Thanks, that good news I'll get started!

This has always been my policy on “checking bearings”.   If you are going to all the trouble do disassemble and inspect the bearings, why not spend an extra $50 and put new bearings in it?  Same amount of work. Surely the old bearings have SOME wear.
And, just pulling a bearing cap only shows you one half of the bearing. On rod bearings, the part you aren’t inspecting (by just pulling a cap) is the part that will show the most wear.

The bearing size, whether std or .010 or whatever, will be stamped in the back of the bearing.

Honestly, I'll go one step farther.  If you're going to the trouble to change bearings, knock the pistons out of it and take the block to the machine shop and get it at least checked.  If it checks out rering it and install new bearings.  You're adding maybe $300 to the job, but increasing peace of mind 100 fold.  I don't ever trust a used engine no mater how good it looks.  My thoughts are I'd rather start with fresh than how ever many miles it already has on it. 

Oh, should go without saying, but install a new oil pump and pickup too.  ARP drivehsaft as well. 
 

Triton wrote:

All good points, so I can put back in the stock size bearings including the main bearings and just check with plastigauge? Do the main bearings have a size too?

Bearings will be marked on the back side either STD (standard), 0.010", or 0.020".  The last two are undersizes to denote the crank has been ground.  You can check with plastigauge, but be aware that its not a terribly accurate means of measuring clearance.  Its best used to check for consistency of clearance, and that there is clearance.  IF its says 0.002" don't bet your life that's the actual clearance if you measured it with a dial bore gauge and a set of good calipers. and did the math. 

I don't think you can go wrong with the top rings. I recently bought Hastings for my project. I bought .030" over and they were all spot on with .015" clearance. Trust no one, check all your measurements.

You might as well do this and that and when its all done your buying a 331 stroker rotation assembly and you have $7000 into it....LOL    Im taking a look at Explorer engine tomorrow.  Probably be doing the same thing!