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Got the exhaust finished. Installed the repaired radiator and filled it and no apparent leaks. Put gas in the tank for the first time and fired it up. Thought it was going well and got out of the mustang to adjust the timing and the card. Then I see coolant all over the floor. It's coming out of the AC drain. I'm going to cry myself to sleep tonight.
Mufflers sound good and not much different than open headers.
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AC Drain ?
6s6
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Also known as the heater core box.
6sally6 wrote:
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AC Drain ?
6s6
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RV6 wrote:
Also known as the heater core box.
6sally6 wrote:
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AC Drain ?
6s6
Yep, I was going to say the heater core as well. Maybe the connection(s) to the core is just loose. With winter winding down, he could just bypass the heater at the front of the engine for now so he could keep moving forward then revisit it at a future date once everything else is working.
Perhaps clamping two small needle nose vise grips with pieces of fuel line protecting the jaws would work as the easiest temporary "bypass".
Last edited by Rufus68 (3/01/2025 8:18 PM)
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I'll be pulling it all apart today. I'll update on what I find. I'm suspicious that one of the tubes from the heater core is cracked where it enters the core itself.
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Yeah, projects seem to go like this sometimes. 2 steps forward, 2 steps back. It'll come together.
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Is that you heater core or AC evaporator?
After reading a plethora of stories about new heater cores failing, I pressure tested mine before install.
Last edited by rpm (3/02/2025 9:34 AM)
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rpm wrote:
Is that you heater core or AC evaporator?
After reading a plethora of stories about new heater cores failing, I pressure tested mine before install.
It's the heater core. System was pressure tested by CAA and it wouldn't have mattered if I tested it before installing it because I mounted the module in a spot I thought was safe. Clearly it was not a good spot to mount it. I'll take it to the same shop that repaired my radiator. Couldn't find a replacement on CAA website. I did send CAA and email asking if they sell them separately.
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That hole in the heater core looks “twisted’ like either a screw or a drill bit made it.
If both low and hi-beams aren’t working, I’d start at the headlight switch.
Don’t get frustrated, take a break, re-group and start again. Remember, you've come a long way already, it will all come together.
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BobE wrote:
That hole in the heater core looks “twisted’ like either a screw or a drill bit made it.
If both low and hi-beams aren’t working, I’d start at the headlight switch.
Don’t get frustrated, take a break, re-group and start again. Remember, you've come a long way already, it will all come together.
It was for sure a screw that damaged the heater core. I mounted the module where the factory CAA mounting bracket goes but the bracket has specific locations for the mounting screws. I thought I could mount the CAA module there but I guess not.
I had issues with the wires getting pushed out of the headlight switch connector when I first put it together. I suspect the power wire in this plug has come loose. Fuse is fine. I just didn't want to tear into another problem tonight when I need to finish the heater core issue first. Sadly we will be traveling starting Tuesday night and won't be home until Sunday night. The mustang will have to wait two weeks before I can get back to it.
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RTM wrote:
BobE wrote:
That hole in the heater core looks “twisted’ like either a screw or a drill bit made it.
If both low and hi-beams aren’t working, I’d start at the headlight switch.
Don’t get frustrated, take a break, re-group and start again. Remember, you've come a long way already, it will all come together.
The mustang will have to wait two weeks before I can get back to it.
Sometimes they need to be punished ! 2 weeks should make the Mustang a little more ....shall we say...co-operative ! Tell it,(when you get back) "I hope you've learned a valuable lesson..."
I was gonna say...that hole looks strangely like a screw-hole (no pun intended).
FYI......my lil parts chaser pick-up has had the heater core by-passed for several YEARS ! It just doesn't get cold enough for long enough to be a problem.
(You live 'Souther' than me! Is zatta word ?!)
6sally6
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RTM – take the two weeks to relax.
Just a note, there isn’t any fuse associated with the headlights, at least originally supplied. There is a circuit breaker contained within the light switch for headlight protection.
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BobE wrote:
RTM – take the two weeks to relax.
Just a note, there isn’t any fuse associated with the headlights, at least originally supplied. There is a circuit breaker contained within the light switch for headlight protection.
Yep, and it will keep tripping if you run modern headlight bulbs with the factory wiring. I'm betting you already installed relays to make that a non issue, but just in case hopefully I saved you from another problem.
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I have the upgraded Scott Drake dash harness with modern fuses and has its own relay. My highbeam indicator won't even turn on. It's something in the switch because the dash lights wouldn't come on and then they would after messing with the switch, well turning them on and off. Dash lights were intermittent.
I'm stressing because if I take this job offer in Nashville I may not have much time left to work on it.
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I have the upgraded Scott Drake dash harness with modern fuses and has its own relay. My highbeam indicator won't even turn on. It's something in the switch because the dash lights wouldn't come on and then they would after messing with the switch, well turning them on and off. Dash lights were intermittent. I do have relays for the H4 lights wouldn't
I'm stressing because if I take this job offer in Nashville I may not have much time left to work on it.
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Very nice, love the sound.
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I sent the complete heater box back to CAA for them to repair it.
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RTM wrote:
I have the upgraded Scott Drake dash harness with modern fuses and has its own relay. My highbeam indicator won't even turn on. It's something in the switch because the dash lights wouldn't come on and then they would after messing with the switch, well turning them on and off. Dash lights were intermittent. I do have relays for the H4 lights wouldn't
I'm stressing because if I take this job offer in Nashville I may not have much time left to work on it.
From this description, sounds to me like the problem is at the headlight switch. If the headlights aren't working and the dash lights are intermittent, I'd start with the 12v feed wire to headlight switch, or its connection to the switch.
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Quality of the headlight switch and the dimmer switch will be a factor. There a huge price difference between an original switch ($115.00) and a replacement switch ($20) in NPDs catalog. I would hope an original style switch would perform better than a $20 counter part.
Can't remember what headlight switch I would up with, but it has worked OK. The dimmer switch was ACP brand, I think. I was junk from the start and never worked. I still had what Ford installed. It got cleaned up and put back in the car!!
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The switch is easy enough to test. I have an original in a box somewhere I'm sure still works. My concern would be the harness, because I'm gun shy wit anything sold by Scott Drake.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
The switch is easy enough to test. I have an original in a box somewhere I'm sure still works. My concern would be the harness, because I'm gun shy wit anything sold by Scott Drake.
I already had a couple of the clips push out on the headlight plug on the Scott Drake harness. There was someone making 3D printed headlight on blocks. I mentioned I would be interested in one when he worked out the details. I might follow up on that to see if he ever made them.
I do have the original dash harness but I don't know the wire connectors plug in the same as the stock ones.
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RTM - if you are using the original headlight switch, the new wire harness connector has to be the same ... unless it was miss-wired at the factory.
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