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I have a friend that has a 67 mustang, stock steering under the car, he wants to convert to a manual rack. the car already has elec. power steering. secondly he is wanting to go from drum brake on the front to disc. and the car already has the booster and master cly.just looking for ideas and suggestions as to forward to him.
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Personally I would not convert to rack and pinion steering. I researched it thoroughly and decided to use a Borgeson system instead. If I had it to do over I would probably use EPAS instead. The rack systems almost all increase the turning radius. If he's dead set on manual steering I would get one of the rebuilt manual boxes guys on here rave about. I this is it:
As for discs, there are a lot of options. I would look at what Mustang Steve has. There are a lot of options for brakes, from stock style to later model Mustang stuff in a variety of flavors. Wheel size is important to know in making these decisions.
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I thought about r&p when I went EPAs, too many turn in reduction and clearance issues plus extra cost, without benefits. The only rack I would have considered is the TCP$$$$$$ rack, again it has issues the main one is cost.
Thanks to a very generous members donation of an adapter that goes between a rebuilt steering box from Chockostang to a manual original steering linkage I am very pleased with the whole package.
Can’t help with the front disk since I have O/E fronts and MKVII rears which I am pleased with as well.
Last edited by Rudi (6/27/2020 9:43 AM)
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Wheel size can limit brake choices. What wheels is he running?
I have a power TCP rack on my 66. No issues and it has been on since 2005. 40,000 miles. Immediately noticed bumpsteer was gone. Some turning radius Difference. So, what?
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MS wrote:
Wheel size can limit brake choices. What wheels is he running?
I have a power TCP rack on my 66. No issues and it has been on since 2005. 40,000 miles. Immediately noticed bumpsteer was gone. Some turning radius Difference. So, what?
For me the difference was $2500.00 and no bump steer with the O/E manual steering and EPAS.
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while the car has the elect. power steering, he says the steering wheel has almost 1/4 of turn of play before it responds to actual input,(slack). he doesn't want to attempt to adjust the worm screw in the top of the steering box as he was told tat it might lock it down ( never have heard of that happening).
his car is currently running a 14" wheel and would be interested in a disc brake conversion for tat size wheel.
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val fulesday wrote:
while the car has the elect. power steering, he says the steering wheel has almost 1/4 of turn of play before it responds to actual input,(slack). he doesn't want to attempt to adjust the worm screw in the top of the steering box as he was told tat it might lock it down ( never have heard of that happening).
his car is currently running a 14" wheel and would be interested in a disc brake conversion for tat size wheel.
The screw on top of the steering box is for setting the preload not to meant as a take up slack adjustment.
Sounds to me like the box is worn out and needs to be rebuilt, send it to Chockostang he does top notch work and the box will better than it was when new.
What kind of EPA does he have? All the ones I have knowledge of are direct drive from input to output, no possible way to have play in them.
Check the Pittman arm movement with steering input to see what condition the box is in then look at the tie rod ends, drag link and idler arm.
Last edited by Rudi (6/27/2020 2:24 PM)
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Well......the 'screw on top may be for preload' butt-eye have had many knowledgeable guys say to give it a slight turn to help take some of the "slack" out of the steering.
I did it several years ago and it did improve the .....slack-ed-ness(is that a word? ) of the box. What helped the most...or actually cured my slack-ed-ness (no body said it ain't a word, so it is!!) was pumping it full of grease! That sucker was just about dry!! The header on the driver side is very close to the box.......(I guess that would be 'hot boex-ed-ness'
)?!
Thank you BobC for the grease suggestion! Saved me a pocket full!
6sal6
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First, make sure the slack is really in the box. This could be as simple as a worn out part easily replaced.
Second, the 14" wheels are really going to limit disc selection. I have an SSBC kit on mine, but I don't think they exist any more.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
First, make sure the slack is really in the box. This could be as simple as a worn out part easily replaced.
Second, the 14" wheels are really going to limit disc selection. I have an SSBC kit on mine, but I don't think they exist any more.
A new owner reopened SSBC again last year some time, but I do not know if they are still around. I did find Leed Brakes who have a conversion kit that appears to use the KH calipers. Try them.
I just found this. The new SSBC.
