FYI FORD - MustangSteve's Ford Mustang Forum
The Internet's Most Knowledgeable Classic Mustang Information
IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT CLASSIC FORD MUSTANGS, YOU HAVE COME TO THE RIGHT PLACE!
MustangSteve has over 30 years of Mustang experience, having owned 30 of them and restored several others. With the help of other Mustangers, this site is dedicated to helping anyone wanting to restore or modify their Mustang.... THERE ARE NO DUMB QUESTIONS!!!!!
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for:
FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events

You are not logged in. Would you like to login or register?

Swap Meet » WTB Modified SBF Roller Motor / T-5Z » 12/13/2017 12:08 AM

Steven M
Replies: 0

Go to post

Looking to go back to a SBF, preferably a N/A 351 based stroker roller motor that runs on pump gas, but I'm open to any modified / streetable roller cam SBFs.

Also looking for a z-spec T-5 (or any with a decent gear set and a 2.95 first gear).  It would be replacing a rebuilt 4.6 DOHC motor and rebuilt TR3650 5-speed that would thus be available for trade in such a deal or for sale otherwise if anybody is interested.

I'm located in Baton Rouge, LA and would prefer not to ship anything, but I'm happy to travel a reasonable distance.  Thanks!

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Hey Steven M, In this pic of your engine did you have to move your » 7/08/2013 10:55 AM

Steven M
Replies: 6

Go to post

Good call MS; thankfully everything seems to be fine in that area.  The clutch and brakes actuate properly and I don't see any deflection of the firewall or the dash / pedal support.  Overall the work quality of the things I can't change very easily (such as the body and MII front suspension) seems to be pretty good. 

My main gripe with decisions made by the PO involve the brakes (see other thread), electrical system (questionable running of wires / mounting the computer in the trunk), and the exhaust being run underneath the rear.  There are a number of other issues with the car but I can attribute these to me buying an unfinished project (P/S at idle is non-existent, A/C compressor making a nasty noise, etc.)

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Questions regarding 9" rear / disc brake install » 7/06/2013 5:07 PM

Steven M
Replies: 10

Go to post

It's been a frustrating weekend on this project.  I got back on Tuesday and waiting for me was a new rear brake kit from Rod & Custom (who manufactered my rear suspension), bearings, seals, and gaskets.  I was able to have a machine shop press everything off / onto the axles on Friday, in hopes of getting the brakes on and the car moving this weekend.  Everything went together well until I tried to bolt the first caliper on.  It's about 1/16th of a inch too far away from the rotor for the outside pad to fit.  The piston is completely retracted so I've either got the wrong parts or I missed something else during installation.




I'm going to email their support team, who has been helpful and responsive thus far.  I may just need to go with a slightly thicker bearing retainer (or other sort of spacer) to move the caliper closer to the rotor.  I used a Jegs bearing retainer which is 3/16th of an inch thick.  I'm not sure if this is thinner than others on the market, but most that I've looked up don't list that dimension.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Hey Steven M, In this pic of your engine did you have to move your » 7/06/2013 4:53 PM

Steven M
Replies: 6

Go to post

My apologies for the late reply; I've been on vacation and out of town working for nearly a month now.

Although I didn't do the conversion and am mainly cleaning up the messes left by the PO, it doesn't appear that it was moved.  It's so tight of a fit it really should have been.  It hasn't presented any issues thus far, however I agree with Rudi that a Ford hydroboost setup would have been a better route.  

 

And as far as the radiator goes, I haven't driven the car since it's gotten hot so I can't comment.  I imagine the car may have cooling issues with the A/C running in 95+ degree heat.  Not that I expect the A/C to work very well as the PO painted the consenser silver.    My plan and budget already include cutting the core support, a larger radiator, and dual electric fans.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Questions regarding 9" rear / disc brake install » 6/10/2013 2:48 PM

Steven M
Replies: 10

Go to post

Sorry guys, been on a cruise with the wife and in-laws.  Between that and the tropical storm that just so happened to be in the gulf at the same time, don't ask.     The good news is that my coupe finally sold to a member of the Baton Rouge Mustang Club; I hope they're able to get it back on the road.

