radio; no amp is used. 

It may have worked OK when I installed and tested but I don't remember. It don't work so good now as anything over conversation volume causes the sound to distort.

So for all practical purposes the radio just fills a hole. 

Do any of you have a good experience with the USA-230? While I don't listen to the radio much, it would be nice to listen to Audio Books on the cruise to the Bash.