Cool!...........I love altered wheelbase Mustangs!
6sal6

It started to rain so we had to back the trailer into the guys shop who’s sand blasting it.   Luckily he had room to back it inside.   We also agree to not blast the roof.  I’ll strip it with the DA and some 80 grit.   He was concerned it may warp plus I wanted the car dry blasted to prevent having a mess.  Hoping I can pick it up later if the weather permits.   I really want to seal it in epoxy tonight. 





coin flip generator

Be real careful with that DA and 80 grit.  That may be a real good way to warp the top and or flatten the breaks.  I'm a big believer in Aircraft Stripper on sheet metal wherever possible. 

BB1

6sally6 wrote:

Bullet Bob wrote:

Be real careful with that DA and 80 grit.  That may be a real good way to warp the top and or flatten the breaks.  I'm a big believer in Aircraft Stripper on sheet metal wherever possible. 

BB1

 
Yeah...might be a "better idea" (like Ford!)
Put the stripper on and then cover it with plastic is suppose to help it work better.
Then the issue of lead seam sealer around the sail panel should be considered.  Stripper (the can kind not the female kind) is a good idea.
6sal6

 
Already removed all the lead prior to blasting.

You can't buy good paint stripper anymore.  They removed the methylene chloride from it some years back and the stuff they sell now is terrible.  I had to use 3 applications to strip an old interior door for a customer last year, and that was after I tested a couple types and found the one that worked the best.  The old stuff would have stripped it all with one coat.  So I don't know that paint stripper is a viable option for a typical old car anymore.  I think the good stuff may be available to those with the right licensing, but the days of stripping the old jalopy in the driveway seem to have ended. 

I would use plastic media blasting.  My father-in-law has had two cars done this way and both came out great.  No warping, no chemicals that seeped into every seam in the body, and no real blasting residue.

As for skimming the entire car in filler I wondered about that too.  It seems that's what all the high end shops do anymore.  Ultimately once sanded the amount left on the car is incredibly small.  They all claim that if you really want the car perfect that's the only way to do it.  Given that the cost of the paint jobs on these cars is probably worth more than any car I own I can't really argue. 

In my limited experience a DA sander doesn't build a lot of heat if you use the right grit paper for what you are doing.  That said, the concern about body lines is definitely justified.  Single action sanders on the other had are too aggressive and I only use them for dressing welds or material removal. 

Raymond_B wrote:

What media did he use to strip it? Soda or something else? You said dry did he use one of those "dustless" rigs? If so did he put something like Hold Tite or whatever to keep it from flash rusting?

The reason I ask is all those different types of blasting require not only clean up, but in some cases you have to neutralize whatever they put on so you don't have paint problems down the road. You have to be especially careful with Soda.

 
The main body was dry blasted with sand to avoid any messy crap from the dustless blasting.  The fenders and door were dustless blasted and he used ospho.  He also sprayed ospho again to make sure it was covered.  Only because we got caught in the rain. 

I’m very familiar with the use of ospho so I’m pretty comfortable with what and how things were done.  The only problem is I didn’t get to spray epoxy primer after blasting like I wanted to.  Trying to get out of work early so I can go home a seal up body.  I’ll have my son prep the fenders and door before spraying them.

The more I look at my roof, which I hadn’t looked at in over a year or more due to pileing things on top of it.  I may entertain a new roof skin.

We got the car sealed in epoxy primer.  I ran out of mixed primer so I didn’t get the under side of the floor board but every thing else is sealed up including every welded area and seam. We will spray the bottom of the floor pan when we spray the fenders and door.

Very nice!

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. looks like a Mustang II front end going under there!!
LOTSA room under the hood now!
You do that?!
6sal6

Does that use Foxbody motor mounts?   I like the simplicity of the later mounts.

the welds I see look really nice! Your work?
6sally6

Got the fenders cleaned up and sprayed in epoxy primer yesterday.  I also sprayed the insides of the cowl in epoxy primer. I had to take a file and clean up all the sharp edges on the vents from the stamping process.