Mochaman:  Thanks for the part numbers.  I was able to get the wheel bearings and axle flange seals.  For the inner seals, I was going to purchase these:  

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BCA0/51098.oap

Do you have a different part number or recommend a different brand?


MustangSteve:  I'll try to upload some pictures of the housing all cleaned up to make sure that you think I'm good to go.  I always appreciate your $.02.  What are your thoughts on bearing retainers?  Most seem to offer a non-continuous plate:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qti-rm-404

Those made me a little nervous so I was looking at these instead:

http://www.cjponyparts.com/rear-axle-bearing-retainer-plate-9/p/RWBR2/

I'm not sure if it's necessary but it seems like it would provide a better seal if nothing else.


UltraStang:  Nice press!  I've been on the lookout for a better press since I bought the Harbor Freight one 10 years ago.  It's worked well enough for small things like control arm bushings and ball joints, but it's lacking for this job.  The working area just isn't big enough and it's not particularly stable to begin with.  Every time a nicer one comes around I'm either too late or they want too much, but the hunt continues...

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Questions regarding 9" rear / disc brake install » 5/24/2013 9:26 PM

Steven M
Replies: 10

Go to post

MustangSteve, I appreciate the advice.  I previously assumed that the bearing was retained on the inner side by the first step in the housing and on the outer side by the axle retainer.  I can clean the housing up but the area between the flange and the first inner step appears to be in good shape, which would be what the bearing would ride on.  Further inside appears to be worn or machined somewhat unevenly, but after looking at the bearing and the retainer I don't think any contact is being made here.  There is a good bit of junk and RTV that may appear to be something else (damage) in the picture.  I may just be confused (or confusing everybody else); I'll clean everything up and try to take a better picture tomorrow. 

I have Rod & Customs rear suspension and bought their rear brake kit to avoid a couple of interference issues (brake hose and e-brake lever) the current calipers have.  Even if it's not the most elegant kit, they guarantee fitment.  I do plan on buying your Mustang II / 13" Cobra brake brackets for the front, however. 

Ultrastang, you're correct that I was only able to partially press the old bearing and retainer off.  I have a cheap press (Harbor Freight 12 ton) and it's not made for something this long.  I started but backed off because I was worried about damaging the axle.  I'll need to find a machine shop in town to handle it for me.  I'd like to buy an appropriate press to replace my existing one, but I'm not sure how much use it would get and I won't have the room until I get rid of my other car.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Questions regarding 9" rear / disc brake install » 5/24/2013 6:52 PM

Steven M
Replies: 10

Go to post

Sorry, one bearing.  I initially mistook the metal spacer / ring (on top of the bearing in the last picture) for a second bearing.  I'm not 100% sure as to what function this serves as it appears to be fixed on the axle and is more than likely responsible for the damage caused.

I didn't pick up on the damage until you said something and I looked further.  Assuming this would require somebody to weld on new ends, it may just be cheaper to replace to housing.  I need new bearings and retainers anyway; I may be able to get out for ~$400 going a route like this:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/220965697289

Does that sound like a good choice?

 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Questions regarding 9" rear / disc brake install » 5/24/2013 10:28 AM

Steven M
Replies: 10

Go to post

I've previously posted about my woes with the disc brake setup installed by the previous owner.  I've purchased a new kit and have some questions that I hope you guys can answer.

(1)  The instructions provided with the new kit assume that you are moving from drum brakes to disc brakes.  The kit I have currently uses an integral bearing retainer and caliper mounting bracket.  The new kit uses what appears to be a stock or standard axle retainer.


Do axle retainers differ or can I just go into Autozone and ask for an axle retainer for a 58-60 full size Ford?

(2) Am I missing a seal in the rear?  After I pulled the axle out only the bare housing was left.  I was under the impression that a seal was supposed to be installed in the housing.  There was a decent amount of RTV on the mounting bracket / axle retainer which may have stopped anything from leaking; I hadn't noticed any drips.



(3) Each axle has two bearings on it.  On the passenger side axle, the larger bearings's P/N is 88128-2RS and the smaller bearing's P/N is R88128.  On the driver side axle, the larger bearings's P/N is 88128 and I don't see a P/N on the smaller bearing.  My question here is are bearings directional?  I'm not sure if I need to order one with P/N 88128 and one with 88128-2RS or if they're the same bearing.

