I used MS cable conversion in my 66 Coupe and installed hydroboost.  PM my your email address and I can send you a write up I did on the FYI forum (Electric vacuum pump to assist power brake booster).  When photo bucket changed the photos went away.

Dennis

RTM wrote:

MS why would it be ugly?  I have a 66 coupe..

 
Just my opinion.  All the extra hoses and unusual hardware (for a 66) just do not fit with the classic car.  Again, just my opinion on looks.  Functionally, they work great.

RTM wrote:

I would rather keep it simple with the regular brake booster.  But I am afraid I will not have enough vacuum.

Then go manual brakes. My 69 stops very well with manual brakes.

RTM wrote:

Bearing Bob wrote:

RTM wrote:

I would rather keep it simple with the regular brake booster.  But I am afraid I will not have enough vacuum.

Then go manual brakes. My 69 stops very well with manual brakes.

I would but the wife wants to drive the mustang too.  It will have PS and PB for her to drive and have AC.  My last build was manual steering and manual brakes and was great to drive.  Except for parking lot turns.  lol

Then again I have never driven a manual brake car that has four wheel disk brakes with the fronts being 13 inches and the rear are 12.  Maybe that would stop better than my old manual granada disk brake with stock rear drums?  

Back in the day I drove a 66 Corvair Corsa all over the US with no power anything. Drum brakes all around and that Corvair would stop on a dime.

My mustang was the first car I ever owned with power brakes, factory discs up front too and it stops about the same as my old Corsa; on a dime.

Last edited by RV6 (2/22/2020 5:52 PM)

It is not so much the pedal effort with manual brakes but the excess travel required over and over.  Way back when, you really had nothing better to compare your manual brakes against. Now, the manual is the rarity in a world of power brake cars. Extra pedal travel plus having to push the pedal fairly hard while sitting still makes a big difference in driving effort.  I used to have manual brakes on my 66, but then, I used to pedal a bicycle everywhere I went.

Hornman wrote:

Manual disc brakes take 3-4 times as much pedal pressure as drum brakes. I have had manual four wheel disc brakes and I do not recommend them.
 

3 to 4 times the effort???  Guess I just got lucky.
Please let us know that set up so no one buys it.

Hornman wrote:

RTM wrote:

Bearing Bob wrote:

Then go manual brakes. My 69 stops very well with manual brakes.

I would but the wife wants to drive the mustang too.  It will have PS and PB for her to drive and have AC.  My last build was manual steering and manual brakes and was great to drive.  Except for parking lot turns.  lol

Then again I have never driven a manual brake car that has four wheel disk brakes with the fronts being 13 inches and the rear are 12.  Maybe that would stop better than my old manual granada disk brake with stock rear drums?  

Manual disc brakes take 3-4 times as much pedal pressure as drum brakes. I have had manual four wheel disc brakes and I do not recommend them.
 

Is there a way to change your pedal ratio?
As Bearing Bob mentioned, what system do you have?
For future reference of course.

I just bought 03/04 cobra front brakes with rotors and the hydro boost from someone parting out a cobra.  This will match the rear cobra brakes I bought a while back.   Now I just need to figure out if I want to buy parts or get the car dustless blasted and sealed in epoxy primer.

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josh-kebob wrote:

Have you checked to see if the MS firewall bracket holes align with the booster studs? In your pics, that bracket hasn't been welded to your pedal support yet so, give it a try.

Yes I have, that's the reason for my reply.  I was checking the fit and was about to cut my pedal bracket to weld in the MS plate when I started to check the fit and realized the bolt hole pattern on the MS bracket isn't even close to the stock bolt hole location on my 65/66 brake pedal bracket.  It's also not even close to the Hydro Boost bolt pattern which matches the top bolt holes of the stock bracket!!!!  When I try to fit the MS bracket over the studs on the hydro boost unit the center hole is way off, let alone the bolt hole spacing is off too.  It simple isn't even close enough to use.  I will more than likely have to make my own plate or see how well it works with the stock plate thats on the hydro boost unit and hope it's enough to reinforce the firewall.

To add to the problem of not being able to use the MS PB-2 setup.  The relocating of the stud isn't even close to where it needs to be for the hydro boost set up, not for a stock bolt up set up, which isn't even an option with the stock pedal.  It has to move the opposite direction of where the MS kit wants it to be.  As far as pedal ratio goes, I do not know.  But If I were to relocate the stud per MS instructions my pedal would be even closer to the floor than it is now.  Like I mentioned, I need to move the pedal about a 1/2 inch or so away from the floor.  The push rod from the hydroboost unit appears to be in alignment with the stock stud location on the 65/66 pedal.  Moving the stud down and away will only make the alignment worse by lowering the pedal to the floor and putting the push rod at an angle.

So I'm very happy I did not cut my pedal bracket and weld on the MS plate.  Had I done that, I would have not been using the hydro boost set up.  I would have been using the power brake set up and then hoping I had enough vacuum to run it or buying a new pedal bracket.  I had all my center lines and cut lines laid out when I started to question how it was all going to work together.  I am sure the bracket works great for the power brake set up  but I do not see how it's even close to being useful for the hydro boost set up.  Unless I got the wrong plate but the plate matches the drawing when I overlay it.

For some reason I can not post pictures on here.  The site that host the pictures always asks for permission and I said to not ask again.  Since I clicked not to ask again, I have not been able to post direct pictures to my post.

You are going to need to change your pedal ratio.  With the stock ratio as you have it pictured, and the super boost power of the hydroboost, you can expect to have very touchy, overboosted brakes.  I suggest a 67 power brake pedal and modify the pedal support to raise the brake pedal pivot point 3" higher.

Nos681 wrote:

Is there a different year hydro boost that has same bolt pattern?

Or can the hydro boost plate be reclocked?

I have no clue what years are or if they even have different mounting patterns for different years.  All I know is the MS bracket/plate doesn't match up to my factory mounting holes but on the HB unit the top two mounting studs fit right through the top mounting holes of the stock 65/66 brake pedal support.  Clocking the HB unit will not improve any alignment with any of the mounting holes.  I have tried to clock and rotate the MS plate without even being able to get two holes to line up at all.  

I have a feeling I am not suppose to use the factory HB plate with the MS kit but even then I do not think the MS plate will bolt down to the plate.  I think the center hole is to big but I need to confirm this because I did not look that closely at the option yesterday.