I paid around $250 for the installation in my '66 coupe.  I guess it really depends where you go.  I'm sure many won't want to do it and give a high number. 
Many on here will tell you to try to do it yourself, with a helper.

MustangSteve wrote:

Why not do it yourself?  No one, I mean NO ONE will take the time required to do it right the way it should be done, exceot YOU.  In order to do it RIGHT you have to remove the front and rear windows.
You can shortcut the job and just tuck the fabric up inside the rubber gasket, but it won't be right.

It is not hard work and you do not have to have any special talents.  You just have to have TIME to do it.

 The time I spent doing mine was definately worth $700.00. It turned out great, so that made it worth the effort! I also learned a lot about removing and installing front and back glass which I have had to do a couple of times since! Oh yea, the big talent required is patience!

When you get to doing it; Lot's of folks will tell you to us clothes pins to hold it in position as you install. I much prefer re-using old windlace, cut into 2-5 in wide sections. That and a nice sunny day to relax the headliner boxing creases.

Tubo

I chime in with windlace. It works great.

Little tip if you have not removed glass before. If you think it is due for rubber replacement or it has never been out, plan on replacing the rubber window gaskets. They are really cheap.

If you plan to replace the gaskets, rather than risk breaking the glass when removing it, cut the outer lip of the gasket off with a sharp knife first. This will expose the glass on the outside and it should pop out of the gasket easily with a little push from the inside. Once the window is out, you then just peel the gasket off the frame.

This is much easier then trying to unhook the gasket from inside and push the glass and gasket out of the opening together. The bonus is it also reduces the risk of breakage to almost nothing. A new gasket is cheap insurance.

From a shop's point of view, this is why it is so expensive:

First, skill and knowledge...one in 20 shops will even know how to do it

Second:  To do the job professionally and correctly, both front and back glass will have to be pulled.  Shops do not reuse gaskets.  It's too tricky to get the windows out of them without breaking and most owners have put pounds of silicone or other goop on them to make them stop leaking, so new gaskets are a must.  Again..skill and knowledge.  Most modern 'glass guys' will not touch the classics.  The shop owner has to sub-contract a classic glass guy or know how to do it himself **AND MAKE THE WINDOW LEAK FREE**  because the customer expects the window not to leak...and then find all the screw holes for that dang piece of trim between the window and the dash!  Gosh I hate that job...

The headliner has to be trimmed to fit...and trimmed close.  One slip and you get to buy a new one!

Finally, Speed.  The shop can do it in two or three days, wheras you have only evenings and weekends to work on it.  So you pay for the convenience of having someone else assume all the liability for the glass and materials and deliver to you a professional, near perfect product ....and your glass no longer leaks!

That all said, there really is no reason you can't do it yourself if you can have the car out of commission for a week (per the MS rule...read TWO weeks)  Use TONS of old windlace squeezed really tight and don't glue anything until it's properly in place...don't trim excess until it's all glued. The quarter part of the liner by the package tray has a place with metal tangs where you are supposed to wind the liner around two pieces of chipboard (?) to make the quarter tight.  I use paint sticks trimmed to fit..and leave all the screws in the hard to find coat hook holes and visor holes and you can poke them through from the finished side..otherwise finding the holes is difficult.  Don't use spray glue!!  Glue, and replace used bits of windlace..let dry and put it all back together.  Reinstall the windows with new gaskets and reseal against leaking (another topic for another thread)

Oh..and keep MS on speed dial....

Very good explanation from Deb. When I did the liner on my 68, I also recall that there were two short lengths of wire with hooks at either end that hook into holes at the top of the rear window cutout and around the aft hanger rod. The wire sets the proper location for the hanger rod so that all the other rods will have the correct location when the liner is stretched to fit. There were also two holes in the upper roof stringers (longerons, rails, outboard roof support channels??) that control how tight the rods will bow when the liner is stretched. You should also know that the rods are different lengths too. (I think mine were color coded).

Just take your time, stretch and fit before you glue, use lots of clamps. I used a hair dryer to help when stretching the liner into place and to get rid of wrinkles. I used some 3M contact cement and a small acid brush to apply the glue. Just follow Deb's instructions and you can do as good a job as most shops will do.

Good thread!
A quick question with regards to the wires that hold the bow in place, is it better to start from the rear then move forward or does it matter? 
Thanks