They make stick looking aluminium radiators, MS has one. Since your motor is a 351W, I'm not sure what a stock radiator is for that combo in 67. Whatever you get, I'd recommend a 24 inch radiator.

There are still a handful of old school radiator shops around the country, but you may have to ship it.  Pretty sure there's still one about 5 minutes from my house, but I honestly haven't been there is a long time.  Its definitely become a niche market, because all cars and trucks have used aluminum radiators with plastic end tanks for at least 20 years now, and those are not repairable.

If you are going to go to a larger radiator, or one with say 3 rows of tubes instead of 2, stock is already kind of out of the window.  I would do as suggested and get an aluminum one that maintains a factory appearance.  A coat of radiator paint later and you will be the only one who knows.  

This has a lot of great information about installing the larger 24” radiator that still has pictures:

https://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=12381&p=2



Inlet/outlet right hand side




Inlet/outlet staggered

Last edited by Nos681 (8/31/2025 8:03 AM)

rpm wrote:

They make stick looking aluminium radiators, MS has one. Since your motor is a 351W, I'm not sure what a stock radiator is for that combo in 67. Whatever you get, I'd recommend a 24 inch radiator.

Actually Bob, it's a 289 in the 65. My 68 has the 351W, and I have a custom made 3 row that fit the same hole as the original 6 cylinder radiator and I have never had an overheat in the 68 for 25 years. I still have the receipt for it - 6/22/99 - $379.01! 

 

I have used Service Center Radiator here in Auburn, Ca, a number of times on my 4-core copper radiator.  [url=tel:5308852282](530) 885-2282[/url]).  They Have re-cored my radiator, and fixed tank leaks.   I don't know if they do mail order.  Give them a call.

A stock engine should be able to use a stock radiator, particularly up in cool Washington.    My recollection is that the upper and lower tanks on your 2-core are wider than the core unit.  You could re-core it to 3-core with no space problems.  But my recommendation is to fix it.  Easy-out, easy-in.

Ron68 wrote:

rpm wrote:

They make stick looking aluminium radiators, MS has one. Since your motor is a 351W, I'm not sure what a stock radiator is for that combo in 67. Whatever you get, I'd recommend a 24 inch radiator.

Actually Bob, it's a 289 in the 65. My 68 has the 351W, and I have a custom made 3 row that fit the same hole as the original 6 cylinder radiator and I have never had an overheat in the 68 for 25 years. I still have the receipt for it - 6/22/99 - $379.01! 

 

 
Ten-four. How many dang Mustangs do you own? 😁

Ron68 wrote:

Thanks folks for the responses. I will look them all over and decide what to do. The stock radiator I have in there now uses a four bladed fan that has about an inch clearance  and no shroud, so there is that to consider for an upgrade too. Is there a fan with more blades that has the same diameter as the four bladed fan in case I want to install a shroud? Moving to a 24" radiator will require some sheet metal mods - I will have to think about that. Maybe getting a stock sized (and appearance) one may be the best option for me. I realize I will have to get a shorter fan spacer too. Lots to consider. 

I have about six fans in my shop that need a new home. From flex fan to stock six blade with clutch to a shallow Mustang II fan. All ate 17”. I have new shrouds for the 24”.  Fan would be garage point material for a forum member. Shroud is on swap meet page

BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:

Ron68 wrote:

Got to a show only 10 minutes from the house - got parked and opened the hood - and the bottom of the radiator is leaking somewhere. The lower "tray" is all wet and it is dripping. I can't see a leak anywhere on the core fins on the front or back of the radiator. It is the stock radiator, which was re-cored 40 years ago, and I doubt that there is over 6000 miles on it. Anti freeze is clear and bright green - no rust in system. 
  My options are:
Pull it and have it repaired or re-cored (I was told that no one re-cores anymore) - or -
Replace it. If I do replace it, getting one that looks stock will be very expensive. I would rather keep the original look rather than going with an all aluminum looking one. It would be nice to have one with some additional cooling capacity though. I was in a long parade in July (Seattle Seafair Torchlight Parade) and it did eventually tend to get a bit hot. Stop and go type of parade - when stopped, shifted into neutral and revved the engine for additional cooling. 

Any suggestions on which way to go? (engine is stock with power steering, no shroud, and no AC)
 

what year is and size radiator is in your car now?
 

It is the original radiator that was re-cored 41 years ago. Single row, 16X17. Top of tank has C4ZE Y2 and W-MD 10 64.
 

The 24 looks better than the originals that came in car.

John Ha wrote:

Ron68 wrote:

Got to a show only 10 minutes from the house - got parked and opened the hood - and the bottom of the radiator is leaking somewhere. The lower "tray" is all wet and it is dripping. I can't see a leak anywhere on the core fins on the front or back of the radiator. It is the stock radiator, which was re-cored 40 years ago, and I doubt that there is over 6000 miles on it. Anti freeze is clear and bright green - no rust in system.  

You didn't say you did any troubleshooting so I have to ask whether you're sure it's' the radiator that's leaking?  Could be the water pump or a hose or even coolant that came out the overflow because of an over-filled radiator..  

Water pump is dry, hoses are all tight and dry, no coolant in the overflow and it's hose is on tight, cap is tight and no fluid at the top of the radiator,  no fluid on any of the cooling fins - just fluid at the bottom "tray"area. 
 

Ron68 wrote:

John Ha wrote:

Ron68 wrote:

Got to a show only 10 minutes from the house - got parked and opened the hood - and the bottom of the radiator is leaking somewhere. The lower "tray" is all wet and it is dripping. I can't see a leak anywhere on the core fins on the front or back of the radiator. It is the stock radiator, which was re-cored 40 years ago, and I doubt that there is over 6000 miles on it. Anti freeze is clear and bright green - no rust in system.  

You didn't say you did any troubleshooting so I have to ask whether you're sure it's' the radiator that's leaking?  Could be the water pump or a hose or even coolant that came out the overflow because of an over-filled radiator..  

Water pump is dry, hoses are all tight and dry, no coolant in the overflow and it's hose is on tight, cap is tight and no fluid at the top of the radiator,  no fluid on any of the cooling fins - just fluid at the bottom "tray"area. 
 

My guess would be a failed solder joint between the tank and core.  
 

Ron68 wrote:

...After discussing this with the Guru of Mustang cooling - MS - and his offering me a seven bladed factory style fan with clutch, I decided to go all out. He is sending me the fan - for a garage point - which I have noted on the Garage Point page - and I have ordered an ACP OEM style three row radiator for the 65... 

Good call. Wish I had done the more correct looking install on my '65. However, the ugly square topped 24" aluminum fan, good shroud and MS reco'd 17" flex fan have kept the high compression 422 cid engine cool on 100* drives around the dirty 'No. For my SCJ I had the original radiator re-cored at a local (truck radiatior mostly) shop and it was $500 ish. All things considered the $200 rad Lt. Dan posted and a '67 style hold down would be a much better option than the very aftermarket looking $130 deal I have now. When I revert to better looking FoMoCo finned VCs (and spacers) that might just happen.