What TKO says...Plus:  If you are running a cam with very much timing (duration) there is going to be significant overlap when the intake and exh. valves are open at the same time.  At idle this makes for a lot of raw fuel getting into the exhaust.  You may be able to minimize that somewhat by adjusting the idle air bleeds but the the engine is still going to need enough fuel to run at idle and with a lumpy cam that means you need the idle circuits rich enough to accommodate the engine's needs after blowing a lot of raw fuel out the exhaust.

BB

Not trying to Be Rude or Abrasive with this statement, but I wasnt looking for what size carb advice.....I did state that the STENCH was the same across the board.....Putrid...

but for the sake of the conversation, I started with a 750DP (used rebuilt) when the Engine was overhauled and it was a BEAST.......
in my attempts to relieve myself of this Horrid Stink, I brought it to a VERY reputable and renowned Machine Shop......they recommended a 650DP, timed it, tuned it and slapped a $1200 bill and the instant I drove away I felt the car was different.....felt as if it were "Tired" compared to its former self......almost as if it were pulling a small trailer with modest weight....Case in Point, very much so noticeable Power Drop, and not to mention the Main Concern (Headache causing stink) remained......
I kept it as so while jumping through the other hoops to remove the smell and nothing worked.....after 2 summers of missing the Cars Former Glory I decided to rebuild a 800 just to try it and WHAMMO, she was alive again......hold onto the steering wheel, white knuckle kind of Alive.....

So this is why I have the over-kill Carb........I thought the same but for some reason this build wants 750+


So, do I change my jets front and back to something lower?  my FP is 6 or 7 bouncing between the two......

Last edited by M1Mustang69 (5/02/2019 12:30 AM)

TKOPerformance wrote:

You need to understand that trying to fix a tuning issue on a car via the internet it like trying to give someone a haircut over the phone.  We aren't there.  There are likely things that would be obvious in an environment where we could touch, smell, see, and hear the engine run.  We are limited to what we are being told.

Based on that I can tell you that fuel pressure of 7psi is absolute max for a Holley, and it would likely work better at more like 5.

It sounds like the shop either didn't get the car tuned right, or possibly TDC on your balancer is not really TDC (several reasons for this, fairly common problem with small Fords).  What you describe after they "tuned" it is almost certainly a timing issue, not a fueling issue.  
 

 
I agree with TKO on the timing thing. I've got a 289 with a 650 carb and Performer cam and manifold. I AM NOT A TUNING EXPERT. I tune mine the way I was taught better than 50 years ago. I connect a vacuume gage to the carb and dial the timing in to max vacuume. I had the "stink" like you discribed when I tuned it with a timing light. When I tuned it by vacuume in took care of the problem. That said I also agree that the carb is to big for a SBF and if properly tuned you may have gotten the same or better performance from a smaller carb.

Last edited by BillyC (5/02/2019 9:07 AM)

Before I fired her, my first ex wife once walked out into the garage while I was working on a car and said, "man, I sure like the smell of gasoline". I do miss that about her.

TKOPerformance wrote:

You need to understand that trying to fix a tuning issue on a car via the internet it like trying to give someone a haircut over the phone.  We aren't there.  There are likely things that would be obvious in an environment where we could touch, smell, see, and hear the engine run.  We are limited to what we are being told.

Based on that I can tell you that fuel pressure of 7psi is absolute max for a Holley, and it would likely work better at more like 5.

It sounds like the shop either didn't get the car tuned right, or possibly TDC on your balancer is not really TDC (several reasons for this, fairly common problem with small Fords).  What you describe after they "tuned" it is almost certainly a timing issue, not a fueling issue.  
 

josh-kebob wrote:

......"it's a no hesitation move, it's straight across".............

      Boom!...LOL 
 

Adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
Try laying some sheets of paper around the boot lid opening, close boot. Any you can pull out is indicative of a bad seal.
What do your plugs tell you? Gotta be rich.

Last edited by 50vert (5/04/2019 12:33 AM)

Another vote for the vacuum gauge.  I have an 82 GT.  just took off 2 bl and changed to a QuickFuel 4 barrel.  It has 4 corner vacuum adjusting screws.  I bought a cheap gauge off Amazon and used it for the first time.  

Started the car and it ran "fine".  Started adjusting the vacuum. Went from  14 inches to 21 inches of vacuum.  Now it runs really fine.  There is no gas smell at all.  

It is really simple to do.  QuickFuel has a couple of install videos that go thru how to do it.  If I can do it without any questions, anyone can!

 

50Vett and TKO :

I did check the Plugs, about 100's....I forgot to mention That has been part of my Process; TKO you must have nailed it cause they Always show up nearly perfect....I couldnt understand why until reading what you said....Didnt Know MSD had that effect!

we have had consistent crappy weather here in Southern Ontario (cloudy wet and rain) for a week now, next opportunity Im going to do the VAC GAUGE

thanks guys,
ill keep you posted
 

Thank you MS....I appreciate the Input tremendously....

may I ask for you to clarify what youre speaking of with the Air Horn and Filter stuff please.....My setup is custom, cause when I purchased the car the hood .had a whole cut in it......So I figured Id utilize this as a "Ram Air" type design and have a 7" filter sticking partially through it....the factory bottom half houses a second stick type filer and the large diameter Lip of the breather has a tall rubber seal to mate to the hood....I can send a photo when I figure out how to do so!....

Lastly, by using the "vac gauge" to get it Jetted Correctly as you stated, does this mean I decrease the jets and reset carb with Vac Gauge each time??  i think thats the method youre suggesting, but doesnt that still describe a guessing game until I get it correct?

many thanks,
Jeff

yes clearly confused TKO....thanks for clearing that up....

so does this mean I need to use both a vac. gauge and the Air/Fuel Mixture gauge????  how do I get my hands on one?
 

Alright so the Update:

~changed primaries to 67 and secondaries to 71 (before was 71/73)
---->I did notice less stench but that could be cause it was a tad windy and it was just moving the air so well???  but still once window is cracked you smell car, ESP on WOT....

~Adjusted the Mixture Screws, BUT, for some reason the Drivers SIde adjustment likes to be in!  It can run just fine Seated!?!?!  when turned out too far it sputters, but it was only 0.5-0.75 turns from being seated.

~from this test drive point the car now has the quick "Drop" when hard(er) accel. is done.....you know, what feels like a "quick kickdown"??......before it didnt not do that so need to figure out if thats fuel supply or Mixture....

~lastly i dont know if I bought the wrong Gauge for vacuum but it claimed it was a vacuum gauge.....I would like to send a video to someone if thats possible, but it does not drop to 0 when throttling.....actually the numbers increase....??

**I cant seem to uplaod any images....tried 2 browsers and both are not working (no option or select and add an image once its clicked)

Last edited by M1Mustang69 (5/08/2019 10:59 AM)