DC wrote:

I would keep bar as high as possible for head height with a Helmet. Have you checked clearance with you and your helmet in the car? 

 
Nope, maybe I’ll get my old bmx helmet and check it.  According to the rules, which clearly I am not following or I would have all straight bars and not the pro street bent style bars.  I would need to even move the main hoop closer to the back of the seat.  Probably should just order my headliner and test fit it as well.

I need to test fit the rear bars to see if they will clear the back window with the main hoop at its current height.  I think I can squeeze the headliner in there and make it work. I can not go any higher with the main hoop.  Not because I already cut it.   There’s no room to go up. 

This car will see the street 99.9% of the time.  I may only see the track once or twice a year.  Because of that, I decided to go more with the pro street look instead of full on NHRA rules. I know this is a topic that ends up like a political question.  I thought long and hard about my options and what I wanted.

IMO, if the bar isn't going to conform to NHRA rules do whatever you want.  Honestly though, its going to come down to your local track.  Some tracks will pull out that rulebook and follow it to the letter.  Others will just say "she's got a 6 point bar you're good".  Some may not even check.  Most times you'll get a pass or two in before they realize you aren't properly equipped anyway.  You can also always run it to mid track and lift, and then run it out the backdoor on your last pass.  Some places also do a street race night where they turn the boards off, and the only person who knows how fast you really ran is you and the booth giving you your slip.  Most of those cars are not NHRA legal anyway, so its wink, wink, nudge, nudge. 

Bearing Bob wrote:

I think my main hoop had ~1 inch clearance to the roof. I would not move the side bar any lower. Are you able to get your feet in easily with the side bars that far forward? I'd use one tack weld per joint, and test fit getting in and out. I love my 1-2-3 blocks. One of the best things ever.

 
I have a few tools left over from my machining days.  I also inherited the wife’s step dads tool & die tools.  I even have his original wooden machinist box he got when he became a tool & die maker.  I keep that in the house. 

I do not have an inch of clearance from my bar to the roof.  That’s why it needs to be lower.   I won’t lower it until I get an idea how everything fits.  I’m going to make sure the wife can get in and out.    If she can then I’ll leave the bar where it’s at.   I will move it forward more so the downward bend matches the seat and not be behind the seat.

TKOPerformance I did not know they had track days like that.  I would be happy with a track day like that.   I really don’t see myself taking it to the track more than once or twice a year.

A buddy suggested I add a brace from the bend in the door bay to the main hoop.  Not sure I need it or it’s worth the trouble.  But it sure does look like it could improve the weak point being the bend.  See red line.

Bearing Bob wrote:

Since triangulation is your friend, I'd do the red line bar.

I will make sure I buy extra tubing.  That will be a tough one to cut correctly.  lol

We haven't met butt........'you-ain't-old-are-ye'?
Getting outta my 66 entail putting one foot on the ground...
putting left hand on rocker panel....sorta roll'in my old/fat/a$$ out....while grunting softly butt...grunting
before putting the OTHER foot on the ground!
Keep that in mind while fitting your roll bars. ( Old-age stiffness happens at different ages butt....it WILL happen.)
Jus say'n
6sally6