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Friend asked if $ no object what front suspension, steering would be best available? 1965 coupe 6. Thoughts.
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I installed a MII R&P steering kit (made by "Rod & Custom") in my 65 Mustang. This eliminates the shock towers also. The total cost for a shop to install was about $6,000, 15 years ago. This kit included a coil-over suspension, with upper and lower tubular control arms.
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If cost was no object is only part of the question. How will the car be used? Recommendations for a cruiser are going to be different than for a thinly veiled track car.
The other thing is that the front suspension is part of the equation. A chassis, like an engine, is all about balance. The parts must work together, or they end up working against each other. These cars are what my neighbor would call "a flexible flyer". The unibody in them is a rubber band. If you don't address unibody stiffness the best suspension in the world is going to be meaningless. Subframe connectors are an absolute must. Some form of roll bar is also a good idea. A shock tower brace is a good idea if you go the route of keeping the shock towers.
Personally I think you can do A LOT within the existing design with springs, shocks, chassis stiffening, the Shelby/Arning drop, etc. I'm not a huge fan of rack and pinion steering in these cars. I think a steering box setup gives better road feel, and a lot of R&P systems compromise turning circle. I'd go electric power steering (EPAS) if I had it to do over again. You could go to a coil over Total Control front system for like $3,500 if you really want to spent a bunch of money.
A Mustang 2 system is a great option, BUT you are going to change the car in a way not easily changed back.
The thing is, you need to figure a budget for the entire car too. Having a great suspension and engine and no money left to buy decent brakes is a terrible place to end up.
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Cost is no object can mean many things! Is he thinking $10,000 is reasonable, or $1,000 is reasonable.
Then you stuck that magic number in the question. Did anyone else notice the SIX in there?
Here is what I would do if I had a six cylinder car and wanted to keep the six.
Install a new steering box -manual is great on a six.
If power desired, go Borgeson.
Rebuild all other components with Moog parts
Install 1” front sway bar.
Shelby drop.
Bilstein shocks on all four.
65-66 v8 front spindles with CSRP original style disc brakes, MustangSteve power brake booster.
8” five lug rear end from a 65-66 v8 Mustang.
15x7 w/4.25 backspacing wheels
215x60/15 tires
IMPORTANT NOTE: if the front spindles are changed to v8 type, all the steering linkage must also be changed to v8 parts or the bumpsteer will make the car feel very unstable at all speeds.
The swap i described will make for a fantastic driving six cylinder coupe, and if a v8 swap is in the future, the car will be set up for it already.
All that fancy stuff like coilovers snd custom this or that is not going to make much improvement to that car. Spend the money on the right stuff like I pointed out and it will make a huge difference without causing all the complications all the custom stuff induced.
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I went with the R&C MII coil over setup. Not because money was no object. It was my cheapest option for my build. Now if money was no object, then I'm not sure what I would go with. It would depend on my plan of use for the build.
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