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2/22/2022 12:08 AM  #1


96 302 Roller Motor

I have a 96 302 that had 80k miles on it, the piston bores still show cross hatching. Can I remove the main caps to check the bearing wear and then put them back and re-torque the bolts?
Thanks
 


1965 Notchback, 8.8 rear end, T-5, Diy Front Struts, Shelby Drop, Bumpsteer Kit
 

2/22/2022 5:45 AM  #2


Re: 96 302 Roller Motor

First, yes, you can inspect the bearings and if they look good you can just reinstall the main caps and torque them to spec.  I'd check the rods too though because they get oil after the mains.

Second, cross hatch is no indication of bore health.  Every engine I've ever torn down still had cross hatch, even ones that had wiped the rings and had almost no compression.  The only real indicator of cylinder health is a compression test.
 

 

2/22/2022 3:12 PM  #3


Re: 96 302 Roller Motor

Thanks, that good news I'll get started!


1965 Notchback, 8.8 rear end, T-5, Diy Front Struts, Shelby Drop, Bumpsteer Kit
     Thread Starter
 

2/22/2022 3:25 PM  #4


Re: 96 302 Roller Motor

Make sure to at least put a little oil on them when you put them back together.  Assembly lube would be fine too if you have it.  If not clean engine oil is fine. 

 

2/22/2022 7:51 PM  #5


Re: 96 302 Roller Motor

This has always been my policy on “checking bearings”.   If you are going to all the trouble do disassemble and inspect the bearings, why not spend an extra $50 and put new bearings in it?  Same amount of work. Surely the old bearings have SOME wear.
And, just pulling a bearing cap only shows you one half of the bearing. On rod bearings, the part you aren’t inspecting (by just pulling a cap) is the part that will show the most wear.

The bearing size, whether std or .010 or whatever, will be stamped in the back of the bearing.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

2/22/2022 10:47 PM  #6


Re: 96 302 Roller Motor

MS wrote:

.   If you are going to all the trouble do disassemble and inspect the bearings, why not spend an extra $50 and put new bearings in it?  Same amount of work.
.

ditto!
6s6
 


Get busy Liv'in or get busy Die'n....Host of the 2020 Bash at the Beach/The only Bash that got cancelled  )8
 

2/23/2022 5:53 AM  #7


Re: 96 302 Roller Motor

Honestly, I'll go one step farther.  If you're going to the trouble to change bearings, knock the pistons out of it and take the block to the machine shop and get it at least checked.  If it checks out rering it and install new bearings.  You're adding maybe $300 to the job, but increasing peace of mind 100 fold.  I don't ever trust a used engine no mater how good it looks.  My thoughts are I'd rather start with fresh than how ever many miles it already has on it. 

Oh, should go without saying, but install a new oil pump and pickup too.  ARP drivehsaft as well. 
 

 

2/23/2022 2:13 PM  #8


Re: 96 302 Roller Motor

All good points, so I can put back in the stock size bearings including the main bearings and just check with plastigauge? Do the main bearings have a size too?


1965 Notchback, 8.8 rear end, T-5, Diy Front Struts, Shelby Drop, Bumpsteer Kit
     Thread Starter
 

2/23/2022 3:27 PM  #9


Re: 96 302 Roller Motor

Triton wrote:

All good points, so I can put back in the stock size bearings including the main bearings and just check with plastigauge? Do the main bearings have a size too?

Bearings will be marked on the back side either STD (standard), 0.010", or 0.020".  The last two are undersizes to denote the crank has been ground.  You can check with plastigauge, but be aware that its not a terribly accurate means of measuring clearance.  Its best used to check for consistency of clearance, and that there is clearance.  IF its says 0.002" don't bet your life that's the actual clearance if you measured it with a dial bore gauge and a set of good calipers. and did the math. 

 

2/25/2022 10:18 AM  #10


Re: 96 302 Roller Motor

If I pull the pistons to change the rings what is the best brand ring to use and how do I order the size. I know I will they will need to be gapped


1965 Notchback, 8.8 rear end, T-5, Diy Front Struts, Shelby Drop, Bumpsteer Kit
     Thread Starter
 

2/25/2022 10:34 AM  #11


Re: 96 302 Roller Motor

I don't think you can go wrong with the top rings. I recently bought Hastings for my project. I bought .030" over and they were all spot on with .015" clearance. Trust no one, check all your measurements.


Bob. 69 Mach 1, 393W, SMOD Toploader, Armstrong  steering, factory AC.
 

2/25/2022 10:47 AM  #12


Re: 96 302 Roller Motor

IF.......UR going to pull pistons and change rings you need to at least hone the cylinders
Jus say 'in
6sal6


Get busy Liv'in or get busy Die'n....Host of the 2020 Bash at the Beach/The only Bash that got cancelled  )8
 

2/25/2022 12:46 PM  #13


Re: 96 302 Roller Motor

You might as well do this and that and when its all done your buying a 331 stroker rotation assembly and you have $7000 into it....LOL    Im taking a look at Explorer engine tomorrow.  Probably be doing the same thing!

 

2/25/2022 3:47 PM  #14


Re: 96 302 Roller Motor

Ring seal is THE most important thing in any engine.  An engine with carefully selected budget parts and excellent ring seal will always beat the pants off a bunch of fancy, expensive parts on an engine with bad ring seal.  My advice would be if its this far apart take the next step and take it to a machine shop and at least have the bores checked.  Worst case they need to be punched a little and you need new pistons, but the rebuilt engine will give you thousands of miles of solid service.  You can dingle ball hone it and throw rings in it, and if the cylinders are out of round the new rings still won't seal right, it will burn oil, and compression will be all over the place cylinder to cylinder.  All blocks move around from thermal cycling.  After 80+k miles it will have moved, but will be seasoned, and shouldn't move any more.  This is the perfect time to get everything round, straight, and square to build a solid 200k mile engine. 

 

Board footera


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