Still have the original 1965 factory under dash A/C unit that has an exterior in good shape that I'd like to keep and reuse if possible as I think it looks better than most of the aftermarket units...

None of the other A/C parts are still with the car. Is there any straightforward way to purchase and add all of the other equipment, engine bracket, upgrade to r134a, etc. while reusing the original housing? 

Adding in an electric vacuum pump for better operation of my power brake booster and need switched power for part of the install. On a 1965, is it better to use the location at the fuse box (the triple female accessory plug wire), or the post at the back of the ignition switch? I'll add an inline fuse either way. 

Pump is also receiving constant power direct from battery (and has an inline fuse for that wire)

BobE wrote:

mustang6518 wrote:

Turns out it's something to do with the LED bulbs I have in the instrument cluster. When I swap in an incandescent for the ALT light, there's no more flickering. When I pulled it I also noticed a couple of the other LED bulbs were also doing the same flickering, it's just so faint I didn't notice until the bulb and plastic socket were pulled out of the cluster. Now to figure out how to fix these damn LEDs!

LEDs will not work properly in the alternator light circuit, you need to add a relay (BB has a sketch for this).
I've had issues with LED bulbs in the house flicking slightly, and replaced them, that ended the flickering.  I beleive the flickering is due to poor quality manufacturing of the bulbs.  I've had LEDs from "Super Bright LEDs" for my dash lights for the past couple of years w/o any issues.
 

I'm actually using the "Super Bright LEDs" bulbs currently and have very very slight flickering in all of them. I also have the same slight flickering in the special grounded turn signal indicator bulb I bought from vintageleds.com (for instrument cluster with only one turn signal indicator light). It's a mystery 

Turns out it's something to do with the LED bulbs I have in the instrument cluster. When I swap in an incandescent for the ALT light, there's no more flickering. When I pulled it I also noticed a couple of the other LED bulbs were also doing the same flickering, it's just so faint I didn't notice until the bulb and plastic socket were pulled out of the cluster. Now to figure out how to fix these damn LEDs!

BobE wrote:

mustang6518 wrote:

BobE wrote:

​Based on what you've done, change, or adjust, the voltage regulator.
The alternator brushes could be worn down, you would need to identify how many miles is on the unit.  These brushes usually last a very, very long time. 
 

6sally6 wrote:

IF alt is making 13.7 - 14.3 amps that means its do'in its 'thang' sooooo...it must be the voltage regulator (my guess)
Looks like your results shows it won't leave you on the side of the road any time soon(maybe!).
Just eliminate the VR would be my next move.
You don't have points do you?
6sally6

Nope, I don't have points.

Just replaced the old unknown brand voltage regulator this morning with a Motorcraft GR540B and it doesn't seem to have helped. If I rev up and hold it at 2000RPM or above the light stops flickering (used to stop at 3000RPM or above), but otherwise there's no difference from the old voltage regulator. That RPM difference could also just be a fluke. Looks like taking a look at the alternator brushes is the next step?

Would the constant voltage regulator behind the instrument cluster have anything to do with it? I replaced it a couple years ago with one of the new Scott Drake solid state ones, so it should be fine (and the gauges otherwise work well)...

The CVU will have not have any effect on the Alt light.  The light circuit supplies +12v, from the ignition switch, to the field circuit of the alternator.  This allows to alternator to produce power to the vehicle.  The light goes out when the alternator is producing voltage.  As the voltage is the same on both sides of the light, the light goes out.
The alternator brushes could be the problem.  If you have a rebuilder nearby, they may be able to check the entire system.and pinpoint the issue.

Opened up the alternator today and one of the brushes fell apart in pieces -- guessing that was probably the problem. Ordered some new ones, so hopefully that solves this

BobE wrote:

​Based on what you've done, change, or adjust, the voltage regulator.
The alternator brushes could be worn down, you would need to identify how many miles is on the unit.  These brushes usually last a very, very long time. 
 

