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I detest working on my tools. This John Deere has 54 hours on it. The starter solenoid failed. Had to pull all of this to get it out.
And, yes, we are still having to mow.
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As mentioned previously, lazy costs money.
Butt, on my green and yellow machine with 4yr, 400hr warranty, it'd be going back to the stealer.
Different story out of warranty though.
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Hmmm
Never considered it might be under warranty.
Would take more effort to trailer it to the dealer than to just fix it. Part is $17 from Amazon. Hope it fixes it…
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JD going cheap with Chineseum solenoids now? Gotta wait for the snow to melt before I can see my lawn again.
Last edited by Ron68 (2/08/2025 7:00 PM)
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That looks a little like a Harley engine. Hmmm ... have you ever considered an engine swap in that machine? Think of the burnouts
Several of my neighbors had John Deere stuff. They replaced it with something else (usually either Husqvarna or Hustler) after their Deere equipment failed.
I've had several Craftsman lawn tractors and they've all been extremely reliable. The current one has been going trouble-free since 2011 and works year-round - mowing in the summer and snow blowing in the winter. It's made by Husqvarna. My Kubota compact tractor has been trouble-free since I bought it in 1996 - a little over 500 hours. The Kubotas are made in Japan, not China or Korea, and are known to be pretty bullet proof.
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This JD mower is not a Home Depot special. It came from a Deere tractor dealer and has a heavier frame and even power steering. It has a Husqvarna engine with an oil pump and pressurized oil system like a car has. And apparently a crappy solenoid.
I no longer mow my own grass because of my back. My yard guy has his own equipment. This tractor is handy to pull my fertilizer spreader and dump trailer and move inop cars around my driveway and into the shop. Plus occasionally tow the ysrd guy’s zero turn out of the bar ditch when he gets stuck.
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MS wrote:
This JD mower is not a Home Depot special. It came from a Deere tractor dealer and has a heavier frame and even power steering. It has a Husqvarna engine with an oil pump and pressurized oil system like a car has. And apparently a crappy solenoid.
Understood. The neighbors had bought theirs at the local Deere ag equipment dealer so I assume it was the upper tier stuff as you describe. Their failures were also electrical - they had really strange issues that even the dealer never figured out.
For my part, I've specifically bought the tractors with the Kohler engines (other than the Kubota). The Kohler engines (made in Wisconsin) also have pressurized, filtered oiling system.
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And this is the reason I continue to just fix my JD 425AWS which was built in '92. The only thing that bothers me in the JD is now charging an arm and a leg for their parts. Apparently since they aren't selling as many new machines their largest area of income growth has been in parts sales, which basically just means they are shafting everyone like never before. I typically would only buy OEM parts, but this past year I too bought a couple parts off Amazon, all of which worked just fine. If the fail prematurely I'll just buy replacements and still be well under the cost of the part from JD.
Another trick is to go around JD to the manufacturer of the engine, etc. My tractor has a Kawasaki engine and a transaxle made by Tuff Torque. Parts from either are cheaper than from JD, and still OEM.
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About 10 years ago I also went to the local JD store and bought a 48" riding mower, it was the biggest piece of crap that I ever bought. I would absolutely never buy another one. Thanks for letting me give them some free advertisement and letting me vent a little, cuz I'm still PO'd at that deal.
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Looks just like my Tractor! The best thing I got for mine was a Grandson to drive it! I have only had to replace the fuel pump. On the tractor, the one on the Grandson works very well.
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My old JD has been mowing and pushing snow for 23 years. I got the hyrostatic drive model which came with a one-lung Kohler engine. 651 hours, one fuel tank, one starter, one spark plug, and regular oil/filter changes.
Butt (TS&T), I wouldn't buy a new one. Thought about a zero-turn but decided to keep the the JD afloat and spend the money on something fun....like car stuff.
BB1
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I had 1 year when I cut grass in November and again In March. Haven't been in the garage in 2 months this year. Rather be cutting grass and at least be able to get in the garage. My Deers have been usually reliable. Hope that fixes it!
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$17 Amazon solenoid did the trick! Of course, MustangSteve’s LAW applies to John
Deere, too. The new solenoid had 5/16” studs instead of the original’s 1/4” so I had to enlarge the holes in three wire terminals so they would fit.
At least it runs now. I moved cars around today so I can get the fastback on the lift to replace the rack pinion and install the Opentracker lower control arm adjustable mounts.
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MS wrote:
$17
At least it runs now. I moved cars around today so I can get the fastback on the lift to replace the rack pinion and install the Opentracker lower control arm adjustable mounts.
That is a mod I recommend to all 65-66 owners.
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Yep, Bob. I think I will install the kit on the convertible WYAIT
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I'd practice on the vert, then you'll know what you're doing on the 66.
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Elongating the existing holes is the only tedious part. My neighbor has a brand new plasma cutter for sale. Since I have to do BOTH SIDES, that would make cost of buying the machine to cut a hole HALF AS MUCH, right?
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MS wrote:
Elongating the existing holes is the only tedious part. My neighbor has a brand new plasma cutter for sale. Since I have to do BOTH SIDES, that would make cost of buying the machine to cut a hole HALF AS MUCH, right?
And if you do both cars, it is even less.
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MS wrote:
Elongating the existing holes is the only tedious part. My neighbor has a brand new plasma cutter for sale. Since I have to do BOTH SIDES, that would make cost of buying the machine to cut a hole HALF AS MUCH, right?
Yeah ... no. You've only gotta elongate half a hole on each side.
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I had a JD Lx279. I bought it in 2005 and never had any engine issues. It had a 17hp Kawasaki liquid cooled engine. The transmission started acting up after 15 years. I ended up parting it out and I got over $1500 in selling parts off it. Still have a basket full or misc brackets and other parts. I ended up buying a Gravely Pro 0 Turn. That cut my mowing time in half. I can fly on that machine.
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How does a Murray riding mower compare to a J Deere? J Deere 3 times more expensive?! (See where I'm going?)
I doubt many of us will wear out 3 Murray mowers in our life time.
6sally6
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My lawn isn't big enough to justify a riding mower. I have a mid 2000's Honda self propelled that works very well and is very dependable. No real maintenance needed - oil change and sharpen and balance the blades. Plastic deck so no rust - can't really kill it. Starts on first pull every time.
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I have a 60" deck on mine and its a 3-1/2 hour process to mow. Well, 1-1/2 now that my son does the field. This year I'm hoping for it to be a 0 hour task. Its time for him to start doing the main lawn too.
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rpm wrote:
MS wrote:
/// install the Opentracker lower control arm adjustable mounts.
That is a mod I recommend to all 65-66 owners.
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