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Has anybody overhere replaced the mounting points off the UCA outwards of the original place?
i like to get as much room as possible
extra info,i have the full TCP coilover system.
want to notch the towers as much as possible.
Tonie
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nobody??
Tonie
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If I understand your question correctly I think you cannot move it at all or at least not more than you would do by adjusting camber and caster using shims if we are talking 65-66 Mustangs. The geometry of the inner attachment point of the UCA together with the upper ball joint, lower ball joint and inner attachment point of the LCA is a parallelogram where moving one corner effects the opposite in this case resulting in negative camber if you were to move the UCA inner attachment point outwards.
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Hakan wrote:
If I understand your question correctly I think you cannot move it at all or at least not more than you would do by adjusting camber and caster using shims if we are talking 65-66 Mustangs. The geometry of the inner attachment point of the UCA together with the upper ball joint, lower ball joint and inner attachment point of the LCA is a parallelogram where moving one corner effects the opposite in this case resulting in negative camber if you were to move the UCA inner attachment point outwards.
Hakan,i fully understand what you say
but if i move the upper arm 1 inch out and i make it 1 inch shorther,imho than geometrie would be the same wouldn't it?
Tonie
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Tonie wrote:
Hakan,i fully understand what you say
but if i move the upper arm 1 inch out and i make it 1 inch shorther,imho than geometrie would be the same wouldn't it?
Tonie
No, the geometry won't be the same. If you shorten the UCA and move its inner attachment point outwards the upper ball joint will travel in a tighter radius than before the modification effecting the camber curve as the suspension travels up and down.
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Tonie, i'm not done with my mod to the 65 yet but i'm getting an extra 1" on each side at the exhaust manifold area and a bunch more higher up! it will be cool because i will be able to change plugs easy and drop the motor in with the headers on and not changing the uca location at all, all i've done is change the stock uca to the GW uca....reason is the ford design is so bulky behind the mounting shaft so they needed that ugly bulge in the tower, i'm making the tower flat across useing 3/16 plate takes care of that and the gw arm mounts nice and flush.... Jim
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jgstang wrote:
Tonie, i'm not done with my mod to the 65 yet but i'm getting an extra 1" on each side at the exhaust manifold area and a bunch more higher up! it will be cool because i will be able to change plugs easy and drop the motor in with the headers on and not changing the uca location at all, all i've done is change the stock uca to the GW uca....reason is the ford design is so bulky behind the mounting shaft so they needed that ugly bulge in the tower, i'm making the tower flat across useing 3/16 plate takes care of that and the gw arm mounts nice and flush.... Jim
Show me some pictures Jim
will show some pictures off my idee this week.
Tonie
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Here is how I did the hump removal on my 66, also using global west upper control arms. If you cut off any deeper than this, you risk a whole lot of shock tower flexing and eventual cracking, assuming using the UCAs on the car.
BOSS 429 cars did move the upper control arms out slightly from stock and used a shorter control arm to compensate.
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The global west uca is already 3/8" shorter than a stocker. That is how they get the more agressive camber curve, like Hakan described. I suppose instead of the 3/8" spacer they supply, you could use 3/8" of some kind of reinforcing structure. If you go cutting out all the shock tower structure in the engine bay, it will eventually crack and the uca will come loose. Some extra bracking outside the engine bay would help.
I have the 351W based 427 in my car and with the shock towers trimmed as shown, I have plenty of room for any maintenance I might need to do. The key is getting the right headers.
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gotta tell you though i like the other mod alot to, looks really clean !! you get alot of room with this one and you can just drop in the motor/headers together and everything is in the original stock mounting position except for 1" drop......remember this is only a mock up and the rodding shops i have talked to say that this 3/16 plate is plenty good, and the way i have it...it should have plenty of strenght..i need to tow it to the shop and have it professionaly welded up after i have the 3/16 plate in place, right now its just 1/16 for mock up it. a BB will fit in there!
Last edited by jgstang (11/26/2013 11:47 PM)
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i'm not sure on what exactly your doing here ? dont mean to sound stupid but i would like to see it and the tower mocked up....looks great so far! Jim
Last edited by jgstang (11/27/2013 5:21 PM)
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Just notched mine today. I also cut the center rib and reboxed it.
Made room to flip my shorties so I can hang a turbo on it.
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cool! but we need to see pics.....!
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That is some mighty fine work you have done. Seems like a long way to go to get the same clearance you could have gotten by just cutting off the four bumps? Or, are you shortening up the length of the upper control arms a bit? Good thing that UCA is adjustable, because you sure can't get any shims back there!
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That is some nice work. Looks like you had some tube laser work done also. They really make quick work of difficult parts.
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I like the way you think Tonie. Nice Fab work also.
Bob
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very nice work indeed! will be looking forward to it fitted to the towers...
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Nice job.
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MustangSteve wrote:
That is some mighty fine work you have done. Seems like a long way to go to get the same clearance you could have gotten by just cutting off the four bumps? Or, are you shortening up the length of the upper control arms a bit? Good thing that UCA is adjustable, because you sure can't get any shims back there!
tnx Steve
The arms will go out a 1/4 of a inch
well steve,its a lot off work to do it this way,but i really like the clean look i will get
plus, i will keep my option open to drop in a coyote lateron( mayby )
nice to hear the comments from all off you,TNX
Tonie
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i'll be waiting for more pics, i'm always open to ideas! did you use a metal brake to bend the big flat plate ?
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