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I was able to catch my error with the help of a home made tool. This video also has time-lapse of the engine assembly at the end.
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NIce video Day - you have demonstrated a point - that all torque wrenches are not the same, and the average mechanic doesn't have a method to check the calibration of each one he has. The click type are the most suspect. The deflection beam ones are ball park, and the dial indicating and digital are probably the most accurate. When I was working, I used to bring in my wrenches to work and check their calibration with a calibrated tester that we had in our tool room. Most times they weren't far off, but a Harbor Freight click type one made in China was almost 7 pounds too light. I've always gone by the rule that if there is a give torque range, I always torque to the high end of the range.
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Very nice!
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I'm so impressed with your videos. That takes a lot of time and you're so good at covering everything and at a pace that's not rushed.
Many years back I let someone borrow my torque wrench. It was the style that had to be return zero and not left and torque setting. Well my buddy left it at a torque setting and I didn't catch it. I ended up snapping a main cap bolt on a 300 6cyl. I was build for my dad. I know have torque wrench's that can be left in a torque setting but I still return them to zero.
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RTM wrote:
I'm so impressed with your videos. That takes a lot of time and you're so good at covering everything and at a pace that's not rushed.
Many years back I let someone borrow my torque wrench. It was the style that had to be return zero and not left and torque setting. Well my buddy left it at a torque setting and I didn't catch it. I ended up snapping a main cap bolt on a 300 6cyl. I was build for my dad. I know have torque wrench's that can be left in a torque setting but I still return them to zero.
The rule of thumb that I was taught, was to always return them to 0 torque setting (except the dial indicating or deflection beam ones)
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I’ve often wondered about getting a digital torque adapter to check my Torque wrenches
by clamping the adapters square drive in a vice and going through various settings .
The digital adapter I looked at had a plus/minus accuracy of 2%.
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Rod bolts are the most critical fastener in the engine, so you really want to get them right. I'm a fan of the deflection beam type for rod bolts if you can't use a stretch gauge or don't have stretch specs.
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One of the biggest mistakes I've seen in engines is the rods installed backwards. There is a flat side and a radiused side, which is meant to go to the outside, where the crankshaft journals are also radiused. The flat sides of the rods face each other in the middle.
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Greg B wrote:
One of the biggest mistakes I've seen in engines is the rods installed backwards. There is a flat side and a radiused side, which is meant to go to the outside, where the crankshaft journals are also radiused. The flat sides of the rods face each other in the middle.
Especially with an aftermarket crank with a big fillet radius. The rods need to be positioned properly, AND the bearing shells also need to be positioned properly (though the locating tabs should address that part of it). This is why a test spin is always advised, once you get all the pistons and rods installed. If anything is wrong you likely won't be able to spin it over, though you may also find this out as you try to install the next set of rods/pistons and need to spin the crank a bit for access. I always set the crank and test spin, then test it with each set of rods/pistons I install. Just the crank should spin if you put a breaker bar on the snout parallel to the ground and let it fall (old Smokey Yunick trick). If it won't spin like that something is off. Either the bearing clearances are too tight, the line bore is no straight, or the crank is bent.
The pistons can go on the rods backwards too, depending on if the piston has a dome, or just 2 valve reliefs. Its another reason I like floating pins, because its easy to remedy if you messed up. Its a chore with pressed pins.
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I wish I could rock a hat like that...
The man knew engines and he didn't mince words. We can always use more of that. Thanks Mike!
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