Daze wrote:

That is a Malwood pedal.  they make a good product and the pedal alone can be had for about $700.  Not a fan of a hydraulic throwout bearing.  You lose the clutch "feel" and if... no check that WHEN the bearing fails the transmission needs to be pulled to replace it.

Yep, everything Day said. Mal's shop is bout 60 miles down the road from me. He does make good stuff.
I'm also not a fan of a hydraulic throwout bearing. I'd be using Day's slave setup.
Cheaper without the bearing.
https://www.malwoodusa.com/hydraulic-under-dash/malwood-usa-1964-1966-mustang-hydraulic-master-cylinder-clutch-pedal-kit-billet-reservoir/

That is a Malwood pedal.  they make a good product and the pedal alone can be had for about $700.  Not a fan of a hydraulic throwout bearing.  You lose the clutch "feel" and if... no check that WHEN the bearing fails the transmission needs to be pulled to replace it.

Just an FYI:
https://americanpowertrain.com/shop/hydraulic-clutch-kits/1964-66-ford-mustang-hydraulic-clutch-conversion-kit-with-underdash-hydraulics-clutch-pedal-for-tkx-tko-t-5-and-magnum-6-speed-t-56/?_gl=1*9uo8w3*_up*MQ..*_ga*MTY2MjQzNDg3NS4xNzQzMjcwODM3*_ga_5BQ73MF81Z*MTc0MzI3MDgzNi4xLjEuMTc0MzI3MDgzNi4wLjAuNzI5ODMxNjk2

Either cam will be a step backwards.  I'm trying to figure out what you're trying to do.  The E cam is a .498/.498 lift cam with 220/220 duration (at 0.050) on a 110 degree LSA.  Basically the E cam was a step up from the stock HO cam where you didn't have to worry about running a valve into a piston, or issues with the EFI.  A single pattern cam for a stock E7TE head was kind of a joke.  The port flow ratio in them was not matched to where a single pattern cam was the best choice.  I think Ford ground them single pattern because it was cheaper.  Basically the E cam was a cheap performance roller cam that gave you a decent bump in power over stock (the B cam was kind of an in between step that most guys just walked right past).  Now, if you ported the heads, or went to an aftermarket head a single pattern cam can actually be the optimum choice, BUT if spending $1,500 or more on a head swap there are better cam choices only costing maybe another $100.  If your cam was chosen in consultation with Howards I would tend to think it was better matched to your engine than an off the shelf Ford Racing cam. 

I purchased a repair plate for that purpose many years ago.  It is not welded in, and used the existing screws to hold it in place. It has held up for about the past 20 years.  Suggest checking with the supply houses to see if it is still available.

So, I got the heater assy rebuilt and installed using MS's trick with the water hoses, which I re-routed over the top of the intake manifold. I then installed the heated air tube and modified the snorkel to clear the cowl support rod (65 convertible specific) and installed the air cleaner assy. I started the engine and let it warm up to operating temp. The heated air valve in the snorkel worked perfectly - wide open when cold and fully closed when warmed up. Also replaced the defroster hose upper flange that was broken, and repaired the broken ground wire on the windshield wiper motor. Everything now works as advertised - got lots of heat and defroster air too.

I did also discover a new issue. Passenger door latch was loose - had  one screw missing. Happened to have the correct screw -  tightened them up and door closes much better - but I do have a crack in the door frame formed across one of the top two screws.

 What is (other than welding) the standard repair for this?

Of course. 😂