TKOPerformance wrote:

Just gong to throw this out there, but I had a new driveshaft made for mine locoally for less than $300.  Steel, nothing fancy, but better than the rusty one I had.  I use a place called Associated Truck Parts.  Pretty sure they are a national chain, so might be one near you.  They've made a couple shafts for me over the years and also rebalanced ones I've rebuilt and the results were always top notch.  My thought is that if this starts getting expensive ($50 here, $30 there) it may be false economy trying to get what you have to work and you end up throwing good money after bad. 

 
Keeping this drive shaft is not part of the plan.  I just can’t afford to buy a new one right now and I’m trying to get the running under its own power before the end of August.  Our son comes home for two weeks from the Marines and would like to surprise him.   If this wasn’t a goal of mine and or money wasn’t tight, I wouldn’t even have wasted time on looking at using what I have.

It has been 5.5 years building it, waiting a little longer won’t kill me.  Just won’t be able to surprise our son.

RTM wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

Just gong to throw this out there, but I had a new driveshaft made for mine locoally for less than $300.  Steel, nothing fancy, but better than the rusty one I had.  I use a place called Associated Truck Parts.  Pretty sure they are a national chain, so might be one near you.  They've made a couple shafts for me over the years and also rebalanced ones I've rebuilt and the results were always top notch.  My thought is that if this starts getting expensive ($50 here, $30 there) it may be false economy trying to get what you have to work and you end up throwing good money after bad. 

 
Keeping this drive shaft is not part of the plan. I just can’t afford to buy a new one right now and I’m trying to get the running under its own power before the end of August. Our son comes home for two weeks from the Marines and would like to surprise him. If this wasn’t a goal of mine and or money wasn’t tight, I wouldn’t even have wasted time on looking at using what I have.

It has been 5.5 years building it, waiting a little longer won’t kill me. Just won’t be able to surprise our son.

I gotcha.  If a driveshaft from a '89 GT helps you can have my old one.  Probably not worth the cost of shipping though. 
 

TKOPerformance wrote:

RTM wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

Just gong to throw this out there, but I had a new driveshaft made for mine locoally for less than $300.  Steel, nothing fancy, but better than the rusty one I had.  I use a place called Associated Truck Parts.  Pretty sure they are a national chain, so might be one near you.  They've made a couple shafts for me over the years and also rebalanced ones I've rebuilt and the results were always top notch.  My thought is that if this starts getting expensive ($50 here, $30 there) it may be false economy trying to get what you have to work and you end up throwing good money after bad. 

 
Keeping this drive shaft is not part of the plan. I just can’t afford to buy a new one right now and I’m trying to get the running under its own power before the end of August. Our son comes home for two weeks from the Marines and would like to surprise him. If this wasn’t a goal of mine and or money wasn’t tight, I wouldn’t even have wasted time on looking at using what I have.

It has been 5.5 years building it, waiting a little longer won’t kill me. Just won’t be able to surprise our son.

I gotcha.  If a driveshaft from a '89 GT helps you can have my old one.  Probably not worth the cost of shipping though. 
 

 
Not sure what it would cost but I suspect it would be to short.  I need 50.5 inches, center to center of the u joint.

Nos681 wrote:

I believe I found a rear u-joint for your setup…if I understood your description correctly.

 
That does look like it would fit the rear.

Well, Ive had another lapse in memory.  The G-Force built T5 has a 28 spline output shaft.  Not sure why or where I thought it was 31 spline. The only splines changed were on the input shaft, 10 to a 26 spline.  So after all that time wasted looking for conversion joints.   I should have double checked what I really had.  I’ll order the conversion joint for the rear and see how it fits.  I’ll also cut the stock slip yoke back a little like MS suggested.

I ended up having to cut 1” off of the length of the driveshaft to get it to fit, but it’s in mustang.  To make sure I didn’t have any runout.  I mounted the driveshaft in the mustang, stuck my magnet base dial indicator to check for runout.   Once I knew it was good I tack welded it, then removed it to fully weld it.  It  should work well enough for what I need it for.  I use to do off road driveshafts like this way back in the day.

Nos681 wrote:

Sounds like the engine was placed darn close to stock location.
I was able to use the stock center console as well.
Still have factory style front suspension, modified of course.

 
I had to locate and weld in the engine stands on my MII kit.  The kit came with mod motor stands.  I moved the motor back as far as the oil pan would allow me.   Not sure if I’m close to the stock location or not.  I do have the 94 T5 so it’s 5/8 longer.

My WC T5 w/351W and R&C MII front suspension placed the shifter in the original location, give or take some minor amount.  I installed a 9" rear, the driveshaft is 50.25" center-to-center of the u-joints.  
I didn't do the MII installation myself.  The installer had done the MII suspension installations before and, as far as I know, followed whatever installation instructions R&C provided.