I used a 100 amp on the last car was on it 17 years.

Last edited by BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA (5/10/2023 7:21 PM)

I think I would do a early 90s ford taurus or something along those lines.   Something you can pick up at a parts store if needed right away.  

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274515366739?hash=item3fea641353:g:byMAAOSwSZNi1cYu&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0Mpvl0xwknAL3gGsiKYpZj0GwLeQG%2Fb3T%2BsFedV%2BEJxhVGwEoVEW76LXRXpqCfzbCUJVrdjxKSqsduToOGS66NnP8Bi3Mny53Jrm9aLQ6XZ2ag4Swdm5moiWEmqOL6SUqwiwrIhBailHr6NOsThrZUnhw9KixLWkCMTj%2BSSVeUKXaUhE9zvLlglDY1vIzr8%2FEkLs0gfS8AgL%2BS2xXGDZclDiber9vZ71eo71SL6vEEtOni8k%2FzATF5sTn9kCIbB6hXv49otW00vgKH2Yw8YwZk0%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-a8uMOBYg

The one wire and three wire versions are Delco 10si or 12si alternators.   Wiring either one up is fairly simple.   I have Delco alternators on both my Galaxies, and was planning my convertible to have one too.  Anyways, pluses and minuses.  One wire you have to rev your engine to a certain rpm to get a one wire to self energize...not really a big deal just mentioning it.  - you don't get to have an idiot light.  Again not a big deal if you have a voltmeter.

Three wire.  You get an idiot light.   As you know, there are three terminals.  T1 T2  and the bat.  Battery is pretty obvious.  You run that wire to the battery side of the terminal with the proper in line fuse.   T2 could also go here.  Some diagrams show it a short wire right into the battery post on the alternator.  I do not like this.   This wires purpose is to sense voltage drop and energize the alternator to charge; theoretically the farther away its hooked to a positive the better.   Wire T1 is the wire that goes to the light on your dash.   To hook it to your year of Mustang, it needs to have a small resistor soldered in it which I did on my Gal right behind the dash.    Same for a 65 M.

I prefer the 3 wire.   If you Google Delco 10si alternator you can find all the different ways that both of these versions of alternators can be wired in.   

The plastic plug can be had at just about any parts store, or at least used to be able get them.   They are great little alternators.   I have always thought the 3g alternators were overkill for these old cars, unless you have a lot of modern electronics and fuel injection. 

My .02

josh-kebob wrote:

Do you need that chrome alternator to match your chrome thermostat housing....

No chrome thermostat housing on my car ......just the only way I seen these come for the price I was hoping to find one that looked like an original that as a one wire with more amps. The old one seemed to  last and do a good job Steve put me on them back then and I been using the same original type Thermostat housings from his advice too  he use to sell them when he owned Mustangsteve's I must confess I do have a Chrome oil pan on this engine though,

A 3G from a '95-'97 F350 with a 7.5 (460) is a small case with proper clocking for a classic conversion.  You would just need to swap pulleys.  On rock auto they start at $74 for a reman and you can get a 130 amp brand new AC Delco for $123.  As cast aluminum housing for a proper look.  IMO a better option than a GM swap.  Nothing against the 10/12SI, I have several on my Chevy vehicles, but to me its kind of like putting a SBC in a '32 Ford hot rod.  I'd rather keep my Ford a Ford so long as reliability isn't an issue.  I would consider a 3G as reliable as a 10/12SI. 
 

You have to consider that high amp alternators might need a double v belt unless you have serpentine.
My 130 amp 3G did!

https://imgur.com/XmFgHCf

Last edited by Rudi (5/12/2023 6:42 AM)

Well I had my 2nd 3G from EBay " new remaned" alt take a dump. I used the PA Performance conversion kit with the cheap alternator.  Seams to be the cheap version of the built in regulator that fails. Anyway I bought a "new" one alt from PA Performance so I think my problem will finally go away. Short story on these first alt lasted a couple years then started flickering ALT light. Had a 2nd alt from same vender so I put it on and it lasted about 6 months, the regulator on the alt went out. Bought cheap regulator and it lasted 1 month. Put the old flickering regulator in and drove home. Time for new alt. I have a good solid ground wire on the alt too. 

Yes I agree to that, as we are about to find out.

Rudi wrote:

Many times you pay extra for the brand name even though made by communists.

That, sadly, is also true.  I bought a Milodon water pump for the '89 GT thinking it would be a quality part, but noted that there was a GMB pump on Summit and the pictures looked identical.  I ended up ordering both so I could compare them.  The casting numbers, etc. were the same on both pumps.  The only difference was the Milodon one had an anti cavitation plate on the back of the impeller.  The Milodon pump is like $150, the GMB one is $85.  The only difference I could see was $0.50 worth of sheet steel, three tack welds, and the box they came in.  I simply added the plate to the GMB pump, put the Milodon one back in its expensive box, and sent it back.  I noticed the same thing with hydraulic roller lifters.  80 companies sell them, but it seems only 3 actually make them.  The prices however vary wildly. 
 

RTM wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

Rudi wrote:

Many times you pay extra for the brand name even though made by communists.

That, sadly, is also true.  I bought a Milodon water pump for the '89 GT thinking it would be a quality part, but noted that there was a GMB pump on Summit and the pictures looked identical.  I ended up ordering both so I could compare them.  The casting numbers, etc. were the same on both pumps.  The only difference was the Milodon one had an anti cavitation plate on the back of the impeller.  The Milodon pump is like $150, the GMB one is $85.  The only difference I could see was $0.50 worth of sheet steel, three tack welds, and the box they came in.  I simply added the plate to the GMB pump, put the Milodon one back in its expensive box, and sent it back.  I noticed the same thing with hydraulic roller lifters.  80 companies sell them, but it seems only 3 actually make them.  The prices however vary wildly. 
 

 
The cheaper pump could have had a cheaper bearing installed.

 
Seems that no company can be trusted anymore.
Wait  till AI becomes mainstream, you won’t be able to tell what’s real or not.

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10165/10002/-1

I ended up getting this one it has a cut in at 880 rpm and starts charging ...I will throw it on if my old one dont work it was ran on my old car 17 years and may be time for a new one so I got this got a back up