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If anyone has any good leads on a distributor. Auto zone sells the Duralast but heard bad reviews on them ....I was looking at the one that is offered on LMR.com and it looks pretty good some of the reviews said they got one with the gear in wrong spot though. its a 97 302 with a 5 speed looking for the 1985 carb distrib for manual trans..
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I've had really good luck with the remanufactured CARDONE units. I've run them on 3 different engines and they've always been very reliable. I normally got mine from O'Reilly's but I'm not sure they sell them any longer. Rock Auto does though.
BTW, I think CARDONE sells a line of new distributors as well. Some have reported issues with those (cap fitment is the most frequent one I've seen) so my recommendation is to get a remanufactured one, not a new one.
Last edited by John Ha (3/18/2025 6:44 AM)
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Most likely you're going to have to change the dist gear. Give your engine builder or cam provider a call with your cam part# and information. They will tell you what dist gear to run. Don't guess, don't let people tell you that they are all the same for certain years or for certain cams. This is one of the areas when aftermarket parts are installed that things get a bit complicated, but your engine builder along with the cam provider will set you straight.
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Are you looking for stock or an upgraded unit? I bought a Progressive Distributor that you can set your own timing tables and even disable it so no one can steel it. All via the app on your phone.
Many years ago I bought a rebuilt unit just like what you're looking for from autozone and drove the mustang for 7 years and never had an issue with it.
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Raymond_B wrote:
Most likely you're going to have to change the dist gear. Give your engine builder or cam provider a call with your cam part# and information. They will tell you what dist gear to run. Don't guess, don't let people tell you that they are all the same for certain years or for certain cams. This is one of the areas when aftermarket parts are installed that things get a bit complicated, but your engine builder along with the cam provider will set you straight.
Its a steel gear.
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What ignition system are you planning to run?
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John Ha wrote:
I've had really good luck with the remanufactured CARDONE units. I've run them on 3 different engines and they've always been very reliable. I normally got mine from O'Reilly's but I'm not sure they sell them any longer. Rock Auto does though.
BTW, I think CARDONE sells a line of new distributors as well. Some have reported issues with those (cap fitment is the most frequent one I've seen) so my recommendation is to get a remanufactured one, not a new one.
The one that is on it now has a cap fitment issue and I am thinking I may have got it at Rock Auto. the ones on LMR.com seem to be pretty good. They are 89.99 for the 1985 dist with steel gear for manual trans.
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Rufus68 wrote:
What ignition system are you planning to run?
Motocraft Duraspark is on it now
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BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:
The one that is on it now has a cap fitment issue and I am thinking I may have got it at Rock Auto. the ones on LMR.com seem to be pretty good. They are 89.99 for the 1985 dist with steel gear for manual trans.
Just an FYI, all of the CARDONE remanufactured units I've gotten have had FORD casting numbers inside them. So they were, at one time, original Ford units.
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John Ha wrote:
BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:
The one that is on it now has a cap fitment issue and I am thinking I may have got it at Rock Auto. the ones on LMR.com seem to be pretty good. They are 89.99 for the 1985 dist with steel gear for manual trans.
Just an FYI, all of the CARDONE remanufactured units I've gotten have had FORD casting numbers inside them. So they were, at one time, original Ford units.
Good to know I could look at it at parts store before purchase
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BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:
Good to know I could look at it at parts store before purchase
They've been under the breaker plate, and under the plate that holds the weights. So you'll have to do some disassembly to see them. EDIT TO ADD: Silly me - you could also look at the vacuum advance. In the photo it has "Motorcraft" cast into the housing. find duplicates in csv online
Last edited by John Ha (3/19/2025 9:37 AM)
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BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:
Raymond_B wrote:
Most likely you're going to have to change the dist gear. Give your engine builder or cam provider a call with your cam part# and information. They will tell you what dist gear to run. Don't guess, don't let people tell you that they are all the same for certain years or for certain cams. This is one of the areas when aftermarket parts are installed that things get a bit complicated, but your engine builder along with the cam provider will set you straight.
Its a steel gear.
YOU SURE...??!
BET YOUR MOW-DER ON IT SURE...??!
It's dat impotent..
6sally6
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6sally6 wrote:
BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:
Raymond_B wrote:
Most likely you're going to have to change the dist gear. Give your engine builder or cam provider a call with your cam part# and information. They will tell you what dist gear to run. Don't guess, don't let people tell you that they are all the same for certain years or for certain cams. This is one of the areas when aftermarket parts are installed that things get a bit complicated, but your engine builder along with the cam provider will set you straight.
