nobody??

Tonie

Hakan wrote:

If I understand your question correctly I think you cannot move it at all or at least not more than you would do by adjusting camber and caster using shims if we are talking 65-66 Mustangs. The geometry of the inner attachment point of the UCA together with the upper ball joint, lower ball joint and inner attachment point of the LCA is a parallelogram where moving one corner effects the opposite in this case resulting in negative camber if you were to move the UCA inner attachment point outwards.

 
Hakan,i fully understand what you say
but if i move the upper arm 1 inch out and i make it 1 inch shorther,imho than geometrie would be the same wouldn't it?

Tonie

Tonie, i'm not done with my mod to the 65 yet but i'm getting an extra 1" on each side at the exhaust manifold area and a bunch more higher up!  it will be cool because i will be able to change plugs easy and drop the motor in with the headers on and not changing the uca location at all, all i've done is change the stock uca to the GW uca....reason is the ford design is so bulky behind the mounting shaft so they needed that ugly bulge in the tower, i'm making the tower flat across useing 3/16 plate takes care of that and the gw arm mounts nice and flush.... Jim

Here is how I did the hump removal on my 66, also using global west upper control arms.  If you cut off any deeper than this, you risk a whole lot of shock tower flexing and eventual cracking, assuming using the UCAs on the car.
BOSS 429 cars did move the upper control arms out slightly from stock and used a shorter control arm to compensate.

The global west uca is already 3/8" shorter than a stocker.  That is how they get the more agressive camber curve, like Hakan described.  I suppose instead of the 3/8" spacer they supply, you could use 3/8" of some kind of reinforcing structure.  If you go cutting out all the shock tower structure in the engine bay, it will eventually crack and the uca will come loose.  Some extra bracking outside the engine bay would help.

I have the 351W based 427 in my car and with the shock towers trimmed as shown, I have plenty of room for any maintenance I might need to do.  The key is getting the right headers.

gotta tell you though i like the other mod alot to, looks really clean !!  you get alot of room with this one and you can just drop in the motor/headers together and everything is in the original stock mounting position except for 1" drop......remember this is only a mock up and the rodding shops i have talked to say that this 3/16 plate is plenty good, and the way i have it...it should have plenty of strenght..i need to tow it to the shop and have it professionaly welded up after i have the 3/16 plate in place, right now its just 1/16 for mock up it. a BB will fit in there!

Last edited by jgstang (11/26/2013 11:47 PM)

i'm not sure on what exactly your doing here ?  dont mean to sound stupid but i would like to see it and the tower mocked up....looks great so far!     Jim

Last edited by jgstang (11/27/2013 5:21 PM)

cool!  but we need to see pics.....!

That is some mighty fine work you have done.  Seems like a long way to go to get the same clearance you could have gotten by just cutting off the four bumps?  Or, are you shortening up the length of the upper control arms a bit?  Good thing that UCA is adjustable, because you sure can't get any shims back there!

I like the way you think Tonie. Nice Fab work also.

Bob

Nice job.

Made a jig,that will follow the plate i made

will mark from the inside,then drill little holes on the line
and mask it with tape from the inside along the holes

what will give a spoton fitment,i hope

Tonie