My take on it is that its shotgunning codes at you.  It "knows" something is wrong, but can't define it exactly.  

Code 11 is system test pass
Code 18 is a spout code, which could mean a couple things, but loss of PIP signal is one of them
Code 33 is an EGR code, I'm assuming the EGR is not present
Code 51 is ECT circuit open
Code 96 is fuel pump circuit open
Code 10 is a cylinder #1 balance test failure, meaning that cylinder #1 isn't contributing to power
Code 44 is another emissions code related to the AIR system, which I'm guessing is no present

Some of these codes could be the result of a bad ground somewhere (open circuit codes).  I would check all your grounds just to be safe.  

After that I'm guessing we can disregard codes 33 and 44, because you aren't running emissions equipment.  

To me the most important code are 18 and 10.  This would seem to indicate a possible ignition problem.  I think I would start by checking the PIP signal.  
 

Does the fuel pump cycle and stop with Key On Engine Off?

If it does not, I would check that first along with all ground connections as mentioned.

Do you have the ground from engine wire harness at the rear of intake manifold?

Hi, yes, fuel pump seems to be ok and is still running for a second after the engine quits although I intend to replace the Fuel Pressure regulator as it is the original one that came on the engine so no idea how old it is. I do also have a new fuel pump that I will install.
Thanks for your reply.

If anyone can recommend a kit for the distributor or a distributor I would be very grateful. My distributor number is:E4ZE-12131-AA. I looked  at Rock Auto but couldn't find a distributor so maybe someone can recommend a pip.
Thank You.

Here are some choices.
Notice the additional cross reference part numbers that can also be used.

I really like this code reader for OBD1 stuff. No more counting flashes.
https://www.innova.com/products/digital-ford-code-reader-1981-1995-3145
 

Last edited by 50vert (7/04/2026 11:43 PM)

So... I ordered two sensors from Rockauto which arrived very quickly and thought my troubles were over. I fitted the new pip sensor to the distributor and refitted the distributor, started up and set the timing. All good for about twenty seconds and then its like someone turned off the ignition. Restarted and ran fine for about two minutes and then again its like the ignition was turned off. 
So it cant possibly be the pip as this is the second one in less than twenty miles. Must be something else.
I did notice that the distributor had lots of up/down play in it so I shimmed the shaft to the correct spec but that has made no difference.
Any ideas before I start trawling through wire diagrams and chasing grounds and resistances?

I suggest checking the wiring and any connectors installed between the ignition switch and the PIP.  
Check both the male and female sides for any poor connection between the two, clean as necessary.