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Pretty sure it’s adjusted well enough. Just had the wife come out and press the clutch pedal so I could see if it released by spinning the rear slip yoke and happy to say it releases and engages when she lets up on the pedal.
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Part of an article from McLeod:
Clutch Selection Confusion: Clearing The Air With Help From McLeod By TODD SILVEY MAY 19, 2022During the muscle car era, performance junkies wanted to dump the clutch on their killer four-speed in their new car. Amid those years, the manual transmission was not exclusive to the hot-rodder. It was the standard option in most cars and was a way of life. Automatic transmissions were a luxury that many did not feel was needed.Now, many enthusiasts want the experience of grabbing gears in their classic, but also want a clutch that doesn’t require enough force to cause leg cramps when holding the pedal. To learn more about clutch design — why some have a harder-to-push pedal than others and selecting the best parts for your need — we reached out to the folks at McLeod to get some insight.
Scheid elaborates, “These two clutches, plus the RXT1200, each use a 9.687-inch diameter clutch with changes in the clutch disc material. This smaller diameter requires less diaphragm pressure. That decrease in pressure gives us an easier pedal, similar to stock. People will call us and say, ‘something’s wrong with my clutch, it’s too easy.’ It’s designed that way, including the RXT1200 that can handle 1,200-horsepower.”
Last edited by KeithP (6/16/2024 11:26 AM)
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Thanks KeithP, I never read up on it other than I knew is was strong enough for my engine and was easy on drivetrain parts when dumping the clutch.
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No clutch is easy on drivetrain parts during a clutch dump. Unless the clutch fails to grip I suppose. When you dump the clutch you are shock loading the drivetrain, which is exactly how drivetrain parts break. Where you may get away with it is on street tires, because the tires will simply spin before anything can be shock loaded enough to break. Now, that doesn't mean you can't break drivetrain parts with street tires. It simply means you probably won't break 1st gear. The issue you have is that by 3rd gear you probably have enough traction not to spin the tires, so that 2-3 powershift can cause failure.
The bottom line is if you plan to drive hard, and use all the power that high powered engine makes; make sure your trans, driveshaft, and rear are up to the task. No one ever lamented having a drivetrain hat was too strong. Sadly the opposite is very often true.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
No clutch is easy on drivetrain parts during a clutch dump. Unless the clutch fails to grip I suppose. When you dump the clutch you are shock loading the drivetrain, which is exactly how drivetrain parts break. Where you may get away with it is on street tires, because the tires will simply spin before anything can be shock loaded enough to break. Now, that doesn't mean you can't break drivetrain parts with street tires. It simply means you probably won't break 1st gear. The issue you have is that by 3rd gear you probably have enough traction not to spin the tires, so that 2-3 powershift can cause failure.
The bottom line is if you plan to drive hard, and use all the power that high powered engine makes; make sure your trans, driveshaft, and rear are up to the task. No one ever lamented having a drivetrain hat was too strong. Sadly the opposite is very often true.
I’ll have to go back and read what I had read about the clutch but it was my understanding that the way the twin disk works also helped reduce the initial shock load. Now I can’t explain it any better than that right now and just thought it may be useful information to someone.
As for my drivetrain, it’s a nodular iron with a Daytona pinion support and 31 spline Moser axle shafts. The transmission is a built G-Force T5. Still need to get the drive shaft made but it will be built to withstand more than what my car can deliver. I do plan on running a very gripping tire on all for corners. Looking at the Toyo R888R tires.
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In a conventional clutch disc, the springs in the disc provide some shock absorbing function to smooth clutch engagement. This will also reduce shock loads. If the twin disc clutch has any shock absorbing feature, there must be some way of absorbing the initial load of force.
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I tried to read what information I could on McLeod website earlier and couldn’t find anything about the twin disk reducing the shock load. It very well could be information I was given by someone online when researching about the clutch.
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Possibly the greater surface area of a twin disc allows them to use less aggressive friction material for smoother engagement, but it would also allow a little more slip. In the end though, its got enough clamp load to hold a lot of power, so if you drop it what are we talking about? A nanosecond more slip? Probably insignificant if the drivetrain's borderline.
A G-Force T5 is built for racing, and a 9" is s stout rear. I wouldn't expect any issues. Make sure that 9" is set up with a solid pinion spacer. That stupid crush sleeve is its Achilles heel.
A sticky street tire is still a street tire. Unless you are going to run a drag radial I would still consider the tires the weak link, and even then, on the street, even with a drag radial its not the same kind of traction you get at the strip. A track is prepped with something like VHT Track Bite to make it sticky, plus all the rubber already on it from other cars (rubber on rubber traction is superior to rubber on asphalt). Then factor in the burnout heating the tires to make them stickier. Also, dumping the clutch at say 2,000-3,000 RPM is not like a real drag launch where you're doing it at like 5,000-6,000 RPM. Think about where the engine is in its powerband in both instances. Torque gets multiplied through the drivetrain, so if it makes 350lb/ft at 3,000, but 450lbs/ft at 5,000 the effective torque is about 1,100 lbs/ft MORE at 5,000 assuming a 2.95 1st gear and a 3.73 rear gear.
Anyway, all pretty theoretical I think you'll be fine. My buddy puts 550-575HP worth of Kenne Bell blown power through a Tremec 3550 and an 8.8 and has never hurt anything in the drivetrain. That's with a Nitto sticky street tire in the 275 width range I believe.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
Possibly the greater surface area of a twin disc allows them to use less aggressive friction material for smoother engagement, but it would also allow a little more slip. In the end though, its got enough clamp load to hold a lot of power, so if you drop it what are we talking about? A nanosecond more slip? Probably insignificant if the drivetrain's borderline.
A G-Force T5 is built for racing, and a 9" is s stout rear. I wouldn't expect any issues. Make sure that 9" is set up with a solid pinion spacer. That stupid crush sleeve is its Achilles heel.
A sticky street tire is still a street tire. Unless you are going to run a drag radial I would still consider the tires the weak link, and even then, on the street, even with a drag radial its not the same kind of traction you get at the strip. A track is prepped with something like VHT Track Bite to make it sticky, plus all the rubber already on it from other cars (rubber on rubber traction is superior to rubber on asphalt). Then factor in the burnout heating the tires to make them stickier. Also, dumping the clutch at say 2,000-3,000 RPM is not like a real drag launch where you're doing it at like 5,000-6,000 RPM. Think about where the engine is in its powerband in both instances. Torque gets multiplied through the drivetrain, so if it makes 350lb/ft at 3,000, but 450lbs/ft at 5,000 the effective torque is about 1,100 lbs/ft MORE at 5,000 assuming a 2.95 1st gear and a 3.73 rear gear.
Anyway, all pretty theoretical I think you'll be fine. My buddy puts 550-575HP worth of Kenne Bell blown power through a Tremec 3550 and an 8.8 and has never hurt anything in the drivetrain. That's with a Nitto sticky street tire in the 275 width range I believe.
Built with a solid crush sleeve. I even have a spare solid sleeve and shims in my tool box. I built the third member myself. I agree, I should be fine with everything I have. The T5 is built to handle 600hp in a much heavier car than what mine will be.
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