All I know is most shocks have that front area open in a U shape and list they fit 64-70.

Bilsteen lists different part numbers between 65- and 67+

I looked at some shock tower caps, 67 seem a tad wider with an eye ball look see.


55-R054

1964-66 Mustang Bilstein Street Front Shock 
The Street line of Bilsteins work great with stock spring rates up to 600lbs coils and virtually all leaf spring combos. They will give response, control, and superior handling easily surpassing the best the competition has to offer. These are our most popular Bilstein shocks which are a very nice street, track mix shock.

$99.99/ea          

       
55-R083

1964-66 Mustang Bilstein Sport Front Shock 
The Sport line of Bilstein is designed to work with coils between the spring rates of 500lbs-700lbs coils and virtually all leaf spring combos. These shocks are what the Hard Core Canyon Cruiser's, Auto Crosser's, and Open Tracker's have been looking for.

$129.99/ea          
       
55-R085

1964-66 Mustang Bilstein Race Front Shock 
The Bilstein Race Line of Bilstein is designed to work with spring rates from 700lbs-1000lbs coils and virtually all leaf spring combos. These shocks are not for the faint of heart. The Race Line Bilsteins are for track use. They will allow you to have a shock that will work properly with large spring rates with out spending an arm and a leg.

$159.99/ea          

       
55-R057

1967-70 Mustang Bilstein Street Front Shock 
The Street line of Bilsteins work great with stock spring rates up to 600lbs coils and virtually all leaf spring combos. They will give response, control, and superior handling easily surpassing the best the competition has to offer. These are our most popular Bilstein shocks which are a very nice street, track mix shock.

$99.99/ea          

       
55-R083-1

1967-70 Mustang Bilstein Sport Front Shock 
The Sport line of Bilstein is designed to work with coils between the spring rates of 500lbs-700lbs coils and virtually all leaf spring combos. These shocks are what the Hard Core Canyon Cruiser's, Auto Crosser's, and Open Tracker's have been looking for.

$129.99/ea          

       
55-R185

1967-70 Mustang Bilstein Race Front Shock 
The Bilstein Race Line of Bilstein is designed to work with spring rates from 700lbs-1000lbs coils and virtually all leaf spring combos. These shocks are not for the faint of heart. The Race Line Bilsteins are for track use. They will allow you to have a shock that will work properly with large spring rates with out spending an arm and a leg.

$159.99/ea          

       
55-R056

1964-70 Mustang Bilstein Rear Shock

$99.99/ea          

       

Varishock Bolt-In's 

Last edited by Greg B (8/17/2013 9:44 PM)

Yeah, that looks nowhere near correct.  Dang those shocks look gigantic.

Did you by chance compare them to the shocks on your 69. Don't know anything about them, just curious.

Boxes say they are R054 for 65/66 Mustang.  Somehow they must be the wrong shocks in the boxes.  I will get with the vendor on Monday.

Similar thing happened with some aircraft bolts that I use for my brake kits.  They sent 5/16" bolts in bags marked 3/8" bolts...  TWICE they sent them that way, even after they tried to correct the mistake.

Mine fit Great front and rear.... Just sayin.... 

Hopefully they send you the correct ones steve!!!!

I'm not trying to be a negative Nancy here since, I fully repect the concept of a persons car/vehicle & money are theirs to do as they see fit and for what pleases them. (here comes the 'but monkey'),

But, and this is just my opinion from a by-stander; I think rather than cutting up your fastback to make an engine, transmission, --now shocks, to fit those items, you probably would have been many dollars, time and aggravation ahead to have left the 351W you had in your fastback and instead have put the 427 and TKO in the truck.

There are no shock towers in the truck to have to whittle or hack on and there's plenty of room in the engine bay for that engine and headers that wouldn't have required hacking and cutting to put it there.

In the case of the transmission; most likely, the only floor modification that would have been needed to put the taller TKO in the '66 F100 would been to have obtained a high transmission hump cover from an F100/F150 that had either a C-6 automatic or a T-18 or NP-435 manual transmission.

The F100 transmission crossmember might need relocating (possibly moved back)  but, that would have only been 2-to-4 bolts relocated along the frame.

Speaking of frames, the truck has one. The Mustang doesn't. Old Mustangs have a hard time getting the rear tires to plant and put the power to the ground even with mildy warmed-over engines (many stock engines, for that matter). Add a large cubic inch engine, that has many times more the output over the factory-installed engine, and now a whole series of problems arises. ...limited traction and a lot of torque stress sent throughout the unibody. You would need good sub-frame connectors and really a roll cage too (at least six-point) to stiffen the floppy unibody.

