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I had the Mustang running. Floats were set to high so I adjusted them. Bumped the timing a little and it was running great. Then I see smoke, a coolant but I can't see from where. Right in front on the ground was a freeze plug. At least it happened in the garage and not out driving or racing. It is the front passenger side plug so I should be able to get at to install a new one. I just can't catch a break. The build curse continues.
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You’re welcome to drop ‘er off at my house anytime.😜
What sealer did you use on the plug?
At least it didn’t happen in BFE at night on a weekend.
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As my daddy always said. it's always something. Hope it doesn't turn into a big problem.
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I had put a 289 in a 61 Falcon years ago, when filled it with water, the front freeze-out plug on the cylinder head on the driver’s side had a small crack and was leaking. Thankfully, that head wasn’t installed on the passenger side, which was very close to the firewall, and a lot more difficult to replace.
Hope you find out why your plug came out.
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I didn't install them, the shop that did the machine work on the block installed them. When I got the block I almost bought the screw in freeze plugs but decided not to. Now I wish I had gone that route. I'm worried about the others now. But it sounds good!!! I'm so close.
Looks like it wasn't pushed in far enough.
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wsinsle wrote:
As my daddy always said. it's always something.
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That sucks! At least its something you can fix yourself.
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Keep hammering away at it Bob. Ya got just short of five months before ya gotta leave for the Bash.
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RTM - you might want to consider installing petcocks in the block water drain holes. Those plugs can be difficult to remove,especially on the driver's side.
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BobE wrote:
RTM - you might want to consider installing petcocks in the block water drain holes. Those plugs can be difficult to remove,especially on the driver's side.
Too late for that now. Ugh
I have a vibration and I'm pretty sure it's the twin disk clutch setup. The disk is marked and supposed to be balanced but when I read McLeod website they recommend you get it balanced. Guess what I'm pulling this week.
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I can't write the words I feel for this set back. I find it surprising that McLeod doesn't balance before shippiafdws b
080uo =7Where does one take the clutch setup to be balanced? And how does the balancer coordinate with the engine’s balance?
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BobE wrote:
I can't write the words I feel for this set back. I find it surprising that McLeod doesn't balance before shippiafdws b
080uo =7Where does one take the clutch setup to be balanced? And how does the balancer coordinate with the engine’s balance?
The twin clutch has markings that have to stay lined up. I don't recall reading in the installation instructions saying it had to be balanced but maybe they did. On their website they highly recommend getting it balanced.
I never noticed the vibration on the engine but there was no clutch installed then. I can't even feel it at idle. I noticed it during a rev. Just praying it's this easy of a fix.
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Pressure plate and flywheel are suppose to be spot on when checked. Replaced the roller pilot bearing with a solid one. The ID got a little too tight for the input shaft. I made a makeshift reamer out of a transfer punch got the trans bolted to the bell housing. Sadly I spent way too much time fighting the trans install until I figured out what was wrong.
I did discover my trans mount is bad. That could have been the cause of the slight vibration. New mount arrives today.
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BobE wrote:
RTM - you might want to consider installing petcocks in the block water drain holes. Those plugs can be difficult to remove,especially on the driver's side.
I have done this on any engine I've built for 2 decades now, and If you ever have to drain the block, or want to properly flush the cooling system they come in very handy.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
BobE wrote:
RTM - you might want to consider installing petcocks in the block water drain holes. Those plugs can be difficult to remove,especially on the driver's side.
I have done this on any engine I've built for 2 decades now, and If you ever have to drain the block, or want to properly flush the cooling system they come in very handy.
Who makes a quality petcock today. Ever one I've used in the last 5+ years has worked exactly once. Then it turns into a plug.
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rpm wrote:
TKOPerformance wrote:
BobE wrote:
RTM - you might want to consider installing petcocks in the block water drain holes. Those plugs can be difficult to remove,especially on the driver's side.
I have done this on any engine I've built for 2 decades now, and If you ever have to drain the block, or want to properly flush the cooling system they come in very handy.
Who makes a quality petcock today. Ever one I've used in the last 5+ years has worked exactly once. Then it turns into a plug.
I have used and love Fumoto's
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Raymond_B wrote:
rpm wrote:
TKOPerformance wrote:
I have done this on any engine I've built for 2 decades now, and If you ever have to drain the block, or want to properly flush the cooling system they come in very handy.
Who makes a quality petcock today. Ever one I've used in the last 5+ years has worked exactly once. Then it turns into a plug.I have used and love Fumoto's
Agreed. I learned about these on the Diesel forum and they are quite nice.
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It's back together. Temp gauge works, says 200 idling in the garage. Can't recall if I have a 190 or 180 thermostat. Replaced the bad transmission mount but sadly I still feel a small vibration. I'm now thinking it's from the semi solid motor mounts and now a semi solid transmission mount. Bring the revs up and it's as smooth as you expect it to be. Nice choppy idle. I also fixed the hydro boost leak. The mounting bolt for the side plate was loose. Feeling more confident about it all.
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Small vibrations......is just the way a 'hot' Mustang tells ya it luvs ya....
Notice how immediately it starts scream'in once you get it above idle.
That just means ..."it-likes-you"...
The best way to 'maybe' cure the vibration is....
First to s
Second gear...accelerator pinned to floor (watch tach pretty closely when doing this)
Second to Third gear same thing (note Redline on tach)
Third to Fourth gear (right knee straight out ! (be aware muscle cramps in right leg could develop)
THEN..... Fourth to Third gear with accelerator OFF the floor (both hands on steering wheel is advised)
After you get it straight again...Third to Second gear (keep a look out for Poe-Poe)
THEN...Second to First gear while spinning steering wheel HARD LEFT ! (May need full acceleration again!)
6sally6
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See-Gar is optional butt.............a nice touch for all the hard work you've put in......
6s6
Last edited by 6sally6 (Yesterday 5:46 PM)
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6sally6 wrote:
Small vibrations......is just the way a 'hot' Mustang tells ya it luvs ya....
Notice how immediately it starts scream'in once you get it above idle.
That just means ..."it-likes-you"...
The best way to 'maybe' cure the vibration is....
First to s
Second gear...accelerator pinned to floor (watch tach pretty closely when doing this)
Second to Third gear same thing (note Redline on tach)
Third to Fourth gear (right knee straight out ! (be aware muscle cramps in right leg could develop)
THEN..... Fourth to Third gear with accelerator OFF the floor (both hands on steering wheel is advised)![]()
After you get it straight again...Third to Second gear (keep a look out for Poe-Poe)![]()
THEN...Second to First gear while spinning steering wheel HARD LEFT ! (May need full acceleration again!)
![]()
![]()
6sally6
Well it's still on jack stands. Maybe this weekend I'll get it on the ground.
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6sally6 wrote:
See-Gar is optional butt.............a nice touch for all the hard work you've put in......
6s6
I love how he gets his elbow going before the shift. lol
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