13james13 wrote:

Hello Mustangers. Its pulling to the right but my left front brake is over heating. I have left side slightly tighter than the right to prevent pulling to the right. But after 3 years, left is over heating. What do you recommend?

I know yall love upgrading to disc, but I'm hoping for a quick fix.
Thanks,James.

Sounds like sticking wheel cylinders,and or poor adjustment,return springs....jj

Last edited by jerseyjoe (11/21/2015 8:39 AM)

The distribution block is only affected by front to back differences in pressure, so that is not the problem.
Be sure the larger of the two shoes is on the rear of the assembly. The diagram below shows it as the SECONDARY shoe, which has a longer lining on it.

Check that all springs are properly installed like jj suggested.
 
Replace both wheel cylinders.  This is the most likely problem, although older hoses can sometimes clog up internally.  They will allow pressure to go TO the brakes, but will not let enough come backwards to release the pressure.

Be sure there is no grease or oil contamination on the shoes.

This picture shows how it should be, but if you look close you will spot the shoe guide missing at the top.





You been driving it like that for three years?  Discs, my friend.  It is the "thing of the future".

If the pulling ONLY OCCURS DURING BRAKING, also inspect strut rod bushings and upper control arm bushings as these can cause a camber change when braking which can also cause it to pull.

When front braking is marginal or when experiencing a pull don't forget the rear brakes.  You may be compensating for a pull in front that is induced by a rear brake that is working too much or another that isn't contributing at all.  A lot of the old VW beetle sand-buggy conversions used rear-wheel braking as a turning aid.  You can't really test the rear for a pull with the e-brake as the cable setup does not exercise the hydraulic system but it may reveal a locked brake or significant mis-adjustment.  You may also need to look at the arc/arch of the front shoes with respect to the drums.  In some cases with wear of one or the other (shoe or drum) you may only have limited contact between the shoe surface and the drum.  If the arc is too small it may only contact a patch at the middle of the shoe and if the arc is to big, the shoe may only make contact at each end.  If you want to keep the drums, I think you may want to just start fresh with new shoes, re-ground drums that are still in spec, and re-arching if necessary.  As Steve suggests, replace both cylinders and get new install kit with springs.  That way you know that both front brakes are 100%.  If it still pulls your problems are elsewhere. 

13j13, from your post, it sounds like you have not pulled the drums to check things out.  Since you have had problems from day one, you should check the parts in your brake drum first.  It really sounds like the shoes are not fitted to the drums properly.  I know how to check this, and could show you in 30 seconds, but I cannot explain it here.  If you are around the central Texas area, I will check it out for you.  I'm in Georgetown.
Drum brakes are really not that complicated, just most folks never trouble shot (shooted?) them.
Google Tiny Lund and see what speeds he was running his Fords at, what trophies he took, and what brakes he ran.
Good Luck

Thank you, Pablo. I appreciate all the information.
Got a bad cold. I've not started yet.

13james13 wrote:

When checking for brake pad movement should one side move first and then the other side or should they both move at the same time?

Anybody know?

You should always replace both sides at the same time.  At this point you have probably spent more than the cost of a used set of Granada discs.

13james13 wrote:

Yes, I'll replace the pads on the right...because they come in a set, left & right and that sounds better. I will say, its much better now.  What's the cost conversion over to Granada discs? Thanks Steve!