Looks like you know what you're doing there Lance.  Nothing like doing your own work.  Best part is when it goes rumpity-rump.

BB

Why would we think its boring, we like pictures!   My only advice is when you put those pistons back in, notice one side of the rods has chamfers, and the other side is straight.   Machinists have been known to mess that up when pressing the rods on the pistons.  Double check all the little things like that!

I would suppose you did not remove the rods from the pistons on this teardown, so if there was a problem, it would have been there for a while anyhow.  

Pistons in place, paired lifters sitting in place on the cam.  Before you call me out on it, we were debating about leaving the paired lifters in this orientation.  The connecting bars clear everything, and actually seem more "out of the way".  However, every time I've ever seen them pictured, the connection segment, was oriented away from the cylinder, so that's ultimately what I did. 



Again, the pairs of connected lifters were ultimately oriented 180 from how they are pictured.



The underside of the Windsor Jr. heads.  Man they rust fast!  All valves and seats were re-ground just because we were there, why not?



Here are the upgraded springs.  The oldies were not what we had ordered, but these are rated at over 200 lbs, so they should do the trick.  The shop chose to mill the sping platform into the head a bit to keep them from standing too tall.  Intake and exhaust ports were matched by yours truly... I had never done that before.  Not sure how much difference it made, but it was done.



Last night, we torqued down the heads using marine gaskets on the block.  Placed the push rods and torqued down the 1.7 roller rockers.  Didn't get a picture of that yet.  There are so many details, (like the piston rod bevel orientation), that you can get wrong if you're not super careful.  If I didn't have someone that had done this hundreds of times, I can guarantee you this would be all kids of broken before I ever cranked it over.  Thank God for good friends!

 

I tend, mostly out of ignorance, to write that off as the manufacturer trying to make one part fit multiple applications.  Then I say a little prayer that I'm right.

Lance, a good time  to install a new balancer...jj

Lance wrote:

Time for a lesson... If everything were smooth before, and all the same components are going back in, why a new balancer? You may have thought some of these were new goodies. I had him straighten two rods that were barely bent from the hydro locking, and the valve springs are new. I bet I misled you as if this were a new build. If I do need a new balancer, please explain. I appreciate you looking out for me.

I didn't take pictures because my fingers were black, but the engine was buttoned up enough I painted it on the stand tonight. Satin black.

By the way, my machinist recognized the windage tray and oil pan as being off a boss 302. Isn't that weird!

Lance

 Lance the reason I mentioned a new balancer is the typical original type balancers can become unclocked giving you a false timing setting....jj

Today was Easter Sunday... Sunny and 78° here in O'Fallon, IL. So, I took the car out for a more thorough flogging this afternoon.  Been slowly working out the bugs for the last week or so.  This was the day I meant to treat it like we tend to drive it and see if it would handle it. I'm ready to declare my mustang is back and stronger than I remember.

The heads were shaved just a bit, and I wouldn't have imagined it would make a difference, but the low end was a tad stronger. The top end glided up to 7 grand with no vibration, and it was still pushing. Gone are the limitations of the lighter springs.  I may never know what might limit it now, the hydraulic cam, some of you have said.  I'll never have it up there to find out. As many of you have said, there's just no need to spin that fast. But it is fun!

The hydraulic clutch and internal throughout bearing works like a dream. I've got it adjusted to engage right where I want it to being careful not to allow any pre-load. Took forever to bleed!  I've posted pics on a host site, but this site doesn't cooperate well with my iPad.  I'll post them later. Just wanted to thank you all for your support and keep you in the loop.

Lance

I never quite know how to manage all the wires.  Some of you have such neat and clean engine bays.  Not even my plug wires look orderly.



Note the reservoir on the far side above the washer fluid sack.  Going back together, the pulleys gave me more trouble than anything else.  The AC belt kept crawling off.  I had to shim around on things to get them to track correctly.


The pedals all look even and clean.  I depress the clutch pedal about 3/4" before I hit anything remotely solid.  I guess it's the rubber boot on the clutch master that holds it all the way out.

The picture is obviously a little crooked, but this is the clutch master lever canted off the side of the clutch pedal.  It uses the factory hole in the pedal, and requires a new trio of holes just under the electrical plug in the firewall.  This was the most tedious portion of the hydraulic conversion.  I hate crawling under that dash!




Anyway, thanks again for all the help.  I'm really struggling with whether I want to mess with such a well running car to play with the EFI manifold.  I'd have fun with the complete control of tuning a PCM, but can't imagine it running more smoothly than this setup.  I've got all summer to think about it.

Hey Sal,  This one's for you... Direct from the Summit Racing site where I bought it.  I don't speak cam like you do, but here it is.  I believe this is built for 1.6 Rockers but I have 1.7 instead.

Last edited by Lance (4/21/2014 5:17 AM)

Lance, there should have been a "Cam Card" come with the cam.  It will have a bunch of useful info.  If your springs are the ones specified, the real important bit of info - "Valve Float RPM" - will be valid no matter what ratio rocker arms you use.  If you exceed that RPM, things will get expensive fast.
Seeing what you've done to that engine, it ought to be a strong runner.  Lookin' good.
Enjoy

I am running on Granada spindles, and followed the advice of the Granada groupies out there in the "inter-web".  As I recall, the brake master was from a 74 Gremlin or something similar, and the booster was borrowed from a 2001 V-6 Mustang or similar.  I should really check on this stuff BEFORE I start answering questions.  The install of the clutch master was super tight with that booster.  In fact, I chose to slot the four pedal web and booster mounting holes as well as the pass-thru for the brake rod inboard about 1/4" so the two weren't leaning on one another.  If you need me to ID that booster more precisely, let me know.  I'll do some digging and see what I can come up with.  I believe I bought Steve's plans, which may be how I stumbled onto his wonderful forum.

Lance

I bought a kit from Modern Driveline that included their neat little levering mechanism that atatched to the existing clutch pedal, a master cylinder, (one easily replaced, not purpose built), lines, and a clutch bearing, whether you decide to an internal throwout bearing or an external lever pusher.  Kit was complete, instructions were adequate.  The only thing that made it complicated was me.  It was really fairly easy.  Go to his website where he gives a pretty good description of why he built the thing the way he did.  Pretty well thought out.  Of course, time will tell how well the thing holds up!

Lance

Lance wrote:

Well last night the Mustang engine breathed it's first breaths after the rebuild.  Getting the engine in there was a challenge.  I hadn't dropped the transmission or exhaust when removing the engine, so getting it back in there was unusually difficult.  Spent at least 45 minutes on something that should have taken five.  Ended up disconnecting the exhaust hangers and scooting it back in tact to get the flanges out of the way.  Powered up the electric fuel pump and cranked it over... It started almost like it haadn't been apart.  A few minor differences though, it sounded "crisper", if that makes any sense.  The only difference is the valve springs being double the tension, and the new oil pump, just because.  Didn't take it out and run it because we didn't have the cooling system running yet.  Oil pressure was 75-80 even at idle, and that with 10W-30 oil.  Bill used a painter's pressure pot to prime the engine with filtered oil through the oil pressure sensor port.  I thought that was clever.  The Hydraulic throwout bearing is operational and feels good, although it's awfully close to the floor.  Will need to tweak that adjustment a bit.  Worked like a charm in the garage back and fourth.  All in all, it was a good evening!








Tonight we'll complete the re-assembly and take it out for it's maiden voyage.  I'll let you know how that goes.  Wish me luck!

     How many shims did the hydraulic bearing take?   How do you bleed the bearing?  Thanks Steve69