Original parts are HARD-TO-BEAT....PERIOD!!
Not sure if I told you butt.....I went through at least 3 horn/turn signal switches (el-cheapo knockoffs) before I paid 5 times as much for a NOS one. END-OF-PROBLEM ......
Dust off and clean up the original and use it (If you can)
I even "modified" mine so the front parking lights stay on when the headlights are on.......
6sally6

Scott Drake and upgraded is an oxymoron.

RTM wrote:

BobE wrote:

RTM - if you are using the original headlight switch, the new wire harness connector has to be the same ... unless it was miss-wired at the factory.  

 
It's the Scott Drake upgraded dash harness. So yes it plugs into the factory headlight switch. What I'm getting at or wondering is if the electrical connectors in the Scott Drake harness are the same as the factory ones. If so I could use the factory block with the Scott Drake harness and the wires should stay in place better. Make sense?

At the headlight, I’d verify that 12v (OEM wire #25, Black-Orange) is available.  This wire is ‘hot’ all the time.  Then apply 12v to the wire that goes to the headlights (OEM wire # 15, Red-Yellow).  This wire goes the floor mounted hi-low beam switch.  From the hi-low switch, two wires go to the headlight, one for either the hi or low beam.
I emailed you a sketch I made of the headlight switch, hope this helps.  



 

The AC box should be here by the end of the day tomorrow.

Nos681 wrote:

RTM wrote:

I'm stressing because if I take this job offer in Nashville I may not have much time left to work on it.

 
Bob, for a small fee I will gladly take it so you don’t have to stress out.
Win-win! 😁

Since the mid 90’s, I perform my initial coolant fill with water only.
It allows the rubber hoses to seal on metal fittings and check for leaks.
The coolant seems to be more slippery than in past and I was having issues with leaks at fittings.

Look at bright side, the screw didn’t get into wiring harness and let the smoke out.

Take your time, it will be worth it.

 
I'll drop it off.   What's your address?   lol

Yeah there's always a bright side to everything, just loose that clear perspective once in a while. 

I noticed the coolant was very slick to the touch too. 

AC box was stuck at a warehouse in North Florida when I tracked it last night.  Hopefully it'll show up today.    I had a 6pm appointment last night anyways so I didn't have time to work on the mustang anyways.

Got the heater box reinstalled yesterday in the mustang.   It wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be.   I may try to set the timing today and adjust the carb.  Plus continue wet sanding.

Nos681 wrote:

BobE…I am sure there is “something” in the water…I am crazy enough to still live here. 😂

RTM…great when things aren’t as bad as we initially think.  Car looks great.

 
Thank you.

moon4964 wrote:

The speedometer on my restored 1964 Falcon rattled as though the new cable needed to be dry-lubed. Cable lube administered. The rattle became intermittent but did not disappear. Now the indicator is stuck at 40mph, and the rattle is gone. This appears to be a problem with the mechanism behind the speedometer and not the cable.  I would like to hear from any member who has had a similar problem. I would like to replace the mechanism and not the entire instrument cluster.

My one experience years ago with speedometer cable noise, the solution was “Lubrease; Chain & Cable Lubricant”, that is not a 'dry' type. I removed the cable from the shield and ran the cable through a pool of the lubricant, working it in by hand.  Worked just fine. I believe this spray lubricant is still available.

 

I will repost as new topic.