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I was concerned about the movement looks like Heim joints....but could see an advantage of being able to remove it when need to remove engine and what are the advantages of the curved vs. straight bar I I know to clear some distributors and air cleaners.
Last edited by BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA (12/31/2021 10:40 AM)
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Heim joints useless in that application, might as well have less expensive clevis and pins if you want easy removal.
Solid is a better option.
I don’t use one, just sayin
Last edited by Rudi (12/31/2021 11:29 AM)
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I've bought a couple of and built a couple of Monte Carlo bars. If the only forces the bar is experiencing is compression, I don't know why the heim end one won't work just fine. Obviously the straight one will be the strongest, but how strong is strong enough? I needed a slightly bent bar to clear the taller Mallory dual point distributor, so I put a 10 degree bend in a piece of 1 inch x .125 wall 4130, welded on left and right tube adapters and used clevis ends.
I've got a hillbilly quick release where after I loosen the jamb nut and twist the bar slightly, the pin comes right out.
I'm pretty sure Mochman uses that same bar BILLY linked. For $125 it's hard to beat.
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Mine is one giant welded together trapezoid that connects the towers to each other and the Cowl. Takes 20 minutes to pull it out. One of the things I find handy about them is they make a nice support to grab on to when leaning into the engine compartment. If nothing else the bar made my carburetor tuning project easier. Sure beats trying to support yourself on a hot engine.
The heim joint ones creep me out a bit, but I see why they are built that way. Far easier to ship, and easy to adjust to fit a 50+ year old car that has had bumps and bruises along the way. Maybe weld one up if you have the fabrication tools handy?
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Why 're-invent' the wheel (or bar!)
Axe yo self......"how many times am I gonna be pull'in-the-engine!?" Twice....once....ever?? (I didn't think so...)
When doing the prep for an "engine pull"....one piece export bar....solid Monte Carlo bar...radiator support w/ radiator..disconnect fuel lines...electrical wires....fight'n with headers!!....etc.
You can see the solid Monte Carlo that Carroll Shelby introduced way back in the early sixties ain't a deal breaker as far as time saved when gett'in ready to 'pull-da-mow-der'!
What an extra 10 minutes.... compared to the heim joint abortion that does work as well as the solid bar??! (and is more expensive!)
6sally6
PS....You know.....you can put a big old snotty camshaft in WITHOUT pulling the 'mow-der!
jUS SAY'IN!
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The way Bearing Bob did it, with the heim joints flat in line with the bar’s center, is the strongest way.
The ones where the heim joint mount is elevated and tightening the joint simply bends whatever the mount is welded or bolted to is the problematic method.
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MS wrote:
The way Bearing Bob did it, with the heim joints flat in line with the bar’s center, is the strongest way.
In Canada we call those clevises
In Texas and Bako the nomenclature may differ.😁
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Rudi wrote:
MS wrote:
The way Bearing Bob did it, with the heim joints flat in line with the bar’s center, is the strongest way.
In Canada we call those clevises
In Texas and Bako the nomenclature may differ.😁
.
Rudi, you are absolutely correct. Clevis, it is.
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One way a Hiem joint would work if it was supported by a mounting tab on either side, but still the last photo from BB is the simplest.
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