Would doing a similar longer adaptor that brought the tie rod closer to the center fix this. True in return you'd have to bring forward the rack a substantial amount but hey

I like that!! solves a lot of problems. It makes it possible for someone to get it right  without cutting and welding the arm. A lot of folks don't like the cut a weld approach, bit I have done several with no problems so far.

I don't really care for this other approach but hey whatcha gonna do. I know lots of hot rodders will heat and bend the arm to bring them in or out for they're app not ideal though. Me I liked the similar bump steer idea. It just this I seen a forum discussion about using gm rack but then taking it and enlongating the window chamber so the stops are more to where the stops end and this was don't on both galaxies and a 65 falcon. I like that idea the best. Another thing I think would help out when doing a swap I saw when I went to the auto Rama car show in slc Utah about a year ago, he had a 67 fast back that was finished with this and a project 64 1/2  she had modified her center link so it would bolt on to the rack and pinion this way you can see if the rack functions and pivots correctly. I personally like this because other kits aren't direct bolt ins and they either are pushed back or forward which I don't get cause that will affect geometry and give you bump steer. 

I know when the MII racks came out, some bozo put a cable on an early Mustang so he could mount one of those racks in a rear-steer configuration.  Even the magazine that published the picture said it was a joke.  I do not believe ANY car ever came with that as original equipment.

As for those bumpsteer clamp gizmos, those have been around long before Mustang R&P existed.  I suppose it will work to quicken the steering, but it only effectively lengthens the tie rod radius length by a slight amount.  It does put the tie rod in a more horizontal alignment on cars that have been lowered.  I have never tried one because I did not like the fact that they were bolting it to the original tapered tie rod hole in the spindle using a straight shank bolt.  For what they are charging for the kit, it should have a bolt with a taper that matches the hole in the tie rod.  The way it is, with slots on that u-shaped clamp, and a straight bolt going through a tapered hole, it looks like to me there would be a possibility they could shift around a bit.  Just my opinion.  Like I said, they have been around forever, and I guess if people had problems with them they would go away.  The problem is that most people are not tuned in enough to KNOW they are having a problem or not.