Hornman wrote:

Why are you even asking about the 70 brake lines when the big Mustang parts suppliers have brand new prebent brake lines to fit your car? You will have to make the MC to prop valve lines and probably a short connector from the prop valve to the wheel lines. Nobody makes those lines to buy. If you really want Ultrastang quality brake lines, buy him a plane ticket.

All the prebent lines to fit my car will fit the GT single bowl m/c and the separate distribution block for the front discs and prop valve for the rear drums.  I am going to the dual bowl m/c and 70 combo valve.  (Old KH prop valve failed & I lost all brakes) All the little bends for the 65 prebent line kits dont match to the dual bowl m/c and combo valve, and its all those little bends by the mc that test my patience, skills, and vocabulary.  If I can find a set of prebent lines that look presentable under the hood, I can adjust/adapt at the wheels.

Tim, I can sympathize with you on your plight, I replaced the MC and prop valve on my 65 this spring with a dual bowl and 70 prop valve. I jumped in to bend up all the connecting tubing only to find that my tubing skills have deteriorated since last time. I ended up killing three feet of tubing for every foot that made it onto the car. I got everything installed and plumbed and it only took about ten times as long as I thought it should, but I did it. My point in my earlier post was that the tubing pieces you need are not on a shelf, they are in a roll of tubing. Someone, preferably you, has to pull your parts out of that roll of tubing. Buy yourself a roll of Cunifer and things will get easier.

70 lines will be totally different from the pv to the front and rear wheels.  They will also be different from the pv to the mc since the 70 had a booster, so that should rule them out entirely.

The only way is a custom set of tubes.
In my opinion, making your own from new tubing is always better than trying to fit prebent stuff unless yiur car is box stock original.  They bend the new ones in half to ship them, so you start out with a messed up brake line from the beginning.

To get it right, use a coathanger wire and make a template. With a small lever type bender clamped in yiur vise, bend the tube to match the wire. It is not difficult. If you want, send me the bent coathanger wire and some fittings and I will make the two tubes.

Only reason I offer is because I got my feelings hurt when I was not included in the professional tube bender society.   😂. Probably because I don't post pics every time I make a new brake line.

All right. all right, all right..... acknowledgement: no easy button here.  I can do this, and the scrap metal guys will be hovering at the end of the driveway, lol.  Next time you see the car, my relative success will be measured by the Don method..... hood open or hood closed.  Suggestions & encouragement appreciated.

lowercasesteve - I like your car, and a recent mention that you have 600,000 miles on that thing. Amazing.  I have 200,000 on 2 of the DD's in our family.  I can't imagine what it would take to get 600,000 on one.  Keep up the good work.  I like the front valance, and your Lincoln wheels.

Also...MS doesn't like the green poly-coated tubing but I find it real easy to work with and I don't mind the businesslike look.   Or, per MS, you can shoot it with a coat of aluminum paint before installation and it looks great...until some brake fluid touches it.

BB

In reference to flexible/braided lines;

Flexible lines are necessary at some points of the vehicle, such as at the pivot points of the suspension in going from the hard lines out to the brake components.

If the brake system is sealed, how can moisture still get into it? That's easy, the molecules of brake fluid, which is a synthetic composition, are too large to leak out through the pores of the flexible lines.

The molecules of humidity and moisture in the air, however, is smaller and will eventually penetrate the pores of the flexible hoses and accumulate in the brake system. This is why, over time, moisture accumulates in the brake system, lowers the dry boiling point of the brake fluid and also begins to cause brake component problems if the brake fluid (DOT 3, 4 or 5.1) isn't changed regularly (every 18-24 months).

Moisture will also get past the seal on the MC lid.

The more flexible lines you have on your vehicle, the greater the surface area is present where moisture can get in.

If you live in a high humidity area, you may consider changing your brake fluid more often than the 18-24 month interval, if also running flexible lines to the MC.

The moral to the story is, flexible MC lines make it easier/faster to run and connect them but, more 'metal' in the brake system and the minimum amount of rubber/flexible line in it means a slower rate of moisture accumulation in the system.

Without the added flexible lines, brake systems can easily absorb up to 2% moisture content per year.

Jim67FB wrote:

I don't know if anyone has brought this up but some of the most user friendly brake line out there is the copper/nickel alloy stuff they sell at Carquest and NAPA. Some people call it soft stainless. Bends easy, flares easy and doesn't rust. It'll make someone who has trouble with brake lines look like a miracle worker. It does have a pinkish, copper hue to it but worth it for ease of use. It comes in standard lengths and in rolls. Use this stuff once and you'll fall in love.

I agree with that. I too tried making brake lines for the Mach, Steve came over and gave some Excellent pointers and demos. I don't have a lift and we could not access under the car. I finally opted to take it to a Local Shop and have them run the lines I needed. I used the stock kit for the Front Lines, put them on myself, but needed Front to Back and Rear Side to side done. They used the Copper/Nickel Lines and the turned out to my liking and look good...well what you can see anyways.

The green stuff is all that is available around here.  I like the way it bends and flares, just not the way it looks.  I need to try that other copper looking stuff some time.  Tim, if you were here, we would have new lines on there in no time.  I prefer to teach you to fish rather than just feed you, though.

MustangSteve wrote:

The green stuff is all that is available around here.  I like the way it bends and flares, just not the way it looks.  I need to try that other copper looking stuff some time.  Tim, if you were here, we would have new lines on there in no time.  I prefer to teach you to fish rather than just feed you, though.

MS, thanks for the very kind offers, but I hate to stand around and let someone else work on my car, unless it is Jr., and I'm trying to teach him to fish.....

I used the coathanger / green stuff approach on the 66, and it turned out ok, but this 65 is such a time capsule, that I want everything I do to look like it's always been there, and the green stuff doesn't fit in.  I'll try the alternate stuff, as recommended.

Now to clean & paint the apron & m/c area of the firewall.  Should be driving by the weekend, unless work gets in the way.