No problemo!  Any combination of balance weight pullys AND flywheel/flexpates, for the early configuration are readily available.  Forget the heads that you mentioned and get a late pushrod Explorer motor with either GT40 or GT40P heads. Once you strip off the fuel injection and carburate it, it will blow you away.

Last edited by boomyal (1/09/2015 12:18 AM)

The AOD flexplate is no problem.  Just use one from a 50 ounce 5.0.

The Summit balancer previously mentioned is a good piece.  Some of their pulley spacers are kind of flimsy, but you can machine a small part to make it more substantial.

Since you have the C80 heads with 53cc chambers, why not run them?  Those heads have the larger 351W valve sizes in them?  Yes, the Explorer Gt40 heads will make more power, but at a cost.  I guess that just depends on your budget.  I like the smaller chambers for more compression and quench characteristics.  I am running 58CC AFR heads on my 427W.  Keith Craft Racing said their dyno tests show more power using a dish piston and smaller head volume than vice-versa.  Head flow is a huge science and I am no scientist, but I have used those C80 heads before and they made plenty of power for a street machine.  If you have to spend money to have them rebuilt, consider the GT40 heads which are a proven performer on a 5.0.  You will need to block off the thermactor holes if using later model heads.  Threaded plugs are available that allow fitment of early accessory bolts into the threaded plugs.

Don't forget your distributor drive gear needs to be a steel gear. Summit sells them and it is pretty easy to swap out the gear on an existing distributor, or order a Duraspark II from Autozone for an 85 Mustang.  It has the gear already on it.

Ramses used stock 90 GT 5.0 short block in his 65.  Without all the restrictive converters from the 90, the cam sounds real nice with even a tiny lope noticeable.  Great budget build that is real dependable.

I think it would be great for everyone to mail Ramses a shiny new lug nut.  Maybe then he could install the correct amount. 
Sorry to hijack the thread. Don, cut that out.

I'm running an 87 302 HO roller with stock heads.  I bought it as a long block and finished it off with acc from my 65 289.  It has plenty of power for me! and sounds great running thru shortie headers and flowmaster 40s!

whitestang wrote:

Thanks everybody for your advice. I'm especially interested in Terrys reply. He has done exactly what I want to do, which is to use all of the 289 accessories and v-belts. 

thats what i figured so you can do what i suggested if you want.
 

Whitestang  I ordered a new flexplate and harmonic from Summit the harmonic has several bolt holes in front to accept various pulleys. I think this is the one I used.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-163302/overview/make/ford

A couple things I had issue with,  The timing chain cover!  there are a half a dozen or more that are made for a sbf.  My original idea was to try to keep my OEM 289 block as complete as possible when I took out as it was going in storage.  I bought a used timing chain cover and when I got it it would not fit as the housing was not deep enough for the impeller on the water pump it wanted to rub.  I think I ended up using the one off my 289.  its been 2 maybe 3 years now so dont remember exactly the solution.  Another problem I had was the cam to drive the mech fuel pump.  I now know there is a two piece cam to use on the later blocks.  At the time I did not know that and ended up going with a electric fuel pump.  More on that story if needed!!

You do have to use an older oil pan as the newer ones have rear sump and you need a front sump.  This means you have to relocate the dipstick from the side of the block to the front.  The newer blocks are drilled to have the dipstick come up between  #7 and #8 spark plug  and since the sump has been changed to the front you need to plug that hole ( I tapped mine and plugged it, some people drive a wood plug in that hole) you then have to bring the dipsick up thru the timing chain cover.  

Another thing if you go to a roller cam you have to be sure you have the correct drive gear on the distributor.  I believe it has to be a steel gear and flat tappet cams use a cast gear?

I'm writing all this strictly from memory (that's scary)  so if I've misstated something I'm sure someone will correct me, I apologize in advance!!
 

ok, per terry's post.

the 66 thru 69 timing covers are exactly the same except that the early covers had a 1" long aluminum post sticking out of the left side for the riming marker . . this cover is hard to find but the covers if these years that do not have the post use a bolt on metal timing marker which is in the same timing position as the post so it works fine.


  the timing chain is different from the 5.0 and non 5.0 engines . . if you run an electric fuel pump the 5.0 chain is fine but you need to put a plate over the hole for the mechanical fuel pump on the esarly cover.

if you run a mechanical fuel pump then buy the non 5.0 chain and single cam for the mechanical pump.

 

Barnett468 correct me if I'm wrong. You are saying I could use a 289 timing chain and the fuel pump cam on the 5.0 Thank You

  Whitestang, This is the rest of the story that I didn' t include on my previous post!!  anyway water under the bridge!  I just brought it to you attention so you didnt go thru the crap I did!

.    My engine was a 87 roller 5.0 long block and the timing set was already on.  it had the oil slinger on it.  I tried putting the cam on the front of the gear but the dowel was too long and I couldnt get an answer as to the proper cure for the problem so I went ahead with the build and blocked off the hole and am running an electric fuel pump!  If I had the info that is posted above I would be running a mech fuel pump!!!

About the timing cover, well I bought a used one from another member and when it arrived I put the gasket on and RTV and mounted the cover over the timing gears.  I then proceeded to mount the water pump.  It wouldn't fit the timing cover wasnt deep enough for the impeller was hitting the housing before it sealed up.  I was then told there were 5 or 6 covers that fit the front of those engine blocks.  I ended up taking the timing cover off my 289 and used it.  IF all the timing covers are the same then the used housing should have fit with my existing water pump IT DIDN'T go figure!  any way I still have that timing cover!!

 

Last edited by terry (1/11/2015 8:30 PM)