 

Just for your reference, the rear is a non-Torino style big bearing 9 inch with 28 spline axles; the car is a '65 Mustang.  Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.

Swap Meet » 65 Mustang coupe and large parts lot - price reduced » 4/28/2013 3:42 PM

Steven M
Replies: 4

Go to post

Now on Ebay, in case anybody was interested:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190832151560

ETA:  for some reason, every link over a certain length I post ends up jumbled.  The Ebay item number is 190832151560.

Thanks guys.

Swap Meet » 65 Mustang coupe and large parts lot - price reduced » 4/17/2013 4:15 PM

Steven M
Replies: 4

Go to post

The links are now "fixed" (shortened).  It appears that the previous links were valid, however this board doesn't play well with long URLs.  Most of the value here is with the parts, but here are the pictures of the car itself:






Swap Meet » 65 Mustang coupe and large parts lot - price reduced » 4/17/2013 12:02 PM

Steven M
Replies: 4

Go to post

Up for sale is a 1965 A-code Mustang coupe roller, and most of the parts required to finish it. The car is located in Baton Rouge, La. I've reduced the price to $3500 for everything and although I can appreciate somebody not wanting to take everything, I need the space badly and don't have time to sell things individually. If the buyer would arrange shipping of the car, I would be willing to deliver the motors and whatever other parts would fit in my truck and a small landscape trailer. This would need to be within a four hour radius (i.e. ~Houston to ~Pensacola) and only if my gas was covered. I'd like to find all of this a good home and will do what I can to facilitate that.

Please respond here or email questions / comments to steven@doctornetwork.com. Questions about the car or feedback regarding how I'm going about selling it are certainly welcome. If you can't determine everything you need to know from my description or the pictures, please ask. I will give it a day or two here and then post it on Ebay. Thanks!

Pictures of the car are located at http://s494.photobucket.com/user/smercier7/library/Car.  They aren't the best but I can get more specific pictures upon request.

Pictures of the parts are located at http://s494.photobucket.com/user/smercier7/library/Pts

The car currently is a shell with only the front suspension, rear suspension, and doors attached to it. Its panels are straight and undamaged with the following exceptions:

o The engine compartment, floor pan bottoms, and interior dash / firewall area have surface rust from being stripped and never coated.
o The hood has a small dent in the front where the trim bolts to it, below the letters
o The floor pans have two holes below each toe area which were cut out and sheet metal screwed in. A better job should be done with this.
o The cowl was damaged (causing the floor pan issues) and was cut out and removed.
o A couple of small pin holes in the core support near the batter

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » +1 for dual reservoir master cylinders, -1 for the PO » 4/17/2013 11:57 AM

Steven M
Replies: 2

Go to post

I was coming home from work last week and while slowing down for a traffic light, the brake pedal went to the floor.  After my initial moment of panic I was able to pump the brakes and stop safely.  As this car is still new to me and doesn't have a functional e-brake, this mod was a life saver.

Upon inspecting the rear brakes, it appears as if the PO installed a rear brake kit that he should have known would be problematic for multiple reasons. 

(1) The passenger's side hose exits the caliper vertically.  Because this car is significantly lowered the sharp lip of the inner wheel well contacts the brake hose every time the suspension compresses more than 1/2". 

(2) The e-brake lever on the caliper contacted the R&C sway bar, making it impossible to install a functional e-brake.

(3) The e-brake levers were stuck in an actuated position, causing the brakes to drag.  I wasn't sure if this was the rear or the brakes dragging (both were brand new), but now I'm sure it was the brakes.

It's pretty aggravating but a week and a chunk of change later, I'm getting ready to install R&C's brake kit which should have no issues with my setup.  There are a hundred other gremlins I could mention that have me irked at the PO, but I suppose it could be much worse.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » All members of the original forum will need to sign up as new members » 4/17/2013 11:33 AM

Steven M
Replies: 19

Go to post

Replying to this post so that I can include a link in my swap meet post.  I apologize if this violates protocol.  Post #1.

Board footera


REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on.