Yep!! What the "pony man" sez.^
IF the pin ain't long enough I used a cut down grade 8 bolt as an excellent substitute.
Jus say'in
6sal6

Is that the correct cam sprocket bolt? All of my oem and arp bolts are at least grade 8.

That is a grade 5 bolt, made in Canada. It is specific to the application and is plenty strong.

There were two length pins used by Ford, one for engines with a fuel pump eccentric (long), one for those without (short).  The short pin is 1.125".  I think the long pin is 1.250".

The factory bolt head is not much thinner than a standard parts store bolt.  Maybe a tiny amount, but nothing to worry about. 

The washer that comes with the ARP cam bolt is too thin.  Using it can allow the bolt to bottom before it tightens to the cam sprocket, and disaster can ensue.  I've always just reused the stock washer.  I keep a drawer of little stuff like that (crank keys, balancer bolts, cam plates, etc.).  Its always hard to track down, and has come in handy many times.

Be sure to use Locktite (red) on the cam bolt and cam retainer bolts.  Torque on the cam bolt is 40 lbs/ft., and 10 lbs/ft. on the retainer.  Make sure all the threads are clean and dry before applying Locktite.  Oil on the threads will keep it from doing its job. 

There's a lot of talk on the net about failures caused by bolts loosening, the dowel pin bending or shearing, etc.  I don't think its near as common as they claim.  If it was people would be marketing a "fix" for it.  Like everything else, take your time and use proper assembly techniques and you'll have hundreds of thousands of trouble free miles. 

Last edited by TKOPerformance (8/20/2018 6:28 PM)

Yuuuuup, I did the same thing on my 79 Buick. I overhauled the engine and sent my wife and kids to AZ from Dallas. The car quit on I-10 east of El Paso. My father in law wasn't very happy with me.