"I added a stud to make it easier to put the spacer and coil bracket on the stud then bolt it down"

How do you bolt down a stud with a nut? 😜

Last edited by rpm (10/21/2024 7:52 PM)

BobE wrote:

RTM – I’m offering a caution on this item: “I should have used the alternator red wire for my plus 12v to the coil instead of using the yellow wire from the alternator gauge.”
The original color code ‘yellow’ wire mentioned suggests it is for the ammeter and is ‘hot’ (+12v) all the time, when wired per the original wiring.  I’m not sure of the red alternator wire mentioned, but verify that it is hot only when the ignition switch is in ‘run’ and ‘start’, positions.
One doesn’t want the coil with power applied all the time as it will burn out the coil over time.
I realize you may not be referring to the OEM wiring codes, but just wanted to offer this caution.

 
The red and yellow wires for the factory alt gauge are not being used because I have aftermarket gauges.   They are wires that would otherwise be left open and not used.  I repurposed these two wires.

The red wire is a direct line from the hot side of the solenoid straight to the factory gauge with no splices into this wire.   The yellow is a direct line to the voltage regulator with no other splices into it.   I'm not using the voltage regulator or the factory gauge.   So these two wires had no power to them at all, just open wires.   

I reused them by using one to replace the pink resistor wire.  In this case I used the yellow wire from the factory alt gauge.  My distributor needs 12v.  I simple just plugged, in this case the spare yellow into the key ignition source where the pink resistor wire would go.   Now this pink resistor wire needs to be capped off because it will have power during the start mode of the ignition switch but then have no power in the run position.    It'll get power because I still need 12v at start up so the brown wire is still hooked to the solenoid.  This brown wire is a factory splice into the red/gen wire at the firewall connection just in front of the pink resistor wire.  It


Since I used the yellow wire for my distributor 12v supply I had planned on using the red wire for my aftermarket alternator gauge.   Then I realized that I couldn't measure the voltage at the hot side of the solenoid.  This would leave my gauge with a constant 12v.   Since I needed a wire for the newly added oil pressure switch I decided to use this red wire and will pull voltage for my gauge from the fuse block or somewhere else.   I haven't decided on that source yet. 

Sorry if I haven't been very clear as I have a few topics posted and I'm sure most of what I'm doing is buried so when someone reads this I can see why it's misleading.   This stuff is constantly swirling around in my head.   But I'm learning a lot by having to figure this stuff out.  I have reached out to an old friend in Ohio who is and has always been the goto electrical guy for cars.   So this past week I've spent a lot of time on the phone with him asking for his input and advice.

Cab4word67 wrote:

Look at the Autocoolguy fan controler, you will like it...i think

 
That's the plan, just haven't ordered it yet.  Not a fan of the payment method needed by auto cool guy.   If he used standard forms of payment I would have already ordered.

BobE wrote:

RTM wrote:

BobE wrote:

RTM – I’m offering a caution on this item: “I should have used the alternator red wire for my plus 12v to the coil instead of using the yellow wire from the alternator gauge.”
The original color code ‘yellow’ wire mentioned suggests it is for the ammeter and is ‘hot’ (+12v) all the time, when wired per the original wiring.  I’m not sure of the red alternator wire mentioned, but verify that it is hot only when the ignition switch is in ‘run’ and ‘start’, positions.
One doesn’t want the coil with power applied all the time as it will burn out the coil over time.
I realize you may not be referring to the OEM wiring codes, but just wanted to offer this caution.

 
The red and yellow wires for the factory alt gauge are not being used because I have aftermarket gauges. They are wires that would otherwise be left open and not used. I repurposed these two wires.

The red wire is a direct line from the hot side of the solenoid straight to the factory gauge with no splices into this wire. The yellow is a direct line to the voltage regulator with no other splices into it. I'm not using the voltage regulator or the factory gauge. So these two wires had no power to them at all, just open wires.

I reused them by using one to replace the pink resistor wire. In this case I used the yellow wire from the factory alt gauge. My distributor needs 12v. I simple just plugged, in this case the spare yellow into the key ignition source where the pink resistor wire would go. Now this pink resistor wire needs to be capped off because it will have power during the start mode of the ignition switch but then have no power in the run position. It'll get power because I still need 12v at start up so the brown wire is still hooked to the solenoid. This brown wire is a factory splice into the red/gen wire at the firewall connection just in front of the pink resistor wire. It


Since I used the yellow wire for my distributor 12v supply I had planned on using the red wire for my aftermarket alternator gauge. Then I realized that I couldn't measure the voltage at the hot side of the solenoid. This would leave my gauge with a constant 12v. Since I needed a wire for the newly added oil pressure switch I decided to use this red wire and will pull voltage for my gauge from the fuse block or somewhere else. I haven't decided on that source yet.

Sorry if I haven't been very clear as I have a few topics posted and I'm sure most of what I'm doing is buried so when someone reads this I can see why it's misleading. This stuff is constantly swirling around in my head. But I'm learning a lot by having to figure this stuff out. I have reached out to an old friend in Ohio who is and has always been the goto electrical guy for cars. So this past week I've spent a lot of time on the phone with him asking for his input and advice.

RTM - OK, got it now.  Only one comment, if you replaced the ignition resistor wire at the ignition switch, you do not need to maintain the brown wire from the starter solenoid to the distributor;  there will already be +12v power from the ignition switch going to the distributor/coil.  
The Red/Green wire on the ignition switch that connects (plugs into) to the pink resistor wire has +12v power with the key in the ‘On’ and the “Start’ positions.  
 

 
I was under the impression the pink does not have power when cranking?

BobE wrote:

RTM - this posting is getting a little too long, so answering the question: 
"I was under the impression the pink does not have power when cranking?"

No, they are both powered in the 'start' position.  I have an MSD setup that requires +12v power, and have this source connected to that single-plug connector on the ignition switch after removing the 'pink' wire's connector.
I'll note that there is no harm in leaving the 'brown wire from the solenoid connected, it just isn't necessary.
If you want to confirm this, disconnect the brown wire from the solenoid, check for +12v voltage at the distributor with the key in the on and the start positions. 

 

 
When I get to the point of testing I will test it without the brown wire.