YES BUT (notice:  I didn't use BUTT)  on the brighter side my new shocks work great, car is now nice and smoooothh.  Nothing like a day with a lift and ac.      

MustangSteve wrote:

The neat thing about a MSD Atomic EFI is the handheld screen that tells fuel pressure and alot of other good info.  Today, the car quit running twice.  Once while getting on it real hard on an entrance ramp.  Took forever to restart, and did not think to look at the handheld to see what pressure was.  After about 10 minutes, it started and ran fine.  Then later, just idling through a parking lot, it died again and the handheld showed 7 psi.  Would not restart for about 10 minutes, and then the pump went to and held 40 psi.  Very odd behavior but now I am afraid to even drive it for fear of having to tow it home.

I WISH I HAD NEVER INSTALLED THAT ATOMIC EFI SYSTEM.

ATOMIC = Add Tons Of Money In Cash.

Not very happy with it.  Idle is a constant flow of raw gas that vaporizes as it hits the FOUR butterflies and it surges as the fuel is evaporated and refreshed.  I finally got the fuel pump located low enough so it no longer howls.  Seems like it would either pump or it wouldn't.  Intermittent problems are hell to diagnose.

Seriously thinking carb is the solution, but I really hate to admit defeat.  I need to set it up so the computer controls the timing also, but that takes MORE PARTS and MORE CASH.  That is supposed to make it run better.  But the fuel pump thing makes me think I am going to have to spend another $500 to get a pump that is in the tank, plus the cost of a new 70 gas tank.  My existing tank was one of the last NOS Ford tanks and I hate to give it up.

Not happy with ATOMIC EFI, in case anyone missed that point.

You know, your engine is big enough you could go with dual fours.  That would be nice. 
 

I wonder if having the fuel pump mounted higher up, earlier on has shortened its life span?

MustangSteve wrote:

Not happy with ATOMIC EFI, in case anyone missed that point.

That's why it's hard to beat the original Ford EFI from the Fox cars.  You know Ford spent many millions of dollars and had some brilliant minds put that system together.  I've owned many EECIV cars and never had any problems with the injection, despite no maintenance and many many miles, and they *always* passed emissions.

John

Edit: the last EECIV I owned was an 87 Aerostar with about 250K miles on it's 3.0 OHV V6.  It sat in my yard over two years almost forgotten when somebody I knew needed a cheap mule for construction work.  One cold rainy fall night I picked up a junkyard battery and threw it in the van and turned the key.  In less than two seconds it started and ran as smoothly and quietly as it did before I abandoned it.  The guy registered it, took it to emissions, and ran that van another two years before the AOD quit.
 

Today, I ordered a new 22 gallon gas tank, the Phantom 200 kit and a bunch of AN fittings for $671.00 worth of stuff.  Also ordered a new adjustable distributor rotor so I can go ahead and set it up where the MSD Atomic EFI computer controls the timing.  This brings the total spent on this system to about $3400.  I cannot imagine how it could possibly be worth that in the long run.

Thanks for the input, 66fastback.  Now that I have heard your story, I may go ahead and risk going to the car show tomorrow.

The last time the car died, the tank was full and I was going about 4 MPH. 

The fuel pump puts out plenty of pressure when running, so I don't think the pump is damaged.  It has a return system and I am not getting any cavitation codes.  I did pick up a FUEL PRESSURE code, but it was one where it said it had remedied itself within the last 10 start cycles.

Hopefully the new in-tank system will do the trick.  It is very frustrating to burn rubber all through second gear and then pull over dead and let everyone pass by...

I understand the logic of an intank pump, I really do, to the extent that my FB has a Tanks Inc. sump and intank pump.
However, for years F-150s and a bunch of early EFI passenger cars like tbirds and cougars had frame rail mounted pumps with EFI. 
Never heard of them leaving people on the side of the road.
Not being argumentative, because I agree with the logic, just wondering why it worked for those cars and not an early car converted to EFI....

MustangSteve wrote:

Today, I ordered a new 22 gallon gas tank, the Phantom 200 kit and a bunch of AN fittings for $671.00 worth of stuff.  Also ordered a new adjustable distributor rotor so I can go ahead and set it up where the MSD Atomic EFI computer controls the timing.  This brings the total spent on this system to about $3400.  I cannot imagine how it could possibly be worth that in the long run.

Thanks for the input, 66fastback.  Now that I have heard your story, I may go ahead and risk going to the car show tomorrow.

The last time the car died, the tank was full and I was going about 4 MPH. 

The fuel pump puts out plenty of pressure when running, so I don't think the pump is damaged.  It has a return system and I am not getting any cavitation codes.  I did pick up a FUEL PRESSURE code, but it was one where it said it had remedied itself within the last 10 start cycles.

Hopefully the new in-tank system will do the trick.  It is very frustrating to burn rubber all through second gear and then pull over dead and let everyone pass by...

Is this why  Tubo went to a sump tank (and pump) when he went FI?
Swhy I like cargi-ma-rators!!
6sal6
 

Hopefully this will end your frustrations.
Best of Luck!!

The old 22 gallon tank will go on my bash car.  If I ever find the right one.

MustangSteve wrote:

Update on the fuel pump situation:
Adjusted the fuel pressure regulator from 40 PSI to 60 PSI.
Removed possibly restrictive section of 3/8" line between tank and pump.  Might have kinked under suction.

Car no longer dies under hard acceleration.  Pump runs reasonably quiet.  Have not tried this combination with tank less than 1/4 full.  New tank and in-tank pump will be here this week, so it will get replaced anyway.

Next is to calibrate the Autometer gauge and the fuel level sending unit.  Right now the gauge reads less than 1/4 tank when it only takes 8-10 gallons to refill the 22 gallon tank.  Ramses' old gas tank is giving its life for a new gauge calibration device so I can install a sender and then add water and adjust manually through what used to be the top of the tank.

Have you tried BB's Gas Gauge Gage?  I sent you a copy some years ago.  A couple of guys say it works pretty well.  It was calibrated from my old cut-up tank.

Of course, you will have to read instructions.

BB

Mach1_Ron wrote:

Bullet Bob wrote:

Have you tried BB's Gas Gauge Gage?  I sent you a copy some years ago.  A couple of guys say it works pretty well.  It was calibrated from my old cut-up tank.

Of course, you will have to read instructions.

BB

Can you email one to me? rshuskins@gmail.com

 

On the waaaaaaaaaaay.

MustangSteve wrote:

BB, I made a template from your plans and made it from cardboard.  I think the problem is that I have am aftermarket gauge.  It is supposed to be for Fords having the same resistance at full and empty but I will have to verify.

I am a hands on type, so I think my best bet is to cut the top out of the old tank, bolt the sender in place and then ground the tank to my car and run a test wire to my sender wire.  Then I can add a gallon at a time and bend the rod to calibrate the sender as needed.  I just want it to be on "E" when there is two gallons of gas in the tank.

Understand about "hands on"...that's why I did the Gauge Gage, and why I'm going to the shop right now to start cuttting custom pushrods, and why I...well, you know.  And the way you're going is absolutly the best, most accurate way.

BB

Last edited by Bullet Bob (6/09/2014 7:30 PM)