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So the name SSBC is still around, but I've heard nothing about their products for years. That could be bad or good. The original company was founded in '74, but the original owner sold it sometime in the 2010's and things got bad enough that it closed in '19. The current company is owned by an equity company that bought SSBC's assets out of bankruptcy. Typically when the original owner is on longer affiliated with a company like this and its owned by an conglomerate the primary goal shifts to making money instead of building first class products. This is why Scott Drake products are now at best hit or miss. Given such history with other company's I would be really sure that the new products are up to the same quality standards as the old before spending money on them.
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CSRP in Austin sells a nice Kelsey Hays disc kit that fits 14” wheels, as long as the wheels would have fit original discs. A Granada swap would also work quite well on that car. Again, the 14 wheels must be capable of clearing discs. Has to do with center hole size and wheel center configuration. See the MS Granada swap page for details There was a set on the swap meet page than Dan was offering recently.
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It's hard to beat a rebuilt Chockostang box. Dan knows what he's doing, and is cool enough to hang with us at a Bash. My Chocko 16:1 manual box is a pleasure to drive. No slop, good feel and it goes where you want it, when you want it.
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thank you for the replies, I will pass them along. his mechanic should have checked all of this out the last time it was in the shop. BUT the last time it was in the shop was for an unrelated problem. knowing this friend of mine, he most likely said something just before leaving that shop.
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I’m shakin boss!
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I’m going with MS brackets on front and rear with 13” rotors. I’ll be selling my Granada spindles, rotors, calipers and lines this winter. Not sure how much of hurry he’s in. Should fit his 14” wheels. Went to a car show today and everything works great!
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Val,
The link below is the ‘78 Granada spindles I have in swap meet section.
These need through cleaning and I would rebuild calipers.
The car wasn’t wrecked, just non operating.
I also have a set of ‘78 Granada spindles I removed this winter from my ‘65.
I installed these over 25 years ago with Cragars 14x6.5.
I can take pictures of these this evening.
I went back to ‘65 spindles.
Either or for same price plus actual shipping cost.
Last quote I got was near $200-250 for ups shipping to west coast.
Last edited by Nos681 (6/30/2020 11:38 AM)
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I dunno, they look pretty decent to me.
Mikes taste on racks runs about the same as mine.
Last edited by Rudi (7/02/2020 11:36 AM)
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Chock also has disc brake kits for the 14" rims that don't require changing the spindles (
My experience with CSRP is good too. I have a set of their spindles on mine and I am very happy with them.
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josh-kebob wrote:
Personally, I don't care for posts with pics like this. Pretty much borderline on MS rules of forum decency. My two cents...
+1
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Nos681 wrote:
Val,
The link below is the ‘78 Granada spindles I have in swap meet section.
Either or for same price plus actual shipping cost.
Last quote I got was near $200-250 for ups shipping
USPS has a $20 ship anywhere, any e8ight box that fits 2 spindles and 2 hubs.
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Bearing Bob wrote:
Nos681 wrote:
Val,
The link below is the ‘78 Granada spindles I have in swap meet section.
Either or for same price plus actual shipping cost.
Last quote I got was near $200-250 for ups shippingUSPS has a $20 ship anywhere, any e8ight box that fits 2 spindles and 2 hubs.
What boxes are those? I pretty sure you wouldn't get a spindle in there large prepay box.
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Steve69 wrote:
Bearing Bob wrote:
Nos681 wrote:
Val,
The link below is the ‘78 Granada spindles I have in swap meet section.
Either or for same price plus actual shipping cost.
Last quote I got was near $200-250 for ups shippingUSPS has a $20 ship anywhere, any e8ight box that fits 2 spindles and 2 hubs.
What boxes are those? I pretty sure you wouldn't get a spindle in there large prepay box.
Bob
Granada rotors have hubs built into them.
Steve
The price when I mentioned UPS was for 2 boxes without any disassembly.
However, I was able to pack all into 5 boxes for less than $100.
Disassembly is required.
Box 1 = both spindles and caliper brackets
Box 2 = calipers
Box 3 = rotor
Box 4 = rotor
Box 5 = splash shields if desired
Both rotors are near new with all bearings.
Last edited by Nos681 (7/01/2020 4:23 PM)
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