Battery does not need to be relocated.

Two options:
67-70. 20” radiator will bolt in with minimal trimming and four new holes.
67-69 has lower hose on passenger side
70 has lower hose on driver side

67/70 24” clamp-in is best option. Requires more trimming but alot more radiator to cool with.

Depending on your engine, you may get by with something close to your stock radiator as MS says.  However, I am getting by with a stock sized radiator with 4 cores.  No cutting.  Fits the stock mounts.  

When you buy it, you can get the lower opening on whatever side you want.  Any radiator shop can move the opening wherever you want for a small fee.

I have run it thru our deserts at 110 deg successfully, and it has run a lot in LA freeways in stop and go traffic.  It's been there since 1990, so there is history.  I have a warmed over 351w and no A/C, so, you may not want to try it.

Last edited by lowercasesteve (4/03/2022 8:03 PM)

Battery trsy

You can use the original tray with the 24” radiator if you trim off the useless original clamp area. Then the battery will clear the radiator. The battery will fit, but you have to remove two radiator clamp bolts to scoot the radiator 1:2” over to get the battery in/out.  My solution is to use an Optima battery with rounded corners so I did not have to move the rad for access.
With the 20” radiator, no battery mod is needed, nor is any cutting whatsoever. I just prefer to cut the metal that overhangs the new core area to clean things up.

A good battery tray mod, even with original radiators is to use a 67-70 tray TOP and an original 65-66 BOTTOM welded together. That gives you the shorter tray with a really good battery clamping system like used on the. 67-70.  Several Mustang vendors now offer the described battery tray assembly already made for very reasonable price. I take credit for that invention, first used on my 66. Bob’s idea to use a newer type inner fender certainly works but is a ton of work. If you WANT the battery turned 90 degrees, you can percussion engineer the corner so the 67-70 tray will bolt right in. Hammer marks don’t show.

Also not AC hoses must be moved and are a little more challenging to route. Voltage regulator must be moved with the 24” as well.






photoupload

I went with the factory sized rad for my 65 vert. It works fine even with my 347 and Spal electric fan, but I don't live in a hot climate or sit in bumper to bumper to traffic. If I were to do it again, I would modify the core support as Steve suggested and go with the bigger rad just for peace of mind.  I may still do that mod down the road, but I am in no rush because everything is working fine at the moment.

I had some time tonight and have been looking into it and I agree.  I need to go this route.  I will go the 70 radiator route as I like the stock mounting setup.  And no I do not want to revisit this after its built and running.  Maybe part of me just wants to move on and to stop creating more work for myself.  But it will be cheaper and far less work doing it only once.

I should have given more information on my build.   351W stroked to 418, will have AC, PS and hydroboost brakes.  Per the original engine builder its a 500hp setup.  I have since upgraded the heads and some of you may recall that dilemma. 

One question I have is do you need to use the stock T stat housing or can you use the late model one that is 90 degree exit to the intake?  I plan on buying the stock housing for my 66 but in another post it looked like that installation had a later model t stat housing.  

67-70 24” radiator in 65-66

Use the 67-68 lower mounts or just fab your own, use the rubber pads for stock lower mounts. Bottom of rad should be 1/8” above frame crossmember.

Use 67-68 upper mount.  The 69-70 mount is too long.

Yes but can be cantilevered off the front crossmember

With the Shelby valance cooling is increased  'muchly'!
Big radiator....South Florida bigger the better
6sally6