6sally6 wrote:

IF alt is making 13.7 - 14.3 amps that means its do'in its 'thang' sooooo...it must be the voltage regulator (my guess)
Looks like your results shows it won't leave you on the side of the road any time soon(maybe!).
Just eliminate the VR would be my next move.
You don't have points do you?
6sally6

Nope, I don't have points.

Just replaced the old unknown brand voltage regulator this morning with a Motorcraft GR540B and it doesn't seem to have helped. If I rev up and hold it at 2000RPM or above the light stops flickering (used to stop at 3000RPM or above), but otherwise there's no difference from the old voltage regulator. That RPM difference could also just be a fluke. Looks like taking a look at the alternator brushes is the next step?

Would the constant voltage regulator behind the instrument cluster have anything to do with it? I replaced it a couple years ago with one of the new Scott Drake solid state ones, so it should be fine (and the gauges otherwise work well)...

6sally6 wrote:

To begin with..............was it doing this BEFOREthe silly-noid swao out?
Remove solenoid and sand and clean mounting point. (don't let 'just the mounting screw' do the grounding)
See what happens and report back....we'll finger-it out
6sally6

It started right around the same time as replacing the solenoid - I actually couldn't get the car to start after not running it for a few months, and then it finally started but got hung and wouldn't stop cranking until I disconnected the battery, and replacing the solenoid fixed it. However, now that I can actually start it I get the blinking alternator light while driving. I just tried your suggestion, sanded down to clean metal around the solenoid mounting points, and unfortunately it doesn't seem to have fixed it Any other ideas?

Just did dynamat and 1/2" dynaliner for my whole interior (1/8" in just a couple places), and installed one of the sheet metal dividers for the rear that was also layered with dynamat and dynaliner. Would love to see pics of your setup

Don wrote:

 Research sound blocking.  Mass loaded vinyl blocks low frq and high density foam blocks high freq.

Dynamat is a vibration dampener  that then lowers car induced (from vib) noise .    

Yep, already have Dynamat laid down. Dynaliner is the foam that goes on top of the Dynamat, but it comes in several thicknesses, so trying to figure out the best thickness to buy to still have everything fit when it comes time to put it back together  

Do they have any use? Or safe to plug up?

Was thinking of going Master Series Metal Prep, then Master Series Silver. Is there any need to also do the Master Series AG111 top coat? Or would I be fine with just the 2 layers of MS Silver?

MS wrote:

Many customers have used the CSRP disc brake conversion using the MS power brake system with the revised pedal ratio.

Several forum members have them on their car.

Properly set up, it should provide 2” total pedal travel if everything is perfect.

I am always suspect of rear drum brakes being properly adjusted. A “slight drag” is often described. I prefer to adjust the brakes aa tight as can be done, then back off ten clicks.
A “slight drag” will always be felt before the brakes are tight as there is nothing to center the shoes inside the drum except when the brakes are applied. So you can get drag before adjustment is actually achieved.
IF you have them close, and IF your self-adjusters are in good shape, repeated hard braking WHILE IN REVERSE will allow the self-adjusters to take the slack out of the brake system.

Received the PB-5 kit and installed it today. Didn't get a chance to bleed the brakes yet (planning to do that in the morning), but when I tested the pedal there is a hissing sound that comes from under the dash/at the booster when I depress the brake pedal - is this normal? I didn't have that sound with the previous generic booster so a little worried 

MS wrote:

A bad internal booster valve can cause excessive travel. Through the years we have experience a couple that had to be replaced.

I do wish it was that! The kit maker sent me a replacement booster thinking the same thing - unfortunately no improvement swapping it out (though it's only a 7" booster, not sure how big a difference that makes).Only thing I can guess at this point is somehow air is still in the lines (Motive pressure bleeder coming in the mail to do another bleed), the pedal ratio problem, or bad MC is also an option I guess. How much slack does the new pedal/relocated pin (PB-5/PB-2) generally take out -- do you often run into folks with this much pedal travel trying to fix it?