Its a steel gear.
YOU SURE...??!
BET YOUR MOW-DER ON IT SURE...??!
It's dat impotent..
6sally6
yes I have had 2 differet ones in it so far. The Petronix distributor and new coil is laying on passenger seat in a box and the Distributor that is in it now also has a steel gear but for some reason my friend that put it in has it set at 36 and no vaccum like a race car and I dont feel like that is best to run it like that. It seems to run out strong down the road but it is hard to crank and driving around at slower ssppeds sux.
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I would think 36 degrees full advance is OK. What is the initial advance set at, and at what idle RPM? One of the critical items is how quick the centrifugal advance comes into play and that is controlled by the springs on the counterweight. I’d suggest plotting the advance vs. RPM at various RPM’s up to the full advance RPM.
When tuning the carburetor, this would be good info to have to help with overall tuning.
I have an MSD distributor, no vacuum advance, changing the counterweight springs created an obvious change in how the engine ran, and pulled, through the RPM range. This distributor came with different advance springs.
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Following up what BobE said, there are a couple of places you can send your distributor to get the advance curve set up to match your engine. One is Dan at the Mustang Barn. I sent him the distributor for my 250 after I'd messed around with it for a few months trying to get it right, and I'm very pleased with how it works now.
The other fellow that does it is on fordsix.com. His screen name is wsa111, his company is Ambler Racing. I have no personal experience with his work.
Last edited by John Ha (3/19/2025 9:35 AM)
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THIS ^^^^ is the site I used and it is EZ to unnerstan. (has to be if I use it!)
I also have my curve set up with OUT vacuum advance and a total of 36*
With the lightest springs it goes to FULL (36*) advance under 2000 RPM.
Instant REV off idle and NO spark knock.
I do have a limiter so the timing won't go above 36*.
With 9.5:1 CR and a good battery.. hots starts are a little slow butt..it has never left me. With a manual transmission I don't lug the engine at low speed but....
it will pull right off in 4th gear at 15-20 mph withOUT any spark rattle.
Remember BILLY...around-town cruis'in this as hot a motor as you have...they act a little grumpy.
That's why God made a clutch and lower gears !
When it starts to lope a little (like a motor boat going over a wake) Kick in the clutch and clean it out a little.
Maybe down shift of a lower gear!
That's the fun in driving a '-oh no I used a word I shouldn't have--stomp'in' hot rod that MOST guys would die for !!! That's why they all give you 'the Thumbs-up or the Nod' !!
I've noticed NOBODY gives me a thumbs-up or the nod....when I drive the Hyundai.
6sally6
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John Ha wrote:
Following up what BobE said, there are a couple of places you can send your distributor to get the advance curve set up to match your engine. One is Dan at the Mustang Barn. I sent him the distributor for my 250 after I'd messed around with it for a few months trying to get it right, and I'm very pleased with how it works now.
The other fellow that does it is on fordsix.com. His screen name is wsa111, his company is Ambler Racing. I have no personal experience with his work.
I messaged Dan at the Mustang Barn and he said they use a Old Sun machine which I looked up and I remember seeing these machines in shops when I was a kid. Found a few videos of people still using them.
Adjusting a Distributor on a vintage Sun Distributor tester
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=13px
progression ignition distributor looks cool
Last edited by BTaylor (3/20/2025 5:54 PM)
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BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:
John Ha wrote:
Following up what BobE said, there are a couple of places you can send your distributor to get the advance curve set up to match your engine. One is Dan at the Mustang Barn. I sent him the distributor for my 250 after I'd messed around with it for a few months trying to get it right, and I'm very pleased with how it works now.
The other fellow that does it is on fordsix.com. His screen name is wsa111, his company is Ambler Racing. I have no personal experience with his work.I messaged Dan at the Mustang Barn and he said they use a Old Sun machine which I looked up and I remember seeing these machines in shops when I was a kid. Found a few videos of people still using them.
Adjusting a Distributor on a vintage Sun Distributor tester
That Sun machine would be great to use. Knowing what the optimum advance rate for an individual’s car is the critical part. For most of us this becomes a trail and error exercise. Including re-tuning the carburetor, and vacuum advance (if equipped) which each change.
The MSD distributor I have came with six springs of different values which gave me multiple combinations of springs to try, which I did until I found the best combination that worked for me. MSD did provide a chart that indicated each combination of springs impact the rate of advance change.
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