| ||
| Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
Offline

Hallelujah! It runs so much better than the Atomic EFI at idle and at 2,000 RPM which is my cruise RPM. I have not driven it yet, but the engine's manners seem alot better. It starts quicker and easier.
I can fix it if anything goes wrong. That is a big plus. NOBODY could fix the atomic efi when it decided to just flame out without warning whenever it felt like it.
Now I have a very expensive box of take-off parts sitting on the garage floor.
I got the gas tank gasket (o-ring) replaced and used an old original retainer ring for the sender today, and it fit alot tighter than the one that was in it. No more gas leaks now.
Offline

IHOP in the morning for a test drive and breakfast...........
Offline

I have to fabricate a new air cleaner hold down gizmo. I gave my other one to Ramses. The one for the EFI did not have to clear a choke horn. I have a new and improved design in mind. This is for the COBRA oval air cleaner with two wingnuts at the top.
Offline

Glad to hear it.
Offline
You sound like a new Man MS!
Glad its running better for you!
Steve69
Offline

Finally drove the new carb today. This is like a new car. It has never run this good in the 22 years I have owned the car. The carb starts at the touch of the key, where the EFI had to crank a second or two. It idles smoother, cruises smoother at low RPM and the driveability is better, probably dues to 670 CFM rather than 1,000 CFM throttle body. Feels like power is as good or better.
I even swapped in a new vacuum advance MSD distributor. I had MSD mechanical advance in it. Should improve driveability but can't really tell by seat of the pants. Of course, it is 1/4" taller than the old one and messed up the clearance for my Cobra air cleaner. A new 289 Hipo air cleaner does not clear the hood at all. The cobra oval will at least let the hood close, but I think it is in constant contact as evidenced by the wear marks under the hood.
The car is like new to me now. Runs great, idles smoother and at lower RPM and is simpler to work on. How could I beat that?
Offline
Well at least I can officially take EFI off the list of things I might want to do in the future. A lot of money for a bit better mileage and easier cold starts. And a lot more stuff to go wrong. I have never had a problem with my keep it simple carb. I feel better having that off my list of things to do. Now I can get back to my new rack and pinion, electric power steering, new wiring, battery to the trunk, complete engine compartment repaint and update, 87 mustang seats with TMI pony upholstery, lower seat pans, new gauge cluster and gauges, Mustang Steve clutch pedal bearing install, dash repaint, complete interior sound deadening. And to think that this all started with some door gap alignment and a new hood. I really need to take the time to learn how to up load pictures.
Offline

MustangSteve wrote:
I have to fabricate a new air cleaner hold down gizmo. I gave my other one to Ramses. The one for the EFI did not have to clear a choke horn. I have a new and improved design in mind. This is for the COBRA oval air cleaner with two wingnuts at the top.
Sounds like it's time for a "Shaker" ! ![]()
Offline

Drove to a cruise-in over in Mansfield tonight. Got to check out real world driving conditions. It was cold and rainy. The Vintage Air defreoster works great. Wish I could say the same about my wipers. Well, they actually do work pretty well, until I try to shut them off. They keep going until the key is turned off, and then they will park themselves nearly every time. No desire to open up the dash to get to the motor and wiper transmission. Something is sticking.
Gotta rejet that carb though. I can still smell it, and I have been in the house for 30 minutes. EFI did not smell, but the carb got me home. More than I can say for EFI. Will get that fixed next week.
Offline
Nice,, now leave it alone until after cruise,,, FOR xODS SAKE LEAVE IT ALONE.
Offline
Steve, Can you share your new COBRA air cleaner hold down plan? I have to do mine on the 351W soon.
Offline

MS - this is how I solved my 65 w/351W and stock, no scoop, hood ...
Base: stock Hi-Po style 14" round
Filter: K&N # E-2859 (1.5" high)
Top: Summitt SUM-239501 (filter style)
It was still a tight fit, had to use a regular 1/4-20 nut for hold down, but an acorn style nut would work.
Hope this helps.
Offline

I ordered a Holley 14" drop-base air cleaner that I plan to use with the 289 Hipo top. I looked at the one on Ron's car and it has the filter sitting about 1-1/4" lower than the hipo filter, which is actually raised up above the top of the carb by 1/4". That should solve it.
Thanks for the input. I sure hate to lose my Cobra oval air cleaner, but life moves on, I guess. Maybe someday it will get a fiberglass Shelby hood, but the steel structure would still interfere.
Offline

Ernest wrote:
Steve, Can you share your new COBRA air cleaner hold down plan? I have to do mine on the 351W soon.
Made from 1/2" square boxed tubing and two pieces of 1" x 1/8" x 5" long pieces of flat barstock. I used to have similar but only with about 1" long pieces at the end. With the aircleaner base shaved so it is just a flat plate, it seemed to want to bend in the middle when the wingnuts on top were tightened. The long pieces spread the load out farther so it holds it down past the end of the carb. No making fun of my other mods to get it to fit a dual line Holley. They were done in 1992 before I became a "professional" LOL.
The bolt shown in the picture is NOT the final threaded fastener used. I used a Grade 8, 1/4" bolt, but welded a washer to the threaded part as it comes out the bottom of the cross piece. That keeps the bolt securely in the box tubing even if it were to back out of the carb somehow. The bolt is captive and cannot fall out when the air cleaner is removed.
I also made a little T-handled wrench that has a 7/16" socket on one end and a custom fits-only-Ford-air-cleaner-wingnuts spanner on the other end. I can keep that in the console so I always have the right tools to remove the air cleaner.
And now I am not even going to be able to use it !
Offline
why cant you make one of these? Maybe even using that round reduced based air cleaner bottom spliced into it? 
Offline
The suspense is killing me??? So, what carb. Did you use?
Offline
Ahhh. Figured it out. So, Holley 670. So did you keep the 66 jets or go with the 67?
Offline

66 jets are still in. My original plan was to drop the bas of the air cleaner like that. I cannot use a drop-base air cleaner like that one because my distributor is about 1/8" taller than the top of the Holley carb. Even the perfectly flat plate base of the cobra air cleaner is jammed against the plug wires atop the distributor. MSD pro-billet unit is too tall, even about 1/2" taller than the old mechanical MSD billet distributor that was on it. Can't win.
Offline

If anyone is looking for a LOW PROFILE Air Cleaner Hold down.... I use this one on the Mach... No Tools needed
Works and Looks G R E A T!!!!!!
Offline

How does it work, Ron?
Offline

MustangSteve wrote:
How does it work, Ron?
Has a part that you put in the Air Cleaner top...permanent. A Ball type Stud goes in the Carb and then the top just clicks on to it and locks. You just push the center and it releases. Awesome piece and nothing is above your air cleaner top, like a wing nut or something.
This link shows it a lot cleaere...
Last edited by Mach1_Ron (9/15/2014 3:27 PM)
Offline
Looks to me like it would work like an air chuck????
| REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |