That’s going to be a nice shop.

that is strange that there isn't a reset button on the motor. could it be under the cover where the wiring hooks up on the pig tail?

Have you tried another circuit? It's rare, but there can be breakers that trip as soon as a load approaches its rating. Most all circuit breakers are designed to allow an overload for a few seconds because motor start-up can draw twice as much amperage as running. 

Is pump hard wired or on a cord? Breaker is a ground fault breaker ? If so on a standard breaker small current imbalance would not trip breaker. I would unhook every thing and check the motor leads to ground with a good one meter ,

Jr. & I moved his 4 post lift twice.  Both times, we removed the hydraulic hose where it attaches on the runway. (we have a cap that threads on the hose end for transport.  We kept the pump/reservoir vertical during both moves, and had no issues.)  If you have a bucket or container of hydraulic oil, you could remove the hose at the lift end, and submerge it in the hydraulic oil and test the pump.  If it pumps when detached from the cylinder, you may have isolated the problem.

PS:  I'm envious of your neighbors.  Got any homes for sale in your subdivision? LOL
 

Last edited by TimC (1/19/2021 2:08 PM)

Steve is there a way to see if the motor will spin free by hand? Is it possible something was in the reservoir could of got jiggled around when moving and jammed the pump. Can you disconnect the motor from the pump and just plug in the motor. Have you tried to plug in some other motor, drill press or something, to see if it trips the breaker. It's all new wiring, someone could have made a mistake. Just a couple thoughts.

Was the pump assembly laid on its side?

Glad to hear it’s working again.

Last edited by Nos681 (1/19/2021 10:01 PM)

Wish everything would fix itself!!! Glad to hear it's working.

It was laid on its side during the move.  Right now it is plugged into a 20a with gfi. Once I round up the parts to wire it in, I have a dedicated 20a box in the ceiling that is not gfi.  It will get hard wired inside a 1/2” weatherproof flex conduit down to the lift.  Why weatherproof?   Because I had a piece left over after installing the HVAC units.
Hopefully the dedicated circuit cures the gremlins.  I used to run it with no issues on a 25’ extension cord plugged into a 15a gfi outlet.

You couldn't put it on the casters and roll it over?  I haven't tried, but I "think" I might be able to get my 4-post to roll out the open garage door.

What is distance from breaker panel to the transformer?

Any issues with HVAC running?
If no issues with HVAC, probably ok.

GFCI’s can be a pain.
At old house, garage door opener was tied into GFCI receptacle by previous owner.

Bearing Bob wrote:

Nos681 wrote:

What is distance from breaker panel to the transformer?

Any issues with HVAC running?
If no issues with HVAC, probably ok.

GFCI’s SUCK!
At old house, garage door opener was tied into GFCI receptacle by previous owner.

Fixed it for you El Tee.

GFCi's don't suck.....they protect us when we ain't smart enough to protect ourselves!! Like the night I was laid down in the drive way washing the under side of the van. It was too dark to see, so the water hose was in one hand and the drop light was in the other. I did try to stay in a dry spot. 

Those GFCI's do have line and load connections on the back. If  you want everything downstream of the GFCI to not be protected, all connections go on the line side.