Leaf springs are really not good devices for controlling the torque of a high output engine. This would mean a
4-link and additional rear suspension bracing/stiffening.

Since the truck actually has a full frame under it, it would be far easier to brace/reinforce it and hang a 4-link under it. The rest of it would not have required all that has been required, in the fastback, to put the power plant and transmission into it.

I'm all for somone doing their vehicle as they see fit. If the vehicles had been mine though, I would have put the exotic engine/transmission into a more receptive vehicle with the least amount of chopping and cutting involved.

ultrastang, as it turns out, the 427 with the new JBA headers fits the engine compartment of the Mustang better than the 351 with Hedman headers did.  I did not have to cut the humps on the shock towers to get it to fit, I had to cut them to get rid of some PO percussion engineering work that looked terrible now that the headers have clearance.  Raising the tranny hump was easy once I get my back to quit hurting long enough to work on it.  This all precipitated replacement of right rear floor that PO had fiberglassed in place with pop rivets, and a passenger front floor that had some rust pinholes.  Now everything fits correctly and works as it should and is "ship-shape" under the car.

My plan for the truck is to use it as my daily driver.  It has a near stock 5.0 with Edelbrock heads and headers and an E cam and 3-deuces.  Talk about doing something that is alot of trouble for no apparent gain ...  Three deuces !   But I like the way they look.  If they give me any problems I will cut up a Diet Pepsi can and block off the 2 end carbs abd just run on the center one.  I have no desire for this truck to be a performance vehicle.  Just needs to look good, ride smooth and be able to haul some grass sod and lumber.  I had all those parts laying around with no vehicle to go into, so now they have a home.  If I was smart, I would take the 250 and 4-speed out of the 69 and swap the 5.0 and AOD into the 69.  But I am not that smart.  The truck will never be worth any decent money, but the Mustang will, so my dollar goes to the fastback.

My Mustang has been completely gone through now this year as far as mechanicals.  I have owned it for 20 years (and actually got to drive it for most of those years) and it was time to upgrade.  The car is now a much better car since I had the lift to put it on.  I took my time and did a better job, knowing it is still just a driver.  Hopefully a good one, for the next 20 years or so.  I don't care if it hooks up.  My intent is tire smoke and it won't make much if it hooks up.  And the tranny swap was so I don't blow up a perfectly good T5 in Franklin Tennessee or wherever the next bash is held.  I am perfectly happy with Corky holding the award for most carnage at a bash.

The important thing is not how much work it takes, but rather that it gets finished and gets driven, even if it is not perfect.

MustangSteve wrote:

Tubo wrote:

I will never ever ever again suggest MS use any part on his 2+2, or any other MS mobile

Flex-form Fiberglass Springs, Nyet Fit
Used origional hood, Not good enough
Bilsteins, Nyet Fit.

NEVER I Swear
Tubo

 What's THAT all about?  Wrong side of the bed this morning?

I would not have purchased the glass springs if I did not think they were a good idea. I have not installed them yet because that part can be done AFTER I get the front half of the car working.  Hopefully next week the springs will go on.  What are you talking about nyet fit?  Do you know something about them I don't?

Used original hood... Yeah, that one was a total turd, with a bent frame and hail damage.  I don't think I should be expected to use something on my car that is sub-par and will not fit due to a bent frame on both sides. I was told it was a great hood.  Why are you dragging this through the forum?  Seems more like a private issue.

Bilsteins?  I like the Bilstein shocks.  They seem to be a well-made product.  Just because they sent me some that were in the wrong box is no reason to toss the idea.  The correct set (hopefully) are scheduled to be delivered this Friday.  They did fit better than the Edelbrocks, but that set was not any shorter which would have helped the fit on a lowered car with G/W UCAs.  If not for the GW UCAs, they would fit with an extra 1" of travel.  I do think that is a Global West design problem, moving the shock mount higher 1" than stock, but I bet it all works out just fine.  I have some remote glimmer of hope that the correct shocks for the 65/66 might be a tad shorter than the 67-70 version, but I doubt it.

When I say I bowed to peer pressure and professional pressure to buy Bilsteins, NOBODY said that was a bad thing.  I learn alot from other people.

Ok lets all gather around,, time for a group HUG