Only fitting to use a "MUSTANG" Bobcat to do the clearing.
6s6

Wow you guys in Texas got leaves on the trees in December.
If’n I was Mercian I’d move there!
MWOW, build the work shop twice as big as what is planned.

Exciting times ahead. I love the foundation and framing processes of construction. Keep an eye on those knucklehead workers.

Doesn't matter how big you build it; you'll manage to fill it to the brim with crap.  Trust me on this.

What's your planned construction method?  Slab on grade and pole barn framing?  That's what I have and I can give you some tips on how to make it better if you want.  I inherited mine, but had I not, having lived with the way it was built for many years I've observed some simple things that could have been done during construction to make it more livable. 

Go to GarageJournal.com and read their “Flooring” section. A few hours of reading will educate you on what flooring is suitable for garages and what isn’t. All based on real world experience. Spoiler alert: porcelain tile laid by an expert is outstanding. There is even a video of a guy hammering on his tile floor with a two pound hammer to show how tough it is. His garage is a working garage. He is forever rebuilding the engine and car shell on his racing Porsche. It will be time well spent to read the flooring section.

We use a laytex epoxy for industrial applications that holds up very well.  We purchase it through Sherwin Williams. The biggest thing for me is that I've never seen it peel, even when done over old concrete. 

100 amp is enough.  Those mini splits don't draw much, lights draw about nothing, outlets maybe at most 15-17 amps on start up for some tools like a table saw.  The biggest load would probably be an air compressor and a welder running at the same time, but that's unlikely, and even then maybe a 50 amp starting load for both, and the compressor will draw less when running. 

Stucco over wood, ugh, not a fan at all.  You've got to do what you've got to do I suppose, and likely, no offense, you'll be gone by the time problems arise.  Maybe in an environment with less dramatic temperature and humidity swings it will last longer than it does here.  I've torn acres of it off and replaced it with something else.  Best of luck.  Mind all the edges where it abuts dissimilar materials, these need to be sealed well with silicone caulking,  and make sure all the windows and doors have head flashing (a lot of guys think you don't need it with stucco).  It essentially fails from water getting behind it and causing the sheathing to disintegrate.  Hard to completely prevent because its porous.  Honestly, I think I'd try sealing it with something like Thompson's Water Seal once it had fully cured (probably after a month).  A PITA, but an ounce of prevention and all that.  The cost to tear it off an replace it is staggering, and if there's damage it will have a very negative effect on resale value. 
 

Bearing Bob wrote:

Plenty of good ideas can be gleaned from Jack Olsen's 12 Gauge Garage on Garage Jounal. One neat thing about Jack's garage is that it's a low key 2 car garage that uses its space to the max. Another is Jack is a low key guy who doesn't have a six figure shop. I'll let the fact that he's a Porsche guy pass. The bad thing about GJ is that you can spend hours there.

Now I'm stuck reading about someones garage!
 

Bearing Bob wrote:

Plenty of good ideas can be gleaned from Jack Olsen's 12 Gauge Garage on Garage Jounal. One neat thing about Jack's garage is that it's a low key 2 car garage that uses its space to the max. Another is Jack is a low key guy who doesn't have a six figure shop. I'll let the fact that he's a Porsche guy pass. The bad thing about GJ is that you can spend hours there.

Jack is very cool, but I will have to disagree with you about him being low key. He is pretty much the opposite of low key: his toy car is a competitive 911 with a giant wing that he built in his garage, his day job is writing movies, and he completely cleans up the garage and puts everything away after a project. He probably doesn’t know how to play garage tetris. Basically, he is the guy that does everything better than you (and me).

KM wrote:

It's a shame you can't get more amps into the garage,It sounds like a fantastic place but the amps in sound like it won't match load .What about a separate service to the new place?

 
I think 100 will be ok. My current (no pun intended) garage has three 110 volt plugs on the same circuit and one 220 plug for the compressor, plus lighting circuit, plus door opener circuit. Worst case in the new one will be if I am welding and the compressor happens to start up. I have not had any problems so far. My heaviest piece of equipment other than the welder is a hand held grinder.

Raymond_B wrote:

Hornman wrote:

Raymond_B wrote:

Ah Garage Journal, where I go to turn green with envy

As far as flooring goes, I have been looking hard at Racedeck. even have a discount for GJ members.
 

I have Racedeck in the garage where my wife parks her cars. It works well in that usage and you can get your favorite colors. However, MS is building a working garage so I doubt he will entertain a plastic floor no matter how good looking it is.

Why wouldn't you consider it for a "working" garage?

Mine's definitely a working garage as well, I was looking at Racedeck for the ease of tile replacement and keeping fluids off the surface. 
 

Hazzards of a working garage to polymer flooring (Racedeck and others): floor jacks (deformation), jackstands (point loading), welding slag, and getting chemicals between the polymer floor and the concrete floor.  A standard jackstand has an 1/8” angle iron at each corner which will cold flow right through a vinyl tile, linoleum, or Racedeck. You can modify your jackstand like MS has by welding 1/8” plate to make a solid bottom of the jackstand. Weld slag and hot BB’s will mar the surface to a greater or lesser degree depending on the formulation of the tile. If the welding scars get bad enough to bother you, you can replace they scarred ones. My wife and I put down 900 sq ft in about three hours including cutting the trim tiles on the sides. Painting all the baseboards took longer.

I really like my Racedeck for parking cars, light wrenching, and even washing cars in the garage. I don’t do oil changes in that garage. I have the flow through tiles under the wheels of the cars so rain runoff flows through to the concrete floor and runs between the Racedeck and the concrete to the outside.

Watching the floor decision closely.
I have heard cheap peel & stick tile........when one gets damaged just swap it out!  To concrete paint......to just sealed concrete...on & on.
Race deck looks really cool butt.......what Ron sez makes sense. Plus...what happens when you drop a small screw made of "unobtainium" and it falls....somewhere...under the race deck?
How about a layer of tongue & groove boards in the work area and Race Deck in the "parking area"?
Got a bag of popcorn going right NOW!!!
6sally6

Rudi wrote:

I used a paint on two part light grey epoxy coating on the concrete floor of my shop over 35 years ago. It still looks acceptable today. Mine is definitely a working shop
It has stood up to dropping rear ends and other heavy objects, small spatter burns from countless welding projects and spills of every type of fluid imaginable.
I have considered recoating it but it does not look that bad.

I'm with you, Rudi.  My 2-part epoxy paint has been on for ~25 years.  no peeling; some fading; but plenty of stains from various  auto based liquids - and other garden stuff, too.  clean up is very easy still.