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Can someone tell me what to expect to pay a chassis shop to have the pinion angle set on my 1964 Falcon?
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moon4964 wrote:
Can someone tell me what to expect to pay a chassis shop to have the pinion angle set on my 1964 Falcon?
That's a tough question to answer. Are you running stock suspension, stock transmission? Why does the angle need to be set? Way too many variables to consider. It could take a shop an hour or many more.
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RTM wrote:
moon4964 wrote:
Can someone tell me what to expect to pay a chassis shop to have the pinion angle set on my 1964 Falcon?
That's a tough question to answer. Are you running stock suspension, stock transmission? Why does the angle need to be set? Way too many variables to consider. It could take a shop an hour or many more.
I'd also include any other modifications have been made to the drivetrain that makes you question the pinion angel?
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It is easy to measure your engine/driveline angle and your current pinion angle. There are even apps on phones to let you do it. Measure first and determine if you even need the angle changed. There are a lot of variables - spring type, suspension type (link versus leaf), etc., but if the pinion is 1 or 1.5 degrees "down" from the engine it will load up and be right where you need it. Leaf spring shims are readily available to raise it up or down and are easily installed with a helper if needed.
Why do you think you have driveline angle issue? Are you fighting a vibration problem? Are you confident that the pinion angle is responsible?
At a minimum I would measure it yourself rather than taking it to a shop with an open checkbook.
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Quick performance 9" rear housing. Traction lock 3.0 gears. Stock leaf springs, rear sway bar. Changed to 15-inch wheels from stock 14 inchers. Ford toploader, small flange.
I checked the angle of the tranny and pinion. The pinion is~5 degrees down. The tranny is ~2 degrees up.
I will check those angles one more time before I consider the visit to the chassis shop
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To clarify, is the nose of the pinion pointing up or down? Not sure I've seen many applications where the back of the transmission is higher than the crank at the front of the engine. In a lot of stock-ish applications the engine will be down in back 2 or 3 degrees So, when you talk up and down, if you were standing on the drivers side of the car facing the door, is the front of the engine higher or lower than the back of the transmission? Is the pinion flange pointed up or down?
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The pinion is pointing down, but I will recheck this week when the temps go back up to 25F. Single digtis for the next three days.
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Gentlemen.
Attached are two photos: one of the pinion angle taken at the base of the differential; the other of the trans angle measured at the base of the top loader. If more clear photos need to be submitted, I can shoot them again this w/e. I want to know if the angles are acceptable. Thank you. upload pic
Last edited by moon4964 (2/27/2025 6:17 PM)
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Did you install the spring perches or did they ship the new axle to you with the perches welded on? Is the axle sitting properly on the springs? Is the car on the ground at ride height or is the axle hanging down?
if the pinion flange is indeed 5 degrees down it is way off, I'm not sure I trust your reading on the trans. You might also confirm with a reading taken along a valve cover with the level held level side to side. Or, you can also try to get a reading off of the crank pulley. It looks like you may need a 4 degree angle/wedge shim to bring the pinion flange "up" but I'd try to figure out why it is sitting so low in the first place.
Report back what you get on a valve cover or some other point on the engine. Don't use the air cleaner or carb flange as they are usually angled at about 3 degrees so the carb will sit level when the engine angles down. Are you running stock-style engine mounts? Do you have an aftermarket trans mount? Do you have big tires in back that is angling the car down in front?
You can't run it like that. You may be able to find a driveline shop that does driveline setups rather than a generic chassis shop. And, Is your driveshaft the correct length? If it is too long it could be forcing the pinion down.
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His pinion yoke shows pointed up, and just under 5° to my eyes, which is about twice what I think it should be. The trans reads 0°, but should be pointed down.
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The angle finder shows one thing and my eyes seem to see the opposite. It could be the angle of the picture/camera. You may want to pull the driveshaft and measure off of the yoke to be sure. And - try another angle finder or use your phone - as mentioned there are a lot of apps and you'll get pretty accurate digital values.
If it is up, a 3 degree wedge could bring it down to about 2 degrees Why I am suspicious of your angle finder is that at RPM mentioned, your engine/driveline should be lower in back. A common setup would be about 3 degrees down on the drivetrain and the pinion flange "up" about 2 degrees to account for the wrap of the leaf spring when under load. Sorry for the confusion on my part with the numbers. I'll blame it on the cataracts/
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Cataract surgery is one of the best things ever.
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Leonie had her first eye done a week ago, she had mostly given up night driving.
She drove 140 km last night, loved it.
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Right eye on March 18 left eye on the 25th. Still won't correct looking at the arrow on an angle finder the wrong way.
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GPatrick wrote:
Right eye on March 18 left eye on the 25th. Still won't correct looking at the arrow on an angle finder the wrong way.
Brahahaha...
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It's best to measure pinion angle off the flat of the rear end yoke not the housing. Maybe they are the same or maybe not, but pinion yoke is what you want as your reference.
Here's a pretty good calculator to use. You input all your recorded angles and go from there as you really cannot just say "the rear needs to be X" without knowing the relation of the others.
Last edited by Raymond_B (2/28/2025 9:16 AM)
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Thank you.
The perches are welded to the housing. The driveshaft is the correct length. The car is on the ground at the [proper ride height. I will take the driveshaft down to enable placing the angle finder on the yoke. I will also take the angle on the valve cover to get the better angle on the trans/engine.
Last edited by moon4964 (2/28/2025 9:43 AM)
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Is there anything unique about your engine mounts or trans crossmember/mount? Compare your angle readings with your phone as a double-check.
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You should be able to get an angle finder reading on the yoke without dropping the driveshaft.
I suggest checking both sides of the yoke to verify the readings are the same. There could be some machining differences between the two sides.
Also, check the angle reading on the floor surface where ever you're taking these redings.
Last edited by BobE (3/02/2025 3:37 PM)
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BobE wrote:
You should be able to get an angle finder reading on the yoke without dropping the driveshaft.
I suggest checking both sides of the yoke to verify the readings are the same. There could be some machining differences between the two sides.
Also, check the angle reading on the floor surface where ever you're taking these redings.
Good advice.
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Attached are the engine and pinion angle readings taken today. As suggested by Senior 24-7, removal of the driveshaft was not necessary.
I am including two photos each taken at the engine and yoke. For the engine, I rested the angle finer on a horizontal fin of the valve cover. If this is not adequate, please advise with a better location for the engine angle.
book photo frame png
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I would use the carb pad personally, if I could verify that the pad was not at an angle. If the valve cover is not perfectly parallel, or the fin is not cast perfectly parallel I would think you could easily get an erroneous reading. Being off by only 1/16" would be enough to skew the results.
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In addition to TKO’s suggestions, I’d check several places on the engine to verify consistency of the readings. If you can also check the crankshaft pulley, and don’t forget to verify if the floor is level.
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Here's some good tips on how to measure the various angles. Ignore the talk about numbers though because, as he points out, he has a coil spring rear.
This guy gives a good overview of what you're trying to accomplish by figuring out the *working angle*. Now he's coming from a drag race perspective so don't focus too much on the numbers he puts out as optimal. Street car does not need so much working/pinion angle.
Hopefully this helps, I think to summarize you want to measure either the engine angle or trans yoke angle whichever is easiest. Then measure your drive shaft angle, and finally your pinion angle. The working angle of the drive shaft angle and pinion angle are what you are after, but it's good to get that trans angle too to give you a full picture.
I hope this helps and is somewhat clear
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Will do, gentlemen. I will report back later this week. I just want to have a safe ride.
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